118 
House & Garden 
THIS BOOK ON HOME 
BEAUTIFYING-FREE 
c 'Jhe 
PROPERTREATMENT 
for 
floors.woodwork 
and 
furniture 
c JOHNSON £-SON 
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racne.wi*. «•••*■ 
This Book Tells 
How to make your home artistic, 
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How to put and keep floors, wood¬ 
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How to finish soft and hard 
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How to fill unsightly, germ- 
catching cracks. 
How to stain wood artistically. 
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With this outfit—a weighted polishing brush and a 1 lb. can 
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Are You Building? 
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useful, for it tells how to finish inexpensive soft woods so 
they are as beautiful and artistic as hardwood. Tells what 
materials to use—includes color card—gives covering capa¬ 
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Our Individual Advice Department will give a prompt and 
expert answer to all questions on interior wood finishing— 
without cost or obligation. 
We will gladly send this book free and postpaid for the name 
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Outfit for $3 
S. C. JOHNSON & SON, Dept. H. G. 5, Racine, Wis. : 
“The Wood Finishing Authorities” | 
Please send me free and postpaid the Johnson ; 
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Summer and Autumn Vegetables 
(Continued, from page 88) 
to us, is as a rule quite reprehensible. 
In order to get the best results in 
second cropping, we should wait till 
the first crop has vacated the space, 
then dig up the ground, and fer¬ 
tilize it again as in early spring. If 
seeds are planted on ground thus pre¬ 
pared for a second crop, a larger per¬ 
centage of the seeds will germinate, and 
both the plants from these seeds and 
also plants transplanted into the gar¬ 
den for a second crop will withstand 
better the summer and autumn droughts 
and return a crop to the gardener much 
more abundant and of far superior 
quality, than that raised on ground not 
thoroughly prepared the second time. 
The importance of a second thorough 
preparation of the ground for the sec¬ 
ond planting cannot be too strongly 
emphasized. 
Some may feel such amateur garden¬ 
ing as this is a hard task. The answer 
is plain. As the old masters have en¬ 
circled the heads of the saints whom 
they painted with a beautiful halo, 
which attracts and holds us, despite the 
efforts of any one to inject doubts into 
our minds as to its reality, so there is 
a halo around gardening, which draws 
and keeps him who really has the love 
of a garden in his heart, and no hard 
work which his garden requires can dis¬ 
pel this halo. 
This seed planting requires careful 
work to insure a fair percentage of 
germination, especially of the smaller 
seeds, because, as the summer advances, 
the surface soil generally lacks the 
moisture of the spring season when our 
first crop plantings were made. When 
we plant small seeds for our second 
crop in shallow drills, we should first 
press the seeds firmly into the soil with 
the back of our garden rake, then draw 
a little soil over the seeds and make 
this very firm with our feet or the 
back of our hoe blade, and lastly draw 
a little more soil over the seeds, leav¬ 
ing this covering loose. The compact¬ 
ing of the soil about the seeds draws 
the moisture from below up to their 
level, and the loose final covering pre¬ 
vents this moisture from passing off. 
Seeds should be planted a little deeper 
in summer than in early spring and the 
soil around them made firmer. 
WHAT FOLLOWS WHAT 
The problem of crop rotation has 
many solutions, and the following is 
offered as only one of them: Where 
the earliest radishes, lettuce and turnips 
grew, since these will all be pulled May 
10 to May 25, tomato, pepper, mid¬ 
season cabbage, eggplant and summer 
lettuce plants may be set out, or lima 
beans, string beans, summer bush, 
squash, and early, mid-season, and late 
Sweet Corn may be planted. The early 
garden peas and onions from sets will 
have been harvested by July 4. Where 
these were, we may set out celery 
plants, not forgetting that this is a 
gross feeder and that an abundance of 
fertilizer should be put into the soil 
where it is set out, as with late cabbage 
and cauliflower plants also. The spin¬ 
ach will be over in early July, and beets 
for autumn and winter use may be 
sown in its place. In the space occupied 
by the early cabbage, cauliflower and 
beets, all of which will have been 
gathered between mid-June and mid- 
July, dwarf green curled Scotch kale 
and Brussels sprouts may be set out. 
Snap beans are always a standby as a 
second crop and can be used as such at 
any date up to Aug. 1. Between the 
hills of early sweet corn, though its 
ears have not all been gathered, winter 
squash seeds may be planted, and the 
corn may be pulled up after all the ears 
have been gathered. In any space va¬ 
cated by a first crop in the last half of 
July, white milan, or purple top strap 
leaf turnips or white queen or early 
barletta onion seed, to produce small 
pickling onions in late Autumn, may be 
sown. 
FOR SUMMER AND AUTUMN 
Other amateur gardeners may prefer 
other varieties of vegetables than those 
which our list comprises, but we have 
tried these and found them excellent. 
Beans: Bush Snap, Stringless Green 
Pod, Stringless Bountiful, Improved 
Golden Wax; Brittle Wax, Pencil Pod, 
Black Wax; Bush Lima, Extra Early 
Leviathan, Carpenteria; Pole Beans 
(not Limas), Old Homestead (Green 
Podded), Kentucky Wonder Wax. Beets: 
Crosby’s Early Egyptian. Brussels 
sprouts: Sutton’s, Dalkeith. Cabbage: 
Succession, Late Flat Dutch, Drum¬ 
head, Savoy, Red Dutch. Carrots: 
Chantenav, Danvers Half Long. Cel¬ 
ery: White Plume, Golden Self Blanch¬ 
ing. Sweet Corn: Golden Bantam, 
Golden Rod, Howling Mob, Metropoli¬ 
tan, Stowell’s Evergreen. Cucumbers: 
Davis’ Perfect, Improved White Spine, 
Fordhook Pickling. Egg Plant: New 
York Improved Spineless, Black Beau¬ 
ty. Endive: Broad Leaved Batavian. 
Herbs: Thyme, Summer Savoy, Tarra¬ 
gon. Kale: Scotch Green Curled. Leek: 
Large American Flag. Lettuce: Mam¬ 
moth Black-Seeded, Butter, Hanson 
Improved, Iceberg. Onions: South- 
port White or Yellow Globe, Red Weth¬ 
ersfield. Okra: White Velvet. Parsnips: 
Hollow Crown. Pepper: Ruby King, 
Cayenne. Peas: Telephone. Potatoes: 
Irish Cobbler, Russet. Pumpkins: 
Cheese, Winter Luxury. Salsify: Mam¬ 
moth Sandwich Island. Spinach: New 
Zealand. Squash: Golden Custard, 
Giant Summer Crook, Delicious. To¬ 
mato: John Baer, Chalk’s Early Jew¬ 
el, Crimson Cushion, Golden Ponderosa. 
TIMES OF PLANTING 
The time of planting varies with the 
latitude, but in that of New York City 
the following dates are approximately 
correct. Successive plantings of bush 
beans may be made from May 10 till 
July 25; and of bush and pole lima 
and other pole beans from May 15 to 
June 15. Beets, chard, and carrots 
from earliest spring up to July 1. 
Sweet corn, early, mid-season and late 
may all be planted in the period be¬ 
tween May 10 to June 15, and the 
extra-early varieties up to July 10. We 
plant our cucumbers from May 15 to 
July 1. Endive for early to very late 
autumn crops is set out from June 15 
to Aug. 15; okra is planted about May 
20 to June 10; all garden herbs in late 
April or early May. Onions, parsnips, 
late peas as well as early, both early 
and late potatoes, spring and summer 
spinach also, salsify and leeks, as early 
in the spring as possible, the last in a 
sheltered location to be transplanted 
when about six inches high into pre¬ 
pared trenches, about 6" deep, of rich 
soil. To provide lettuce for use 
throughout the summer, and autumn (a 
very difficult proposition in this latitude 
where in summer it runs to seed so 
quickly) several sowings and trans¬ 
plantings extending' over the period be¬ 
tween May 15 and Aug. 1 should be 
made. 
Instead of sowing seeds of Brussel 
sprouts, celery, cabbage, cauliflower, 
egg plant, kale, leek, pepper, tomafo, 
and lettuce directly in the garden rows 
(Continued on page 120) 
