208 
BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 
Budding should be performed in the open air, according to 
the state of the plants, between Midsummer and the end of 
autumn. In the majority of cases, where the subjects will fur¬ 
nish buds, we prefer to do it at a later period than is usual; say, 
from the middle or end of August till the same part of the fol¬ 
lowing month ; and for this reason, taking the rose as an example, 
when buds are inserted in June or the early part of July, as is 
frequently recommended, immediately the union is effected they 
begin to grow, and in the course of August often attain a length 
of one or two feet, and at this time occur our violent autumnal 
gales. Should these new growths be subject to their action, the 
chances are, that the finest are blown out—severed completely 
from the imperfect hold they have yet attained; nor will the 
utmost attention at all times secure them. On the other hand, 
buds which are inserted at an after period remain dormant. They 
do not grow, but gradually and firmly extend their hold of the 
stock, and in the following spring break with a vigour far sur¬ 
passing the others. They are in the mean time safe from every 
peril, and will be found to “take” with more certainty, as they 
are not subject to the drying influence of the scorching July sun, 
so frequently fatal to the earlier buds. 
The operation of budding is performed in the following manner: 
a thin-bladed knife, made very sharp and having a flat haft or 
handle, together with strips of moistened bast, are required, the 
first to form the bud and incision, and to assist in placing it, 
and the latter to secure it when in its proper position. 
The branch from which the buds are to be taken being at hand 
(and it should always be observed to have the buds fresh and 
vigorous), with the blade of the knife make a cut of about an 
inch and a half in length down the bark of the stock, where the 
bud is intended to be placed, allowing the knife to go just through 
the bark, without injuring the wood beneath it. A cross cut 
should be made about half an inch from the upper end of the 
former, and then, with the flat haft of the knife, it will be easy 
to raise the bark along the sides of the cut to receive the bud. 
The latter is prepared by entering the knife about an inch below 
the eye, and drawing it evenly upwards till it comes out a little 
above the eye, taking care to cut the “ shield,” or piece of bark 
adhering to the bud, as thin as possible. It is by some thought 
