AUGUSTA, GEORGIA.’^^ j 
Hints for Planters 
Time for Planting —In this climate, vegetation, al¬ 
though inactive in winter for the formation of leaves 
and new wood, is never so as to new roots. A tree 
transplanted in the early winter will, by the ensuing 
spring, have grown sufficient new roots to give it a firm 
hold in the ground, and will grow off rapidly when active 
vegetation commences. Plant as early after the first 
killing frost as practicable, although hardy stock can be 
safely transplanted any time during the winter when 
the ground is not wet or frozen. Planting can be con¬ 
tinued until the middle of March, or until just before 
the buds begin to swell. 
Preparation of the Soil — The most desirable soil for 
fruit trees is a rich loam, naturally dry or made so by 
drainage. Peaches and plums imist be planted on high, 
well-drained soil. Before planting, prepare the land by 
thoroughly plowing and subsoiling, first using a two- 
horse plow, followed by a subsoil plow. Lay off the rows 
at required distances, and dig holes at least two feet 
wide and two feet deep; fill the holes by breaking in the 
sides, commencing at the bottom and going upward. 
Use surface soil in filling up, and with this mix one or 
two shovelfuls of thoroughly decomposed barnyard ma¬ 
nure. or use one or two pounds of good bone meal. All 
fertilizers must be thoroughly incorporated with the soil. 
Avoid the contact of the roots with heating manures. 
We strongly advocate digging holes with dynamite 
whenever feasible. 
Preparation of Trees and How to Plant — Before plant¬ 
ing. remove the broken roots; cut back one-year peach, 
apple, pear, cherry and plum trees to a naked stem 1 % 
to 2 Vo feet high, leaving no side branches. Two-year-old 
trees should have their branches cut back to half their 
length or less; the lower limbs less than those above, 
cutting in shorter as you go upward, leaving the leader 
the longest. (For pruning peach trees, see page 11). 
The tree should be set about 2 inches deeper than it 
stood in the nursery. 
Cultivation—You cannot expect to get good results 
from your trees unless you keep them well cultivated. 
The soil must be frequently stirred during summer. The 
area immediately around the trees must be kept free 
from grass and weeds, and this portion of the orchard 
should receive especial attention. All suckers or branches 
which start below the head of the tree should be removed. 
For the first two years cultivate the orchard during 
summer in some crop suited to the location, such as cot¬ 
ton, vegetables, melons, peas, peanuts, velvet or soy 
beans, giving the preference to leguminous crops. Never 
plant corn or small grain in your orchard. 
It is always advisable to sow in th*d fall a cover crop, 
such as clover, vetch or rye, using a suitable fertilizer. 
Turn under this cover crop in early spring. When soils 
are deficient in lime and potash, supply this deficiency 
with an application of lime, bone meal, hardwood ashes 
or high grade commercial fertilizer, as the soil requires. 
Satisfactory results cannot be expected unless the or¬ 
chard is supplied with the proper plant food and receives 
careful cultivation. 
Selection of Trees—For this climate, experience has 
taught us that one and two-year-old trees of thrifty 
growth (except peaches, only one-year trees of which 
should be planted) are the most desirable. Purchasers 
should bear in mind that such trees can be removed 
from the nursery with all their roots, whereas a four 
or five-year-old tree cannot be taken up without cutting 
away a large portion of them. Success in transplanting 
is increased according as attention is paid in selecting 
well-rooted trees, instead of heavily-branched ones. Give 
as many sound roots and as little head to a tree as pos¬ 
sible. 
Care of the Trees on Arrival—If not ready to plant 
on arrival, unpack without exposing the roots to cold or 
air; dig a trench, and heel-in by carefully covering the 
roots with earth, and give a copious watering. Trees 
thus treated can remain in the trenches until ready for 
planting in the orchard. If frozen when received, do not 
open the boxes, but place them in a cellar or some cool, 
dark room that is free from frost, and let them remain 
until all frost is drawn out. If no cellar or frost-proof 
room, bury the box in sawdust or dirt until thawed. The 
point is to get the frost entirely out without sudden ex¬ 
posure of stock to heat, light or air. Even if frozen solid, 
the stock will not be injured if handled in this manner. 
Injurious Insects and Fungus Diseases 
We only enumerate the most abundant and destructive 
insects and fungus diseases which infest our orchards 
and gardens. The remedies as suggested are in accord¬ 
ance with the latest recommendations of the leading 
Entomologists. 
Previous to spraying during the dormant season all 
trees and plants should be properly pruned. The proper 
time for applying spray solutions cannot be given exactly 
in this calendar. Allowances for difference in climatic 
and weather conditions between different localities must 
be considered. The orchardist should familiarize him¬ 
self with the habits and life history of the different in¬ 
sects and diseases, in order that he may apply to his 
particular locality and conditions the necessary measures. 
APPLES. 
Apple Worm (Coddling Moth)—Spray with two pounds 
of Standard Arsenate of Lead, three pounds of lime to 
each fifty gallons of water; first when the buds open, 
just before blooming: second, so soon as the petals fall 
and before the calyx closes; third, three weeks later; 
fourth, about ten weeks after the petals fall. 
When the time comes for using the third spraying, 
Bordeaux Mixture should be combined with one and 
one-half pounds of Arsenate of Lead. The Bordeaux 
Mixture is used at this time to prevent Bitter Rot and 
other fungus diseases. 
Apple Tree Blight—Same treatment as recommended 
for Pear Blight. 
Bitter Rot—Use Lime-Sulpliur Solution one and one- 
fourth gallons, two pounds of Arsenate of Lead to each 
fifty gallons of water. Spray as soon as petals fall. 
Give a second application of this same mixture three or 
four weeks after petals fall: then about eight weeks after 
petals fall use Bordeaux Mixture. (4~4‘50) with the ad¬ 
dition of two pounds Arsenate of Lead, and repeat this 
latter spraying every two weeks until four applications 
of same have been given. 
Borer — Keep orchard free from litter and examine 
trees regularly for borers. Their presence will be indi¬ 
cated bv sawdust at the entance of their burrows. Re¬ 
move, if near the surface, by means of a knife or wire. 
For those that have entered to a considerable depth 
inject, by means of a medicine dropper, a small quantity 
of carbon bi-sulphide in their excavation and seal se¬ 
curely with putty or wax. 
Canker Worm— Encircle the tree with a canvas belt 
thoroughly coated with tar: also spray with arsenate of 
lead as soon as worms appear; two pounds of arsenate 
of lead, three pounds of lime to fifty gallons of water. 
If necessary repeat in three or four days. 
Caterpillar — Destroy nests as soon as they appear in 
the spring by burning, or spraying with two pounds of 
arsenate of lead, three pounds of lime to fifty gallons 
of water. 
Cedar Rust —Use seven pounds of atomic sulphur, two 
pounds of arsenate of lead to each fifty gallons of water. 
Spray the trees at the same period as recommended for 
Scab. 
Green or Black Aphis— Spray with Black Leaf 40 at 
the rate of one part to two or three parts of water, as 
soon as the Aphis appear. 
San Jose Scale—For dormant spraying, use Thomsen 
Chemical Company’s lime-sulphur solution mixed at the 
rate of one gallon to eight gallons of water. Spray as 
early in the fall as trees are dormant, and again later in 
February and early March if the orchard is badly in¬ 
fested. For summer would suggest spraying with kero¬ 
sene emulsion, one part of the emulsion to five parts 
of water. 
