AUGUSTA, GEORGIA 
Hints to Planters 
Time for Planting:—In this climate, vegetation, al¬ 
though inactive in winter for the formation of leaves 
and new wood, is never so as to new roots. A tree 
transplanted in the early winter will, by the ensuing 
spring, have grown sufficient new roots to give it a 
firm hold in the ground, and will grow off rapidly 
wnen active vegetation commences. Plant as early 
after the first killing frost as practicable, although 
hardy stock can be safely transplanted any time dur¬ 
ing the winter when the ground is not too wet or 
frozen. Planting can be continued until the middle 
of March, or until just before the buds begin to 
swell. 
Preparation of the Soil — The most desirable soil 
for fruit trees is a rich loam, naturally dry or made 
so by drainage. Peaches and plums must be planted 
on high, well-drained soil. Before planting, prepare 
the land by thoroughly plowing and subsoiling, first 
using a two-horse plow, followed by a sub-soil plow. 
Lay off the rows at required distances, and dig holes 
at least two feet wide and two feet deep; till the 
holes by breaking in the sides, commencing at the 
bottom and going upward. Use surface soil in fill¬ 
ing up, and with this mix one or two, shovelsful of 
thoroughly decomposed barnyard manure, or use 
one or two pounds of good bone meal. All fertil¬ 
izers must be thoroughly incorporated with the soil. 
Avoid the contact of the roots with heating manures. 
We strongly advocate digging holes with dyna¬ 
mite whenever feasible. 
Preparation of Trees and How to Plant—Before 
planting, remove the broken roots; cut back one-year 
peach, apple, pear, cherry and plum trees to a naked 
stem 1 % to 2% feet high, leaving no side branches. 
Two-year-old trees should have their branches cut 
back to half their length or less; the lower limbs 
less than those above, cutting in shorter as you go 
upward, leaving the leader the longest. For pruning 
peach trees, see page 8. The tree should be set 
about 2 inches deeper than it stood in the nursery. 
Cultivation—You cannot expect to get good results 
from your trees unless you keep them well cultivated. 
The soil must be frequently stirred during summer. 
The area immediately around the trees must be kept 
free from grass and weeds, and this portion of the 
orchard should receive especial attention. All suck¬ 
ers or branches which start below the head of the 
tree should be removed. For the first two years cul¬ 
tivate the orchard during summer in some crop suit¬ 
ed to the location, such as cotton, vegetables, melons, 
peas, peanuts, velvet or soy beans, giving the pre¬ 
ference to leguminous crops. Never plant corn or 
small grain in your orchard. 
It is always advisable to sow in the fall a cover 
crop, such as clover, vetch or rye, using a suitable 
fertilizer. Turn under this cover crop in early 
spring. When soils are deficient in lime and potash, 
supply this deficiency with an application of lime, 
bone meal, hardwood ashes or high grade commercial 
fertilizer, as the soil requires. Satisfactory results 
cannot be expected unless the orchard is supplied 
with the proper plant food and receives careful cul¬ 
tivation. 
Selection of Trees—For this climate, experience has 
taught us that one and two-year-old trees or thrifty 
growth (except peaches, only one-year trees of which 
should be planted) are the most desirable. Purchas¬ 
ers should bear in mind that such trees can be re¬ 
moved from the nursery with all their roots, where¬ 
as, a four- or five-year old tree cannot be taken up 
without cutting away a large portion of them. Suc¬ 
cess in transplanting is increased according as at¬ 
tention is paid in selecting well-rooted trees, instead 
of heavily-branched ones. Give as many sound 
roots and as little head to a tree as possible. 
Care of the Trees on Arrival—If not ready to plant 
on arrival, unpack without exposing the roots to cold 
or air; dig a trench, and heel-in by carefully cover¬ 
ing the roots with earth, and give a copious water¬ 
ing. Trees thus treated can remain in the trenches 
until ready for planting in the orchard. If frozen 
when received, do not open the boxes, but place them 
in a cellar or some cool, dark room that is free from 
frost, and let them remain until all frost is drawn 
out. If no cellar or frost-proof room, bury the box 
in sawdust or dirt until thawed. The point is to get 
the frost entirely out without sudden exposure of 
stock t«ji heat, light or air. Even if frozen solid, the 
stock will not be injured if handled in this manner. 
Injurious Insects and Fungus Diseases 
We only enumerate the most abundant and de¬ 
structive insects and fungus diseases which infest 
our orchards and gardens. The remedies as sug¬ 
gested are in accordance with the latest recommen¬ 
dations of the leading Entomologists. 
Previous to spraying during the dormant season 
all trees and plants should be properly pruned. The 
proper time for applying spray solutions cannot be 
given exactly in this calendar. Allowances for dif¬ 
ference in climatic and weather conditions between 
diffrent localities must be considered. The orchard- 
ist should familiarize himself with the habits and 
life history of the different insects and diseases, in 
order that he may apply to his particular locality 
and conditions the necessary measures. 
APPLES 
Apple Worm (Coddling Moth) — Spray with two 
pounds of Standard Arsenate of Lead, three pounds 
of lime to each fifty gallons of water; first, so soon 
as the petals fall and before the calyx closes; second, 
two weeks later; third, about eight weeks after the 
petals fall. 
When the time comes for using the third spraying, 
Bordeux Mixture should be combined with one and 
one-half pounds of Arsenate of Lead. The Bordeaux 
Mixture (4-4-50) is used at this time to prevent Bit¬ 
ter Rot and other fungus diseases. 
Apple Tree Blight — Same treatment as recom¬ 
mended for Pear Blight. 
Bitter Rot—Use Lime-Sulphur Solution one and 
one-fourth gallons, two pounds of Arsenate of Lead 
to each fifty gallons of water. Spray as son as 
petals fall. Give a second application of this same 
mixture three or four weeks after petals fall; then 
about eight weeks after petals fall use Bordeaux Mix¬ 
ture (4-4-50)) with the addition of two pounds Arse¬ 
nate of Lead, and repeat this latter spraying every 
two weeks until four applications of same have been 
given. 
Borer—Keep orchard free from litter and examine 
trees regularly for borers. Their presence will be 
indicated by sawdust at the entrance of their bur¬ 
rows. Remove, if near the surface, by means of a 
knife or wire. For those that have entered to a con¬ 
siderable depth inject, by means of medicine drop¬ 
per, a small quantity of carbon bi-sulphide in their 
excavation and seal securely with putty or wax. 
Canker Worm—Encircle the tree with a canvas belt 
thoroughly coated with tar; also spray with arsenate 
of lead as soon as worms appear; two pounds of 
arsenate of lead, three pounds of lime to fifty gal¬ 
lons of water. If necessary repeat in three or four 
days. 
Caterpillar—Destroy nests as soon as they appear 
in the spring by burning, or spraying with tw'o 
pounds of arsenate of lead, three pounds of lime to 
fifty gallons of water. 
Cedar Rust—Use seven-pounds of atomic sulphur, 
two pounds of arsenate of lead to each fifty gallons 
of w'ater. Spray the trees at the same period as re¬ 
commended for Scab. 
Green or Black Aphis—Spray with Black Leaf 40 at 
the rate of one part to 200 or 300 parts of w’ater, as 
soon a sthe Aphis appear. 
San Jose Scale—For dormant spraying, use Thom¬ 
sen Chemical Company’s lime-sulphur solution mixed 
at the rate of one gallon to eight gallons of water. 
Spray as early in the fall as trees are dormant, and 
