48 
CALENDAR FOR FEBRUARY. 
rake, to cover it with about an inch of leaf-mould and sand, or 
any light compost; on this set the roots, and cover them with 
similar compost. The size of the bulbs will greatly exceed those 
inserted into stiff soil. Where they are grown, this is also the 
time to plant the underground or potato-onion; it is an excellent 
prolific variety, and a better keeper than is generally supposed, 
as it is far from being useless in the kitchen yet, if it has been 
kept thoroughly dry and in a cold place. Plant the middling¬ 
sized bulbs ; they will be ready to pull by Midsummer, when the 
seedling sorts will very likely be suffering from drought. 
Forward potatoes in pots in the frames or vinery, for turning 
out either in pits or out of doors when the weather is milder; 
also plant out of doors in sheltered spots, and get in the main 
crops by the end of the month, if the season is sufficiently open. 
Sow the seed of any of the early cabbages once or twice in the 
month, under protection as well as out of doors. A little cauli¬ 
flower and Cape brocoli should also be sown in pits for succession. 
In similar situations, also, the sowings of small salading should 
be continued at regular intervals, and the forcing of asparagus, 
sea-kale, rhubarb, and others, should be maintained according to 
the demand. Lettuce-seed should also be sown two or three 
times during the month, both on a sheltered border and also in 
frames, taking great care not to draw up the plants.' 
Dress up, manure, and dig the strawberry beds as quickly~as 
weather permits, and, if necessary, make new plantations. The 
same with the herb border, where the plants, if old, may be re¬ 
newed, or gaps filled up by using healthy-rooted slips from 
the old plants. New plantations of horseradish and Jerusalem 
artichokes may also be formed. 
If not already done, finish off all pruning as quick as possible 
before the buds advance too far, as, if left too late in the season, 
a backward and often comparatively poor crop is the result of 
having to shorten shoots where the uppermost and strongest 
buds are always the first to be excited. 
D. M. 
