Pink Cherokee Roses 
oses at Fruitland Nurseries 
The Rose has been hailed as the “Queen of Flowers” by all nations, and right royally she holds her 
sway as the favorite flower of people of every age, from the little child about the home to the gray-haired 
gardener who loves his plants with an affection akin to worship. In our Southland one expects to see Roses, 
but the stranger is hardly prepared for the lavish display of color, and the prominent place and devoted 
attention given to these plants in all good gardens. 
Here at Fruitland Nurseries we have Rose plants inallstagesof growth, from the little cuttingsin beds 
of sand to the sturdy well-rooted specimens that are ready to be transplanted to your garden and reward 
your care with an abundance of bloom. These little cuttings furnish the Rose plants that are grown on 
their “own roots.” 
In another section of the Nurseries we grow our “budded Roses.” These are plants budded on Manetti 
stocks. It is almost impossible to grow some varieties from cuttings, and unless they could be continued 
by the budding process their cultivation would have to be discontinued. For warm climates, budded 
Roses are more suitable, too, than “own-root” plants, for the roots penetrate the soil to a greater depth 
in search of food and moisture. 
The soil at Fruitland Nurseries seems to be especially adapted to Rose-growing, and our one-year 
plants equal the two-year plants of many northern and western growers. 
All varieties listed in this catalogue are tried in our grounds; and you will find sorts that are not listed, 
for we have many on probation. We must know that all are good growers and free bloomers before we offer 
them to our customers. A good many of the new sorts fail to stand our tests and are discarded. 
DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING, PRUNING. AND FERTILIZING ROSES 
Almost any good garden soil, which is well drained, is suitable for Roses, but it must be well broken 
up and put in good condition before planting. It should be well fertilized with decomposed stable manure, 
bone meal, or a high-grade commercial fertilizer. Be sure that the fertilizer is thoroughly incorporated 
with the soil. Never plant Roses under large trees, or where the ground is taken up by the roots of adjacent 
trees. If you want to get good Roses, keep the ground free from grass and weeds, and thoroughly cultivated 
in summer. A mulching in the fall with stable manure or leaf-mold is beneficial. During the growing 
season a small amount of bone meal or liquid manure, applied at intervals of a month or six weeks will 
give beneficial results. 
When Planting, cut off all but two or three of the strongest branches, and cut these back to 3 to 6 
inches, according to the vigor of the plants. Unless Roses are cut back severely when planted, there is danger 
of loss, and, furthermore, these cut-back plants will produce finer flowers. The holes in which the plants 
are to be set should be of ample size. You cannot expect good results from Roses improperly planted. 
Pruning. After the first killing frost, or when the Roses are thoroughly matured, two-thirds of the 
past year’s growth should be cut off. As a general rule, the more vigorous the variety, the less it should be 
pruned. Remove all decayed wood, and when pruning cut off close to the main stems or limbs, and do not 
leave ragged or jagged stems, as these will decay and injure the plant. Climbing Roses should have only 
their side branches shortened in. Do not disturb the main stem. Of course, all weak and spindling growth 
should be removed. 
We frequently receive complaints from our patrons, who order late in the spring, in which they state, that 
the flowers produced are inferior and do not come up to description. It should be understood that perfect 
flowers cannot be had when the plants are set out late in February or March, and which produce blooms 
before they are well established. But if these plants are allowed to grow until the following fall, and if they 
receive the proper treatment as to pruning, fertilization and cultivation, there will be no cause for complaint. 
Insects. For aphis, thrips, and other insects infesting Roses, spray plants with a solution of Sulpho- 
Tobacco soap; or a two per cent solution of lime-sulphur; or Tobacco water, using four ounces of tobacco- 
stems to one gallon of boiling water; strain the solution and add four ounces of soft soap while it is still 
hot; stir well to dissolve the soap. 
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