Hints to Planters 
Time for Planting—In this climate, vegetation, al¬ 
though inactive in winter for the formation of leaves 
and wood, is never so as to new roots. A tree trans¬ 
planted in the early winter will, by the ensuing 
spring, have grown sufficient new roots to give it a 
hrm hold in the ground, and will grow off rapidly 
when active vegetation commences. Plant as early 
after the first killing frost as practicable, although 
hardy stock can be safely transplanted any time dur¬ 
ing the winter when the ground is not too wet or 
frozen. Planting can be continued until the middle 
of March, or until just before the buds begin to swell. 
Preparation of the Soli—The most desirable soil for 
fruit trees is a rich loam, naturally dry or made so 
by drainage. Peaches and plums must be be planted 
on high, well-drained soil. Before planting, prepare 
the land by thoroughly plowing and subsoiling, first 
using a two-horse plow, followed by a sub-soil plow. 
Lay off the rows at required distances, and dig holes 
at least two feet wide and two feet deep; fill the 
holes by breaking in the sides, commencing at the 
bottom and going upward. Use surface soil in fill¬ 
ing up, and with this mix one or two shovelsful of 
thoroughly decomposed barn yard manure, or use 
one or two pounds of good bone meal. All fertilizers 
must be thoroughly incorporated with the soil. Avoid 
contact of the roots with heating manures. We 
strongly advocate digging holes with dynamite 
wherever feasible. 
Preparation of Trees and How to Plant—Before 
planting, remove the broken roots; cut back one-year 
peach, apple, pear, cherry and plum trees to a naked 
stem 1% to 2*4 feet high, leaving no side branches. 
Two-year-old trees should have their branches cut 
back to half their length or less; the lower limbs 
less than those above, cutting in shorter as you go 
upward, leaving the leader the longest. (For prun¬ 
ing peach trees, see page 6.) The tree should be 
set about 2 inches deeper than it stood in the nursery. 
Cultivation—You cannot expect to get good results 
from your trees unless you keep them well culti¬ 
vated. The soil must be frequently stirred during 
summer. The area immediately around the trees 
must be kept free from grass and weeds, and this 
portion of the orchard should receive especial atten¬ 
tion. All suckers or branches which start below the 
head of the tree should be removed. For the first 
two years cultivate the orchard during summer in 
some crop suited to the location, such as cotton, 
vegetables, melons, peas, peanuts, velvet or soy 
beans, giving the preference to leguminous crops. 
Never plant corn or small grain in your orchard. 
It is always advisable to sow in the fall a cover 
crop, such as clover, vetch or rye, using a suitable 
fertilizer. Turn under this cover crop in early 
spring. When soils are deficient in lime and po¬ 
tash, supply this deficiency with an application of 
lime, bone meal, hardwood ashes or high grade com¬ 
mercial fertilizer, as the soil requires. Satisfactory 
results cannot be expected unless the orchard is 
supplied with the proper plant food and receives 
careful cultivation. 
Selection of Trees—For this climate, experience has 
taught us that one and two-year-old trees of thrifty 
growth (except peaches, only one-year trees of which 
should be planted) are the most desirable. Pur¬ 
chasers should bear in mind that such trees can be 
removed from the nursery with all their roots, where¬ 
as, a four- or five-year-old tree cannot be taken up 
without cutting away a large portion of them. Suc¬ 
cess in transplanting is increased according as atten¬ 
tion is paid in selecting well-rooted trees, instead of 
heavily-branched ones. Give as many sound roots 
and as little head to a tree as possible. 
Care of the Trees on Arrival—If not ready to plant 
on arrival, unpack without exposing the roots to cold 
or air; dig a trench, and heel-in by carefully cover¬ 
ing the roots with earth, and give a copious water¬ 
ing. Trees thus treated can remain in the trenches 
until ready for planting in the orchard. If frozen 
when received, do not open the boxes, but place them 
in a cellar or some cool, dark room that is free from 
frost, and let them remain until all frost is drawn 
out. If no cellar or frost-proof room, bury the box 
m sawdust or dirt until thawed. The poinT is to 
get the frost entirely out without sudden exposure 
of stock to heat, light or air. Even if frozen solid, 
the stock will not be injured if handled in this 
manner. 
Injurious Insects and Fungus Diseases 
M e only enumerate the most abundant and de¬ 
structive insects and fungus diseases which infest 
our orchards and gardens. The remedies as sug¬ 
gested are in accordance with the latest recommenda¬ 
tions of the leading Entomologists. 
Previous to spraying during the dormant season 
all trees and plants should be properly pruned. The 
proper time for applying spray solutions cannot be 
given exactly in this calendar. Allowances for dif¬ 
ference in climatic \veather conditions between dif¬ 
ferent localities must be considered. The orchardist 
should familiarize himself with the habits and life 
history of the different insects and diseases, in order 
that he may apply to his particular locality and con¬ 
ditions the necessary measures. 
APPLES 
Apple Worm (Coddling Moth)—Spray with two 
pounds of Standard Arsenate of Lead, three pounds 
vf lime to each fifty gallons of water; first, so soon 
as the petals fall and before the calyx closes; second 
two weeks later; third, about eight weeks after the 
petals fall. 
When the time comes for using the third spraying 
Bordeaux Mixture should be combined with one* and 
one-half pounds of Arsenate of Lead. The Bordeaux 
Mixture (4-4-50) is used at this time to prevent 
Bitter Rot and other fungus diseases. 
Apple Tree Blight—Same treatment as 
mended for Pear Blight. 
recorn- 
Bitter Hot—Use Lime-Sulphur Solution one and 
one-fourth gallons, two pounds of Arsenate of Lead 
to each fifty gallons of water. Spray as soon as 
petals fall. Give a second application of this same 
mixture three or four weeks after petals fall; then 
about eight weeks after petals fall use Bordeaux 
Mixture (4-4-50) with the addition of two pounds of 
Arsenate of Lead, and repeat this latter spraying 
every two weeks until four applications of same have 
been given. 
Borer—Keep orchard free from litter and examine 
trees regularly for borers. Their presence will be 
indicated by sawdust at the entrance* of their bur¬ 
rows. Remove, if near the surface, by means of a 
knife or wire. For those that have entered to a con¬ 
siderable depth inject, by means of medicine drop¬ 
per, a small quantity of carbon bi-sulphate in their 
excavation and seal securely with putty or wax. 
Canker Worm—Encircle the tree with a canvas belt 
thoroughly coated with tar; also spray with arse¬ 
nate of lead as soon as worms appear; two pounds 
of arsenate of lead, three pound-s of lime to fifty 
gallons of water. If necessary repeat in three or 
four da$’s. 
Caterpillar—Destroy nests as soon as they appear 
in the spring, or spraying with two pounds of arse¬ 
nate of lead, three pounds of lime to fifty gallons 
of water. 
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