AUGUSTA, GEORGIA 
Roses 
All of the roses described in this catalogue have been thoroughly tested. We try out annually all of 
the leading new sorts, many of which will never appear in our catalogue, as they failed to measure up to 
our standard. Before sending roses to our clients we must be assured that the are good growers and free 
bloomers. Of course, some roses will give better results in certain localities than others, and some of the 
forcing roses will not stand in open ground, and vice-versa. Strong, field-grown roses have always been 
one of our specialties. For many years our roses have been noted for their sturdiness and unsual vigor. 
Roses grown at Augusta are giving splendid results in Canada and other cold sections. 
Our soil is especially adapted to developing the rose properly. Our one-year, field-grown plants equal 
the average two-year, field grown plants of the North and West. All of our roses are grown on own roots. 
No garden, it matters not how small, is complete without roses, and every landscape scheme should be 
provided with a place for the rose. 
DIRECTIONS FOR GROWING ROSES 
Soil and Preparation of Same—The rose will adapt itself to almost any well-drained soil, but will give 
best results when planted in a good, rich, deep loam which has been thoroughly drained and well fertilized. 
If, however, the soil is thin and sandy it is advisable to add a good proportion of heavy soil. It is best to 
plant roses in an open, sunny place where the plants will be exposed to a full light. Never plant roses un¬ 
der large trees or where the ground is taken up by the roots of adjacent trees. You can never expect to 
get good results unless the ground is kept free from grass and weeds and thoroughly cultivated. A mulch¬ 
ing of straw, leaf mold, leaves, or thoroughly rotted cow manure is beneficial. During the growing season 
it is advisable to fertilize roses from to time, using bone meal, well-rotted cow manure or liquid manure, 
apply at intervals of a month or six weeks. So soon as the fertilizer is applied it should be worked into 
the soil. 
Never use a spade in rose bed, but use a digging fork, this is less likely to cause injury to the roots. 
After the beds have been cultivated, rake the surface smooth and even. Frequent stirring of the surface is 
beneficial. A top dressing of hardwood ashes is excellent. 
Planting — We cannot emphasize too greatly the necessity of pruning all roses before transplanting. All 
weak growth should be cut out, leaving only the stoutest and most vigorous shoots, and these must be cut 
back to within 3 to G inches of the ground. Of course, the length to which these branches are to be cut 
back depends upon the vigor of the plant. The hole in which the plants are to be set must be of ample size. 
Place the plant in the hole about 1 inch deeper than it stood in the nursery row, provided it is on its own 
roots. Budded roses should have the budded portion set 2 to 3 inches below the level. Fill the hole half¬ 
full of soil, pour in water, let this settle, put in some more earth, firm this well about the roots, then fill in 
the hole and firm when the job is completed. 
Water the plants whenever needed, and keep the soil well cultivated. 
Pruning — This should not be done too early in the winter in this section. We have found from experi¬ 
ence that if roses are trimmed before January 1st, they sometimes, during warm winters, start an early 
growth, and consequently the plants are killed by the heavy frosts in February. About two-thirds of the 
past year’s growth should be cut off, and all of the small, weak shoots and all decayed wood cut out. 
When pruning cut close to an eye or to the main stem of the plant. Do not leave ragged or jagged stems, 
as these decay and injure the plants. The more vigorous the variety the loss it should be pruned. Climb¬ 
ing roses should have only their side branches shortened in. Do not disturb the main stem. 
Note — The pruning directions in the above paragraph refer to roses which have been planted more than 
a year. 
We frequently receive complaints from our patrons who order late in the spring. They state that the 
flowers produced are inferior and do not come up to description. It should be understood that perfect flow¬ 
ers cannot be had when the plants are set out late in February or March, and which produce blooms be¬ 
fore they are well established. But if these plants are allowed to grow until the following fall and receive 
the proper treatment as to pruning, fertilization and cultivation, there will be no cause for complaint. 
Note—The letter following each Rose denotes th • class to which it belongs: (T) Tea, (H. T.) Hybrid 
Tea, (C) China, (H. P.) Hybrid Perpetual, (N) Noisette. (P) Polyantha. (R.) Rugosa, (W.) Wichuraiana, 
(B.) Bourbon. 
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