P.J.BER CKMANS COT 
Hints for Planters 
Time for Planting—In this cliniat#, vegetation, al¬ 
though inactive in winter for the formation of leaves 
and new wood, is never so as to new roots. A tree 
transplanted in the early _ winter will, by the ensuing 
spring, have grown sufficient new roots to give it a 
firm hold in the ground, and will grow off rapidly when 
active vegetation commences. Plant as early after the 
first killing frost as practicable, although hardy stock 
can be safely transplanted any time during the winter 
when the ground is not too wet or frozen. Planting 
can be continued until the middle of March, or until 
just before the buds begin to swell. 
Preparation of the Soil—The most desirable soil for 
fruit trees is a rich loam, naturally dry or made so by 
drainage. Peaches and plums must be planted on 
high, well-drained soil. Before planting, prepare the 
land by thoroughly plowing and subsoiling, first using 
a two-horse plow, followed by a subsoil plow. Lay 
off the rows at required distances, and dig holes at least 
two feet wide and two feet deep; fill the holes by 
breaking in the sides, commencing at the bottom and 
going upward. Use surface soil in filling up. and 
with this mix one or two shovelfuls of thoroughly de- 
comimsed barnyard manure, or use one or two pounds 
of good bone meal. All fertilizers must be thoroughly 
incorimrated with the soil. Avoid the contact of the 
roots with heating manures. 
Wo strongly advocate digging holes with dynamite 
whenever feasible. 
Preparation of Trees and How to Plant—Before 
planting, remove the broken roofs; cut back one-year 
peach, apple, pear, cherry and plum trees to a naked 
stem 1 to 2% feet high, leaving no side branches. 
Two-year-old trees should have their branches cut 
back to half their length or less; the lower limbs less 
than those above, cutting in shorter as you go upward, 
leaving the leader the longest. (For pruning peach 
trees, see page 12). The tree should be set about 2 
inches deeper than it stood in the nursery. 
Cultivation—You cannot expect to get good results 
from your trees unless you keep them well cultivated. 
The soil must be frequently stirred during summer. The 
area immediately around the trees must be kept free 
from grass and weeds, and this portion of the orchard 
should receive especial attention. All suckers or 
branches which start below the head of the tree should 
be removed. For the first two years cultivate the or¬ 
chard during summer in some crop suited to the lo¬ 
cation, such as cotton, vegetables, melons, peas, pea¬ 
nuts, velvet or soy beans, giving the preference to legu¬ 
minous crops. Never plant corn or small grain in your 
orchard. 
It is always advisable to sow in the fall a cover crop, 
such as clover, vetch or rye. using a suitable fertilizer. 
Turn under this cover crop in early spring. When soils 
are deficient in lime and potash, supply this deficiency 
with an application of lime, bone meal, hardwood ashes 
or high grade commercial fertilizer, as the soil requires. 
Satisfactory results cannot be expected unless the or¬ 
chard is supplied with the proper plant food and re¬ 
ceives careful cultivation. 
Selection of Trees—For this climate, experience has 
taught us that one and two year-old trees of thrifty 
growth (except peaches, only one-year trees of which 
should be planted) are the most desirable. Purchasers 
should bear in mind that such trees can be removed 
from the nursery with all their roots, whereas a four- 
or five-year-old tree cannot be taken up without cutting 
away a large portion of them. Success in transplanting 
is increased according as attention is paid in selecting 
well-rooted trees, instead of heavily-branched ones. 
Give as many sound roots and as little head to a tree 
as possible. 
Care of the Trees on Arrival—If not ready to plant 
on arrival, unpack without exposing the roots to cold or 
air; dig a trench, and heel-in by carefully covering the 
roots with earth, and give a copious watering. Trees 
thus treated can remain in the trenches until ready for 
planting in the orchard. If frozen when received, do 
not open the boxes, but place them in a cellar or some 
cool, dark room that is free from frost, and let them 
remain until all frost is drawn out. If no cellar or 
frost-proof room, bury the box in sawdust or dirt until 
thawed. The point is to get the frost entirely out with¬ 
out sudden exposure of stock to heat, light or air. 
Even if frozen solid, the stock will not be injured if 
handled in this manner. 
Injurious Insects and Fungus Diseases 
We only enumerate the most abundant and destruct¬ 
ive insects and fungus diseases which infest our or¬ 
chards and gardens. The remedies as suggested are in 
accordance with the latest recommendations of the 
leading Entomologists. 
Previous to spraying during the dormant season all 
trees and plants should be properly pruned. The proper 
time for applying spray solutions cannot be given ex¬ 
actly in this calendar. Allowances for difference in 
climatic and weather conditions between different lo¬ 
calities must be considered. The orchardist should fa¬ 
miliarize himself with the habits and life history of the 
different insects and diseases, in order that he may ap¬ 
ply to his particular locality and conditions the nec¬ 
essary measures. 
APPLES. 
Apple Worm (Coddling Moth)—Spray with two 
pounds of Standard Arsenate of Lepd, three pounds of 
lime to each fifty gallons of water: first, so soon as 
' the petals fall and before the calyx closes; second, two 
weeks later; third, about eight weeks after the petals 
fall. 
When the time comes for using the third spraying. 
Bordeaux Mixture should be combined with one and 
one-half pounds of Arsenate of Lead. The Bordeaux 
Mixture (4-4-50) is used at this time to prevent Bitter 
Rot and other fungus diseases. 
Apple Tree Blight — Same treatment as recommended 
for Pear Blight. 
Bitter Rot—Use Lime-Sulphur Solution one and one- 
fourth gallons, two pounds of Arsenate of Lead to each 
fifty gallons of water. Spray as soon as petals fall. 
Give a second application of this same mixture three or 
four weeks after petals fall; then about eight weeks 
after petals fall use Bordeaux Mixture (4-4-50) with 
the addition of two pounds Arsenate of Lead, and repeat 
this latter spraying every two weeks until four appli¬ 
cations of same have been given. 
Borer—Keep orchard free from litter and examine 
trees regularly for borers. Their presence will be indi¬ 
cated bv sawdust at the entrance of their burrows. Re¬ 
move. if near the surface, by means of a knife or wire. 
For those that have entered to a considerable depth 
inject, by means of a medicine dropper, a small quantity 
of carbon bi-sulphide in their excavation and seal se¬ 
curely with putty or wax. 
Canker Worm—Encircle the tree with a canvas belt 
thoroughly coated with tar; also spray with arsenate of 
lead as soon as worms appear; two pounds of arsenate 
of lead, three pounds of lime to fifty gallons of water. 
If necessary repeat in three or four days. 
Caterpillar—Destroy nests as soon as they appear in 
the spring by burning, or spraying with two pounds of 
arsenate of lead, three pounds of lime to fifty gallons 
of water. 
Cedar Rust—Use seven pounds of atomic sulphur, two 
pounds of'arsenate of lead to each fifty gallons of water. 
Spray the trees at the same period as recommended for 
Scab. 
Green or Black Aphis—Spray with Black Leaf 40 at 
the rate of one part to 200 or 300 parts of water, as 
soon as the Aphis appear. 
San Jose Scale—For dormant spraying, use Thomsen 
Chemical Company’s lime-sulphur solution mixed at the 
rate of one gallon to eight gallons of water. Spray as 
early in the fall ns trees are dormant, and again later in 
February or early March if the orchard is badly in¬ 
fested. For summer would suggest spraying with kero- 
seno emulsion, one part of the emulsion to five parts of 
water. 
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