I'oledo 
Toledo was their northern strong¬ 
hold. The horseshoe arch through 
which one enters is surrounded by 
rough rubble stonework, which in 
the upper part runs into the beauti¬ 
ful interlacing patterns in brick, so 
characteristic of the Moorish work. 
Above are little projecting oriels, 
through which the defenders drop¬ 
ped hot lead or burning pitch down 
upon the besiegers’ heads. Capped 
by its splendid outline of crenel¬ 
lated battlements, it takes us vividly 
back to the days when the IMoors 
were not a myth, but a world power. 
Finally, clattering through the 
Plaza de Zocodover, we were wel¬ 
comed to the Fonda de Imperial by 
its proprietor, where we enjoyed 
Spanish cooking at the rate of ten 
pesetas per day. After dinner we 
sallied forth, sketching paraphernalia 
in hand, ready for work, d'he city 
is a perfect labyrinth of streets, blind 
alleys, narrow winding lanes as 
steep as a flight of steps, and in 
which one breathes the damp tomb¬ 
like air that is at first refreshintr to 
O 
one coming from under the hot rays 
of the sun. Not fortunate this first 
afternoon in our choice of a sidi- 
ject, we enjoyed looking about us, 
receiving impressions in a general 
way. A laughing crowd of natives 
attracted our attention, and we were 
as much amused as the rest, at the 
two masquerading as an English 
tourist and his wife. I'he man in a 
loud tweed suit, with a camera slung 
over his shoulder; the woman in 
a rough tourist rig, with a be¬ 
draggled effect to her whole costume, 
walked along entering shops, prtdng 
into things, asking all sorts of que.s- 
tions, to which when answered they 
replied, “/ do not understand d' 
Ready for bed after a supper of 
particularly good hsh and its accom¬ 
paniments, we found our bedroom (on the ground 
floor) faced the street, the large window having 
an iron grille. We asked the next day for a more 
retired room, and were given one in the rear with 
walls about fifteen feet high, having small windows 
ten feet up. ’ 1 is thus the Spaniard gains his 
reputation for hospitality; he is dignified, certainly, 
but always equal to the occasion. 
1 his being Sunday, we saw something of the 
church side of life: as one ought certainly to experi- 
enceThe religious atmosphere in a city which legend 
credits with having at one time possessed one hundred 
and ten churches. We visited first the Cathedral. 
Its architecture is Gothic, with good detail; its interior 
exceedingly impressive, satisfying one’s idea of what a 
sanctuary ought to be. 1 he cloister garth has been 
quite overgrown with plants and shrubs, with lux¬ 
uriant vines growing up over the tracery and iron 
grilles in the cloister arches: most charming in 
effect! 
15 
