CULTURE OF THE CAMELLIA. 
149 
degree of heat somewhat more than is usually given to green¬ 
house plants, which may be obtained by keeping the house 
pretty close, and then they will expand their blossoms, and 
grow freely; but where a succession of flower is wanted during 
the winter, fire-heat is the only means through which it may 
be accomplished, and very successful results may be insured if 
attention is given to the proper regulation of the heat. I would 
recommend to begin in November with a heat of 50° or 55°, 
not letting the thermometer exceed 60° with sun heat: with this 
heat they will require a liberal supply of water, with syringing 
two or three times a week to refresh and keep the plants 
clean; but when the flowers begin to expand, refrain from 
syringing, damp the house night and morning to keep a moist 
heat; sprinkle the flues or pipes occasionally, when they are 
only warm, for, if done too hot, the steam will prove injurious. 
If the plants in flower have been removed to a show house or 
conservatory, and are off flower before the beginning of Feb¬ 
ruary, remove them to a cold house to make room for others 
in flower, and about the middle or beginning of February re¬ 
move them into a stove or forcing-house, and force them to 
make their wood and flower-buds, for this is the best time for 
forcing the Camellia: they will stand a great heat at this 
season, providing they are liberally supplied with water ; and I 
would recommend syringing at this time. When they have 
formed their flower-buds, remove them into a greenhouse, 
where they may have air freely to harden them off, and in a 
week or ten days, if the season is not too much advanced, re¬ 
move them out of doors, there to remain till the beginning of 
September, which is late enough for the Camellia to remain out 
of doors, as they are likely to be injured with too much wet. 
At this time remove them into a house or structure of some 
kind, where they may have air freely supplied to them, and 
protection from heavy rains or bad weather; and then, at your 
leisure, you may replace them in their winter apartments. 
Small plants do remarkably well in pits, the walls banked up 
with earth and the glasses covered with litter, in the same way 
that Ericas are preserved during the winter. Where there is 
a bottom made for them, some sorts, such as the double white, 
red, striped, blush, and paeony flowered, answer very well 
when planted in the bed or border of a conservatory, provided 
the roof can be partly or wholly removed in summer, to admit 
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