TTT 
House & Garden 
Flowering Trees and Shrubs 
of Oriental Splendor 
W HERE a large tree is not desirable, or an ever¬ 
green may be too formal, flowering shrubs will be 
ideal. So, too, groups and combinations will be found 
preferable wherever such an arrangement is possible. 
The species and varieties grown by Outpost Nur¬ 
series and here offered, are extremely rare and difficult 
to obtain. They are choice and beautiful specimens, 
and must not be confused with ordinary stock. 
One each of These Seven Trees and Shrubs 
Extra fine specimens (7 in all) for $20.00 
JAPANESE WEEPING 
CHERRY (Cerasus avium 
roseo pendula). Produces 
a strong Japanese effect 
with crooked drooping 
branches. Beautiful pink 
or rose flowers. Excellent 
for backgrounds. 6 foot 
specimens $5 each. 
JAPANESE FLOWERING 
CRAB APPLE (Pyrus 
floribunda). Literally cov¬ 
ered in spring with fra¬ 
grant pink flowers of rare 
charm. Extremely orna¬ 
mental, very hardy and 
desirable as specimens or 
in the border. Strong spec¬ 
imens, 4 to 5 feet, $1.50 
each. 
JAPANESE DOGWOOD 
(Cornus Kousa). A Jap¬ 
anese counterpart of our 
own Cornus Florida. In the 
Japanese species the ber¬ 
ries are united in a flushed 
strawberry-shaped mass. 
The leaves are small, the 
flower heads borne on a 
slender pedicle. Blooms 
about the end of May 
when the tree is in full 
foliage. Strong speci¬ 
mens 4 to 5 feet, $2.60 
each. 
RED-FLOWERING DOG¬ 
WOOD (Cornus florida 
rubra). Similar to the 
White flowering variety, 
but with red blooms. A 
rare species and difficult 
to obtain. Strong speci¬ 
mens, 5 to 6 feet, $6 each. 
WHITE-FLOWERING 
DOGWOOD (Cornus flori¬ 
da alba). Myriads of white 
blossoms followed by scar¬ 
let fruits in the fall. Up¬ 
right growth, branching 
closely to the ground. May 
be trimmed to formal 
shapes. Strong specimens, 
5 to 6 feet, $5 each. 
DOUBLE WHITE-FLOW¬ 
ERING PEACH (Prunus 
persica alba). Tree rather 
irregular in form, useful 
as a specimen or in the 
border. Flowers pure 
white, double and about 
an inch and a half in di¬ 
ameter. Strong specimens, 
5 to 6 feet, $2 each. 
DOUBLE RED-FLOWER¬ 
ING PEACH (Prunus per¬ 
sica rubra). Similar to 
the preceding but with un¬ 
usually handsome red 
flowers. Strong speci¬ 
mens, 5 to 6 feet. $2 each. 
T HESE flowering shrubs represent only a small part 
of the remarkable collection at Outpost Nurseries. We 
shall be glad to have you come to the Nurseries and get 
acquainted with our resources, quality of the stock and 
the care given to its growth. If you cannot visit us. write 
us about your home or estate and we will gladly give 
suggestions and advice for landscape planning. 
New illustrated catalogue sent on request 
Outpost Nurseries 
Danbury Road Ridgefield, Conn- 
Relating the House to Its Site 
(Continued, from page 142) 
hand as sketching in profiles of possible 
houses on the prints. 
Above all, the prospective builder 
should not feel that the selection of the 
site is such an easy matter that he need 
not consult with his architect about it. 
The architect, from the nature of his 
training, is quick and accurate at visu¬ 
alizing, and can see in his mind’s eye 
very nearly the exact appearance of 
this house on that site, or that house 
on this site. It is part of his work, and 
a service which he will always be very 
glad to render. 
If the property is of any considerable 
extent, and at all diversified in charac¬ 
ter, with an intention of planning 
drives on it, gardens, tennis court, 
garage and so forth, it is often the 
practice to have made a topographical 
survey, which will show, at scale, all 
the grades and contours. From this 
survey a scale model can be made of 
clay or plaster, and every feature of an 
estate can be planned in miniature be¬ 
fore a spade of earth is turned on the 
actual work. This is in many ways 
an ideal method of studying the re¬ 
lationship of the house to its site, for 
the effect, when a scale model of the 
house is placed on the scale model 
of the site, can be seen from all angles, 
often disclosing things to the lay mind 
HOW TO MAKE 
M ANY times one has a special 
grape or other vine from which 
they would like to make cuttings 
either to increase the home supply or 
to share with a neighbor or friend. 
Vines are increased by rooting “cut¬ 
tings” of the “canes”. Canes are the 
mature growth of the current year; 
while cuttings are pieces of these canes, 
usually from 10 ” to 18” long. 
The best wood for cuttings is of 
medium size and with moderately short 
joints. 
The outer bark should be a clear 
yellow or purple brown, according to 
the variety and without dark 
blotches. When the cane is cut with 
a sharp knife the inner bark should 
appear green and full of sap, and 
the pith of moderate size, clear, firm 
and light colored. 
Cuttings are best if made within a 
week or two after the fall of the 
leaves, but, if the vines are healthy and 
the wood well matured, they may be 
made at any time from the fall of 
the leaves until a week before the 
starting of the buds in spring. 
Cuttings of from half an inch to 
one-third of an inch in diameter are 
best, and they should not be more than 
one inch at the butt, nor less than 
one-quarter of an inch at the top. 
The shorter they are the better pro¬ 
vided they can be made to root. In 
good soil with special care cuttings 
8 inches long do very well. Usually 
10 to 12 inches is better. For direct 
planting in the garden they should be 15 
to 18 inches. The looser and drier 
the soil and the hotter the climate the 
longer they should be. In wet, heavy 
soil in the cooler regions short cut¬ 
tings are preferable. 
The base of the cutting should be as 
close as possible to a bud, providing 
the cross partition is left. If a pithy 
piece of wood is left at the base the 
cutting does not heal over when it 
roots and is apt to decay. At the 
top of the cutting about three-quarters 
of an inch should be left above the 
uppermost bud. 
Heat and water are necessary to 
that are not to be grasped in a draw¬ 
ing that indicates but two dimensions. 
A site may always be changed or 
modified in the immediate surround¬ 
ings of a house by means of grading 
and planting—but much as these 
means accomplish, they will usually 
fail to conceal a fundamentally wrong 
relationship of house to site. Above 
all else, the profile is the most import¬ 
ant consideration. It governs the 
mass, or the grouping of masses that 
compose the house, and is the funda¬ 
mental upon which all else depends. 
Style as a factor in the relationship of 
the house to site is a different sort 
of consideration, and applies only 
when the term “site” is meant to desig¬ 
nate a kind of existing community 
rather than a topographical condition. 
The two should never be confused, and 
there is no real reason for doing so. 
Fortunately the site which imposes a 
certain style of house seldom possesses 
dominating topographical traits which 
would make such a house wrong in 
profile, and in the cases where the 
site possesses salient features of hill or 
crag which would and should dictate 
its profile, there is no stylistic restric¬ 
tion—and “all things work together 
for good”—if they are intelligently 
analysed and definitely visualized. 
VINE CUTTINGS 
start either roots or buds. We can 
delay either by keeping the cuttings 
dry and cool or hasten either by keep¬ 
ing them moist and warm. 
The cuttings as soon as made are 
buried in sand with the butts up and 
all at the same level. When they are 
all buried, three or four inches of sand 
should be placed over the butts of the 
cuttings, making a perfectly level bed. 
To protect the cuttings from mois¬ 
ture and heat so as to keep them 
dormant the sand should then be well 
covered with 12 " or 18" of loose 
straw, weeds or similar material. 
Two or three weeks before planting 
time the straw covering should be 
removed and the 4" top layer of 
sand thoroughly moistened by sprink¬ 
ling. The moisture and the heat from 
the sun will then start the process of 
root formation. The sand must be 
closely watched and sprinkled as often 
as is necessary to prevent drying, only 
enough water being used to moisten 
the top layer of sand. 
After seven to ten days the butts of 
the cuttings should be examined every 
few days. As soon as they show signs 
of white healing tissue (callus) and 
checking of the joint where the roots 
are forming, they are ready to plant. 
Planting should not be delayed until 
roots appear, as these roots will be de¬ 
stroyed in planting and others will have 
to form. 
The cuttings, should be planted with 
the second bud level with the ground, 
that is, with one full joint above the 
surface. The soil should be firmed 
around the butts and unless quite 
moist, settled with water when the 
trench is about three-quarters full. The 
soil should then be brought up around 
the cuttings by hand almost to the top 
bud. 
Watering should be relatively fre¬ 
quent during the first part of the sea¬ 
son so as to start growth early and 
keep it going until the vines have 
made a top growth of 12 inches or 
more and have developed a good root 
system that will make them less sensi¬ 
tive to drying out. 
