AUGUSTA, GEORGIA.'*^^ 
one of our specialties. For many years our roses have been noted for their sturdiness and unusual vigor. 
Roses grown at Augusta are giving splendid results in Canada and other cold sections. 
Our soil is especially adapted to developing the rose properly. Our one year, field-grown plants equal the 
average two-year, field-grown plants of the North and West. 
No garden, it matters not how small, is complete without roses, and every landscape scheme should be pro¬ 
vided with a place for the rose. 
We grow roses on own roots, also budded on Manetti. Some varieties of roses do not give satisfactory 
results unless budded. These budded roses are especially desirable for Florida and sub-tropical sections, as their 
roots penetrate the soil to a greater depth than the own root plants. 
DIRECTIONS FOR GROWING ROSES. 
Soil and Preparation of Same. — The rose will adapt itself to almost any well-drained soil, but will give best 
results when planted in a good, rich, deep loam which has been thoroughly drained and well fertilized. If, 
however, the soil is thin and sandy it is advisable to add a good proportion of heavy soil. It is best to plant 
roses in an open, sunny place where the plants will be exposed to a full light. Never plant roses under 
large trees or where the ground is taken up by the roots of adjacent trees. You can never expect to get 
good results unless the ground is kept free from grass and weeds and thoroughly cultivated. A mulching of 
straw, leaf mold, leaves, or thoroughly rotted cow manure is beneficial. During the growing season it is 
advisable to fertilize roses from time to time, using bone meal, well-rotted cow manure or liquid manure, apply 
at intervals of a month or six weeks. So soon as the fertilizer is applied it should be worked into the sou. 
Never use a spade in rose bed. but use a digging fork, as this is less likely to cause injury to the roots. 
After the beds have been cultivated, rake the surface smooth and even. Frequent stirring of the surface is 
beneficial. A top dressing of hardwood ashes is excellent. 
Planting. — We cannot emphasize too greatly the necessity of pruning all roses before transplanting. All 
weak growth should be cut out, leaving only the stoutest and most vigorous shoots, and these must be cut back to 
within 3 to 6 inches of the ground. Of course, the length to which these branches are to be cut back de¬ 
pends upon the vigor of the plant. The hole in which the plants are to be set must be of ample size. I lace 
the plant in the hole about 1 inch deeper than it stood in the nursery row, provided it is on its own roots. 
Budded roses should have the budded portion set 2 to 3 inches below the level. Fill the hole half-full of soil, 
pour in water,let this settle, put in some more earth, firm this well about the roots, then fill in the hole and 
firm when the job is completed. 
Water the plants whenever needed, and keep the soil well cultivated. 
Pruning. — This should not be done too earlv in the winter in this section. We have found from experience 
that if roses are trimmed before January 1st, they sometimes, during warm winters, start an early growth, and 
consequently the plants are killed by the heavy frosts in February. About two thirds of the past year s growth 
should be cut off, and all of the small, weak shoots and all decayed wood cut out. W r hen pruning cut close to an 
eye or to the main stem of the plant. Do not leave ragged or jagged stems, as these decay and injure the 
plants. The more vigorous the variety the less it should be pruned. Climbing roses should have only their 
side branches shortened in. Do not disturb the main stem. 
Note.—The pruning directions in the above paragraph refer to roses which have been planted more than 
a year. 
W r e frequently receive complaints from our patrons who order late in the spring. They state that the flow¬ 
ers produced are inferior and do not come up to description. It should be understood that perfect flowers 
cannot be had when the plants are set out late in February or March, and winch produce blooms before they 
are well established. But if these plants are allowed to grow until the following fall and receive the proper 
treatment as to pruning, fertilization and cultivation, there will be no cause for complaint. 
Note. — The letter following each Rose denotes the class to which it belongs, (T.) Tea, (H. T.) Hybrid 
Tea. (C.) China, (H. P.) Hybrid Perpetual, (N.) Noisette, (P.) Polvantha, (R.) Rugosa, (W.) Wichuraiana, 
(B.) Bourbon. 
New and Scarce Roses 
PRICES: Each 10 
One year, strong, field grown. $0.50 $4.00 
Climbing American Beauty. (H. P. ) Crimson flower 3 
to 4 inches in diameter; well formed, fragrant, strong 
grower, holds foliage late; blooms in May and June 
and occasionally during the summer. 
British Queen. (H. T. ) A new English rose. Awarded 
gold medal at the National Rose Association of Eng¬ 
land. Before expanding the bud is slightly tinted 
pink, but pure white when fully developed; free 
flowering; very fragrant. 
Dora. (B.) Large bloom, of a beautiful peach blossom 
pink, center deeper, changing to blush as the buds 
open; very free flowering. 
Geo. Eiger. (P.) A beautiful little golden-yellow Polyan- 
tha, and like all of this class is a very free bloomer. 
The dainty little pointed yellow buds open into little 
symmetrical roses. Excellent. 
Herzogin Marie Antionette. (H. T.) Buds very long; 
pure orange; flowers very large and of perfect form. 
A fine yellow rose. 
Hoosier Beauty. (H. T.) Bright, crimson scarlet shaded 
darker; long bud, fine texture, stiff stem; exceedingly 
fragrant. A splendid rose. 
Hugo Roller. (T.) Large : full ; rich lemon-yellow, petals 
edged and suffused with crimson; very free bloomer; 
Jonkeer J. L. Mock. (H. T.) A very strong grower and 
free bloomer; blooms clear imperial pink; of per¬ 
fect form and very fragrant. Magnificent bedding 
variety. 
La Tosca. (T.) Pink, tinted flesh. Flowers large, very 
double. Vigorous grower, free bloomer. 
Lady Hillingdon. (T.) Apricot yellow; beautiful bud; 
strong and vigorous grower; free bloomer; excellent^ 
Lady Roberts. (T.) Rich apricot, base of petals cop¬ 
pery. vigorous free bloomer. 
Lady Pirrie. (H. T.) Buff, tinted salmon. Extremely 
vigorous grower and free bloomer. 
Leslie Holland. (H. T.) Dark scarlet crimson shaded 
velvety crimson; large flowers; a free and profuse 
bloomer; highly scented; a superior variety. 
Lyon. (H. T.) Buds long, tipped coral-red and chrome 
yellow at base; when buds are fully opened the 
color is salmon pink shaded chrome in center; very 
desirable. 
Marie d'e LeSalle. (H, T.) Very free bloomer; buds 
long, opening into flowers of fine, form; petals large; 
color bright cerise, reverse of petals carmine; very 
double. 
Mine. Meleine Soupert. (T.) Yellow, center deeper, 
edged and shaded apricot. Buds long. 
Melle Blanche Martignat. (T.) Beautiful peach pink 
tinted yellow and crimson; free bloomer; fine foliage; 
bud long and pointed. 
Mme. Segond Webber. (T.) Bud is long and of rosy- 
salmon or flesh-color, and color deepens as the bloom 
expands; a most desirable variety. 
Mrs. Foley Hobbs. (T.) Petals thick and of immense 
size; large blooms; white faintly tinted pink on 
edge of petals; very fragrant. 
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