120 
THE FLORIST’S JOURNAL. 
formitv of appearance, and tbe natural or geographical grouping 
of the plants; these should all be attended to and made to bear 
one on the other, as far as may be found practicable. 
Young plants of Dahlias should be placed in the open air to 
prepare them for planting out, which may be done by the middle 
or end of the month. Cuttings may still be taken of scarce 
sorts, where the conveniences for forcing have not been at hand, 
and the roots kept dry for planting, it may now be done. 
Auriculas should be frequently watered in small quantities ; a 
mild shower of rain is beneficial to plants not in flower; the 
blooms must be protected from the sun and rain, as we advised 
last month; as soon as the plants have done blooming, remove 
them to a cool shaded place. Carefully attend to the blooms of 
Picottees, Carnations, Pinks, &c.; as they advance, they should 
be secured to the stakes ; traps should be set for earwigs; if green 
fly appear on them, a little snuff blown sharply on them will ge¬ 
nerally kill them with one or two applications. By the middle of 
the month the awning may be placed over the Tulips, though it 
should not be used but in severe weather, until the blooms begin 
to expand ; transplant all sorts of annuals, and sow again if re¬ 
quired; water those removed if the weather proves dry. Cuttings 
may be taken of double wall-flowers, Lychnis, Canterbury Bells, 
and other perennials ; these strike readily under a common hand¬ 
glass ; half-hardy plants may be turned into their respective 
places. Balsams and other tender annuals should be frequently 
repotted; keep up a brisk heat for them ; give them air and water 
as they require it. Pansies may still be struck. Ranunculus 
should have a regular supply of water in xlry weather. Pot off 
cuttings of Chrysanthemus as soon as struck, as all other cut¬ 
tings. Keep the walk free from weeds; grass will now require 
mowing; rake the beds and borders, and make everything neat 
as far as possible. 
