GENERAL INFORMATION 
3 
FUMIGATION. —We fumigate our stock with hydrocyanic acid gas before shipping, as re¬ 
quired by state law, so that assurance of freedom from insects or diseases of any kind is made 
doubly sure. 
NUMBER OF TREES OR PLANTS ON AN ACRE AT GIVEN DISTANCES APART 
Distance apart 
O 
6 
£ 
Distance apart 
3 
o 
o 
Distance apart 
No. of 
each way 
plants 
each way 
plants 
each way 
plants 
1 foot . 
.43,560 
8 feet . 
. 680 
18 feet. 
. 134 
2 feet . 
.10,890 
9 feet . 
. 537 
20 feet.. 
. 10S 
3 feet . 
. 4,840 
10 feet . 
. 435 
25 feet. 
. 70 
4 feet . 
. 2,722 
12 feet . 
. 302 
30 feet. 
. 48 
5 feet . 
. 1,742 
13 feet . 
2 ”'2 
35 feet. 
. 35 
6 feet . 
. 1,210 
15 feet . 
. 193 
40 feet. 
. 27 
7 feet . 
. 888 
16 feet . 
. 1*0 
General Information for Planters 
PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.—Tha most desirable soil for fruit trees is a rich loam, naturally dry or 
made so by drainage. Before planting prepare the land by thoroughly plowing and subsoiling, first using a 
2-horse plow, followed by a subsoil plow. Lay off the rows at required distances, and dig holes at least 2 
feet wide and 2 feet deep; fill the holes by breaking in the sides, commencing a£ the bottom and going up¬ 
ward. Use surface soil in filling up, and with this mix a shovelful or two of cotton seed and stable manure 
compost, well decomposed, or about one pound of bone meal. Avoid the contact of the roots with heating 
manure. 
SELECTION OF TREES.—For this climate, experience has taught us that one and two-year-old trees of 
thrifty growth are the most desirable. Purchasers should bear in mind that such trees can be removed from 
the nursery with all their roots, whereas a 4 or 5-year-old tree cannot be taken up without cutting away a 
large portion of them. Success in transplanting is increased according as attention is paid in selecting well- 
rooted trees, instead of heavily-branched ones. Give as many sound roots, and as little head to a tree as 
possible. 
PREPARATION OF TREES. — Before planting remove the broken roots, cut back one-year peach, apple and 
plum trees to a naked stem to 2 V6 feet high, leaving no side branches. Two-year-ola trees should have 
their branches cut back to half their length, or less; the lower limbs less than those above, cutting in shorter 
as you go upward, leaving the leader the longest. (For pruning peach trees, see Page 8.) Plant about 
1 inch deeper than the tree originally stood in the nursery row. 
TIME FOR PLANTING.—In this climate, vegetation, although inactive in winter for the formation of 
leaves and new wood, is never so as to new roots. A tree transplanted in November or December will bv 
the ensuing spring have formed sufficient new roots to give it a firm hold in the ground, and will grow off 
rapidly when active vegetation commences. Plant as early after the first killing frost as practicable. 
Do not delay it until the spring months. Apple trees can be transplanted here as late as March, and in some 
seasons the first of April, but success is increased if the planting has been done in the fall or early winter. 
AFTER-CULTURE—FOR GARDENS. Keep the soil free from grass and weeds, and stir frequently during 
the summer. Remove all suckers and branches which start below the head of the tree. Mulching is advisable 
for trees planted late in the spring. 
FOR ORCHARDS. Drill in cow-peas in May or June or keep the ground planted in cotton, vegetables 
or melons. Leave at least 4 feet between trees and crop. Cultivate frequently until middle of August. Do 
not plant corn or small-grained crops in your orchard if soil is of light character, but for stiff soils devoid of 
vegetable matter, sow rye, scarlet clover or barley in /all, using a suitable commercial fertilizer; turn under 
in spring and drill in peas as above directed. If devoid of lime or potash, supply the deficiency by a top 
dressing of bone meal, plaster or good commercial fertilizer. 
To insure a healthy growth of fruit trees, the land should be kept well supplied with plant-food. Lands 
exhausted by years of cropping cannot return a crop of fruit unless the trees are well cultivated and regu¬ 
larly fertilized. 
CARE OF TREES ON ARRIVAL. — If not ready to plant on arrival, unpack without exposing the roots to 
cold or air, dig a trench, and heel-in by carefully covering the roots with earth, and give a copious watering. 
Trees thus treated can remain in the trenches until reaay for their permanent places in the orchard. If 
frozen when received, bury the trees without unpacking in well-drained ground, or place in a cool cellar 
until thawed, without exposure fo air or light. 
Injurious Insects 
The rapid increase of insects injurious to fruit and fruit trees necessarily compels the horticulturist to 
obtain a knowledge of their habits, that he may provide means to oppose their ravages; otherwise he must 
remain at their mercy, and find that paying crops become more and more uncertain. The limits of this ••ntalog 
allow only space for the enumeration of the most destructive and abundant species which infest the orchards 
and vineyards, and the best remedies us suggested by leading entomologists. The following remedies ace com¬ 
piled from the latest recommendations of the % most prominent entomologists and pathologists: 
APPLES 
APPLE WORM (Carpocapsa pomonella>, or COD¬ 
LING-MOTH. Spray with Par. z green at the rate 
of 6 ounces to 50 gallons of water or Bordeaux mix¬ 
ture after the blossoms have fallen, and before the 
calyx lobes close. Repeat in one week. It is gen¬ 
erally conceded that earlier or later spraying than 
mentioned above are of no value against the first 
brood, when dealing with the codling-moth. It is 
necessary, therefore, to spray just after the petals 
fall and before the calyx lobes close, in order to fill 
this cup with poison at the only time it is possible 
to do so. A second brood of apple worms appear 
from the middle to the last of June, in Georgia— 
later farther north—and spraying for this brood is 
advisable in many cases. As* a general rule, spray the 
last week in June, and again two weeks later, with 
Bordeaux-Paris green mixture. Bordeaux not being 
strictly an insecticide, does not act against the cod¬ 
ling-moth, but it is always well to use it with Paris 
green to prevent apple scab or other fungous diseases. 
BORER (Saperda Candida.) Examine trees in spring 
and again in June and dig out the grubs with a wire. 
Then wash the collar of roots and parts of the body 
with a mixture of lime and sulphur. 
CATERPILLAR (Clisiocampa Americana). Destroy 
nests as soon as they appear in spring by burning, 
or spray with Paris green 8 ozs., lime 1 lb., water 50 
ga SPRING CANKER WORM (Paleacrita vernata). 
Encircle the tree with a canvas belt coated thoroughly 
with tar or train oil; or spray with 6 ounces Paris 
green and 1 lb. lime to 50 gallons Bordeaux or water. 
WOOLLY APHIS (Schizoneura lanigera). For 
above-ground colonies, wash trees with solution of 
whale-oil soap or kerosene emulsion. For root-inhabit¬ 
ing colonies, remove the soil to a depth of about 3 
inches, or sufficient to partially expose the roots; 
open a circle from 4 to 8 feet in diameter, depending 
on the spread of the roots, distribute three to eight 
pounds of tobacco dust or use 15 per cent kerosene 
