The beauty 
treatment 
for floors 
Quickly, as you finish your 
floors with Old English Wax, 
a rich, velvety lustre appears; 
not a temporary polish, but a 
finish that stays — a hard, 
beautiful surface that does 
not scratch or show heel- 
marks. 
An occasional “touching 
up ” of the spots most walked 
on is the only upkeep neces¬ 
sary. Each year your floors 
will grow more mellow and 
beautiful. 
A new, easy way 
Of course, a soft cloth will 
always be a good way to apply 
wax and polish the floor. 
But with the Old English 
Waxer-Polisher, the work of 
waxing floors on hands and 
knees is made unnecessary. 
It waxes—and then polishes 
the floor. Easy as running a 
carpet-sweeper. The only de¬ 
vice of its kind. 
Send for your copy 
of this FREE book 
l.earn the secrets of beautiful 
floors, woodwork and furniture 
How to care for waxed floors 
How to care for varnished or 
shellaced floors 
How to prevent worn spots 
How to finish new floors 
How to “do over” old ones 
The proper way to clean and 
polish floors 
A new invention that saves 
time and work 
A special finish for linoleum 
floors 
How to preserve the beauty of 
your furniture 
rile care and finish for interior 
woodwork 
How to remove old varnish or 
shellac 
How to fill floor cracks 
How to prepare floors for 
dancing 
How to polish automobiles 
Estimates and general advice 
based on over 25 years of ex¬ 
perience-all will be found in 
this free book, a copy of 
which we are holding for you. 
Old English costs less 
Because it goes farther and 
lasts longer, the actual cost 
of using Old English Wax is 
about one-third, that of most 
other finishes. 
Paint, hardware, drug, 
house-furnishing or depart¬ 
ment stores sell Old English 
products. 
THE A. S. BOYLE COMPANY. 2101 Dana Avenue, Cincinnati. Ohio 
Canadian Factory: Toronto 
Manufacturers of wax finishes exclusively for over 25 years 
Free to you! « 
A can of Old English Wax free if ! 
you buy an Old English Waxer- I 
1 ohsher now. 1 his new labor-sav- I 
1 ng ae vice does two things-it waxes, S 
then polishes the floor. It’s a great i 
improvement over any weighted I 
brush, which does not apply the 1 
wax, but merely polishes. Lasts a • 
lifetime. If your dealer can’t supply I 
you, just mail the coupon NOW • 
The A. S. Boyle Company, 
2IOI Dana Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 
uLai me yo , ur T ee book > “Beautiful Floors 
Woodwork, and Furniture—Their Finish and 
W,v Se "p , m f’ 3,1 charges paid, an Old English 
Waxer-Pohsher with a can of Wax Free at the 
special t.me-limited price, £ 3.50 (Denver and 
So)^hkh C lTnc d . a osf 4 - SO; W j|' ;peR West ' 
Name. 
Address. 
(Continued from page 102) 
and all vital processes resolve them¬ 
selves in their final analysis into an 
unknown creative act for which the 
word “magic” is as good a word % 
any, that astral agencies may exercise 
a potent influence over flowers is not 
necessarily an absurd or superstitious 
suggestion. 
I hat one planet on which all our 
earth-life is dependant, namely the sun, 
is responsible for the coloration of 
flowers is a matter of quite rudimentary 
knowledge. So far as anything can 
be known, we know that the colors of 
the flowers come of their individual 
reception of the white light of the sun, 
each flower selecting or rejecting one or 
other of those spectral colors of which 
that white light is composed. “A red 
flower, for instance,” says a scientific 
authority, “absorbs the blue and green 
rays and most of the yellow, while the 
red rays and usually some yellow are 
scattered.” How the flower does it, 
and why, remains the flower’s secret. 
If the rays of one planet are thus 
absorbed and differentiated, why not 
the rays of others ? Why may there 
not be other influences, “waves” of 
other potencies, emanating from the 
planets, charging the flowers with other 
of their qualities, such as their perfume, 
their form, their dynamic properties of 
sustenance, stimulus or poison, their 
“enmity to blood of man”, or the 
friendly alleviations they bring to his 
nerves, their mysterious powers to 
soothe, to inspire, to madden or to 
destroy ? 
With their roots in the earth, their 
faces to the sky, strange little alembics, 
alchemising sunlight and dew and the 
soil in which they grow, why may they 
r°m 3 S °T^i ChemlSe starIi S ht and moon- 
fight? Why may they not draw from 
them fairy essences, catching in their 
little cups trans-lunary ichors of im¬ 
mortality, and translating into cabalis¬ 
tic iorms of a loveliness which we feel 
to be unearthly the spheral music, the 
timeless reverie and dream of the radi¬ 
ant, brooding Infinite? 
Though they grow upon the earth, 
we cannot but feel that they came from 
heaven, and that old Culpepper was 
not so far astray when he said that 
“he who would know the reason or the 
operation of the herbs must look up 
as high as the stars.” 
LIME FOR SOIL ENRICHMENT 
T IS a well known fact that vege- 
tables require a coarse, open, and 
friable soil. For that reason, sandy or 
loamy soils are generally selected for 
vegetable crops because of their nat¬ 
ural suitability. 
The ordinary home-owner cannot 
select his soil, but must make the best 
use of the land in his backyard, whether 
it is suitable or unadapted to the re¬ 
quirements for very sensitive vegetable 
plants. 
Circumstances then require that the 
home gardener make the best of 
conditions through artificial means. He 
must make a loose, friable soil out of 
a heavy stubborn one. There are var¬ 
ious forces he can marshal, the com¬ 
bined influence of which will give the 
desirable physical condition in his soil. 
One of the common aids to this end is 
the mixing of coal ashes with the soil 
at the time of spading. A second very 
potent force is the natural action of al¬ 
ternate freezing and thawing. A third 
is one at his command, and is a very 
forceful agent in rendering soils friable, 
namely, the use of lime. 
Burnt forms of lime, of which the 
hydrated lime—obtainable at the build¬ 
ing supply dealer—it is the most conve¬ 
nient to use, has the power of crum¬ 
bling the soil structure, and making the 
garden area take on the apparent prop¬ 
erties of a sandy class of soil. At the 
same time that it gives these desirable 
physical qualities, the lime also creates 
in the soil favorable chemical and bio¬ 
logical conditions to which most vege¬ 
table crops respond, both in yield and 
quality. 
John A. Slipiier 
How to Prepare the Soil 
(Continued from page 80 ) 
fibrous roots did remarkably well. I 
remember especially the fine growth the 
viburnums and cornels and euonymus 
made. All kinds of roses, like the sweet 
brier and the wild varieties, were very 
lovely too. But trees never got a start; 
even the cedars near the house never 
were really happy and all plants that 
searched for food beneath this layer 
of soil found their roots penetrating 
into the salt sand. When their roots 
came in contact with salt water when¬ 
ever there was an unusually high tide, 
they remained stunted and starved 
looking, and died after a short struggle 
for existence. 
When money for soil became more 
and more restricted, attempts were 
made to put the plants in little pockets 
of soil—to start on as it were—but these 
plants, too, remained starved and 
dwarfed when they lived at all and the 
windbreaks that they should have made 
were never achieved. 
In ordinary soils, however, this idea 
1 of enriching the soil immediately around 
the roots of the plants by placing a 
little manure mixed with good soil at 
the bottom of each hole is not a had 
idea. What it saves in topsoil and 
manure is not always commensurate, 
however, with the extra time and labor 
and superintendence required by this 
kind of planting. It is better to spread 
a layer of manure over the planting 
area and plough or fork it in. Bone- 
meal and wood ashes can be added to 
this mixture. About one pound to 
every SO square feet will be enough for 
a heavy soil. Sand can be added in 
small quantities for a too heavy soil. 
One and a half yards of sand will be a 
conservative estimate for a border ten 
feet wide by a hundred feet long. To 
all this preliminary work you can then 
add some extra good top soil—about 
three yards for the same area above 
mentioned. This can be spread over 
the entire area or dumped in piles and 
used as required when the planting is 
done. 
I his is the preparation recommended 
for the common run of nursery stock—• 
for shrubs and trees of ordinary nur¬ 
sery sizes. The smaller and younger 
the plants the easier of course, they will 
adapt themselves to moving and new 
(Continued on page 108 ) 
