I^I^NfecHu^E RIES 
Berckmans Co. at Augusta. This conifer is 
of dwarf, compact and symmetrical habit. A 
perfect gem for small gardens or cemetery 
lots. For window boxes and vases this plant 
is most effective. It is desirable where it is 
too cold for Palms and other decorative plants. 
For formal planting it is at its best when 
planted in high, well-drained soils and in a 
protected situation the plants have stood 15 
below zero without injury. 
PRICES: Each 
5-6 ft., beautiful, compact specimens . $10.00 
4-5 ft., beautiful, compact specimens . 8.00 
15-18 inches . 2.50 
T. orientalis aurea pyramidalis. (Biota aurea 
pyramidalis.) Originated by P. J. Berck¬ 
mans Co. Of erect, symmetrical and compact 
growth. Of beautiful, golden tint. Its col¬ 
umnar habit adapts it to formal planting and 
suits it to lawn planting and evergreen groups. 
Will attain a height of 20 to 25 feet. 
PRICES: 
Each 
,10 
6-7 ft., beautiful, compact 
specimens . 
.$8.00 
$60.00 
5-6 ft., beautiful, compact 
specimens . 
. 6.00 
55.00 
4-5 ft., beautiful, compact 
specimens . 
. 4.50 
40.00 
T. orientalis pyramidalis. (Biota pyramidalis.) 
In this we have succeeded in getting a form 
of the pyramidal arbor-vitae which does not 
become brown during winter, but retains con¬ 
stantly its bright-green color; of compact and 
pyramidal habit A plant which fills a long- 
felt want. 
PRICES: Each 
6-7 ft., beautiful, compact specimens.$15.00 
5-6 ft., beautiful, compact specimens. 10.00 
T. orientalis Sieboldi. (Biota japonica filifor- 
mis.) A Japanese variety with thread-like 
foliage; compact habit. We consider this one 
of the most distinct and desirable novelties 
and it is becoming a great favorite. Well 
suited for cemeteries; also desirable for tubs. 
Attains a height of 10 to 15 feet. 
PRICES: Each 
5-6 ft., beautiful compact specimens . $8.00 
4-5 ft., beautiful compact specimens . 4.00 
3-4 ft., beautiful compact specimens . 3.00 
All the above Arbor-vitaes have abundant 
small roots, and transplant well. 
Roses 
All of the roses described in this catalogue have been thoroughly tested. We try out annu¬ 
ally all of the leading new sorts, many of which will never appear in our catalogue, as they 
failed to measure up to our standard. Before sending roses to our clients we must be assured 
that they are good growers and free bloomers. Of course, some roses will give better results in 
certain localities than others, and some of the forcing roses will not stand in open ground, and 
vice-versa. Strong, field-grown roses have always been one of our specialties. For many years 
our roses have been noted for their sturidness and unusual vigor. Roses grown at Augusta are 
giving splendid results in Canada and other cold sections. 
Our soil is especially adapted to developing the rose properly. Our one-year, field-grown 
plants equal the average two-year, field grown plants of the North and West. 
No garden, it matters not how small, is complete without roses, and every lanscape scheme 
should bp provided with a place for the rose. 
DIRECTIONS FOR GROWING ROSES 
Soil and Preparation of Same—The rose will adapt itself to almost any well-drained soil, but 
will give best results when planted in a good, rich, deep loam which has been thoroughly drained 
and well fertilized. If, however, the soil is thin and sandy it is advisable to add a good propor¬ 
tion of heavy soil. It is best to plant roses in an open, sunny place where the plants will be ex¬ 
posed to a full light. Never plant roses under large trees or where the ground is taken up by 
the roots of adjacent trees. You can never expect to get good results unless the ground is kept 
free from grass and weeds and thoroughly cultivated. A mulching of straw, leaf mold, leaves, or 
thoroughly rotted cow manure is beneficial. During the growing season it is advisable to fertilize 
roses from time to time, using bone meal, well-rotted cow manure or liquid manure, apply at in¬ 
tervals of a month or six weeks. So soon as the fertilizer is applied it should be worked into 
the soil. 
Never use a spade in rose bed, but use a digging fork, this is less likely to cause injury to 
the roots. After the beds have been cultivated, rake the surface smooth and even. Frequent 
stirring of the surface \s beneficial. A top dressing of hardwood ashes is excellent. 
Planting—We cannot emphasize too greatly the necessity of pruning all roses before trans¬ 
planting. All weak growth should be cut out, leaving only the stoutest and most vigorous shoots, 
and these must be cut back to within 3 to 6 inches of the ground. Of course, the length to which 
these branches are to be cut back depends upon the vigor of the plant. The hole in which the 
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