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THE FLORIST’S JOURNAL. 
of them. In short I have selected only those which from their 
uniformity in habits may generally be grown in the same bed, or 
at least subject to the same treatment, and consequently so 
much the less trouble will attend the culture of them. 
With these preliminary observations I enter on their general 
cultivation—one of the most essential parts of which is the pro¬ 
per adaptation of the soil. That which I have found most suited 
to them is a mixture of light rich vegetable mould and good peat 
earth, in about equal quantities, adding about a fourth of the 
whole of turfy loam and fine white sand; this last article should 
be in proportion as the soil may be porous or otherwise: suffi¬ 
cient should be used to keep the whole mass pervious to the heat 
of the sun in the early part of the season, and to allow the su¬ 
perfluous rains to drain off. 
The proportions of the other constituents may be varied a little 
according to the respective qualities, but what I have mentioned 
may be called the mean of each. I am aware that these kind 
of recipes are, by those who profess to be learned on the subject, 
sometimes termed empirical; but I would ask, how are we to 
convey a practical idea of the various soils necessary to form a 
required whole but by this method ?-—always leaving the culti¬ 
vator to form his own judgment as to the precise quantity or 
quality of each. Cape bulbs may be grown either in beds as 
permanent objects, or in pots for occasional ornamenting. For 
the first the bed should be prepared early in March, by removing 
the earth to the depth of about fifteen or eighteen inches, to allow 
for an effective drainage to be formed by strewing the bottom 
over with rough stones to the depth of about three inches, over 
which should be laid a stratum of fresh turf to prevent the soil 
falling between the stones ; this drainage is not always neces¬ 
sary when the soil is naturally light and porous, but in heavy 
soils it is indispensable; the situation too should be made con¬ 
ducive to this end, if possible; a gentle rise and fully exposed to 
the sun is the best I have found. When the bed is formed, the 
soil (as before recommended) should be laid in to the depth of 
eight or ten inches, or till within two inches of the intended sur¬ 
face, mixing and breaking it fine with the spade. When filled 
to the required height it should be raked level, and the roots 
planted, allowing the smaller kinds about four inches’ space be¬ 
tween each root, and the larger ones about six; the remaining 
