lVgvsta. Georgia 
P.J.Berckmms Co. 
Hints for 
Preparation of the Soil. The most desirable soil for 
fruit trees is a rich loam, naturally dry or made so by drainage. 
Peaches and plums must be planted on high, well-drained soil. 
Before planting, prepare the land by thoroughly plowing 
and subsoiling, first using a two-horse plow, followed by a 
subsoil plow. Lay off the rows at required distances, and dig 
holes at least two feet wide and two feet deep; fill the holes 
by breaking in the sides, commencing at the bottom and going 
upward. Use surface soil in filling up, and with this mix one or 
two shovelfuls of thoroughly decomposed barnyard manure; 
or use one or two pounds of good bone meal. All fertilizers 
must be thoroughly incorporated with the soil. Avoid the con¬ 
tact of the roots with heating manures. 
Selection of Trees. For this climate, experience has 
taught us that one- and two-year-old trees of thrifty growth 
(except peaches, only one-year trees of which should be planted) 
are the most desirable. Purchasers should bear in mind that 
such trees can be removed from the nursery with all their roots, 
whereas a four- or five-year-old tree cannot be taken up with¬ 
out cutting away a large portion of them. Success in trans¬ 
planting is increased according as attention is paid in selecting 
well-rooted trees, instead of heavily-branchea ones. Give as 
many sound roots, and as little head to a tree as possible. 
Preparation of Trees. Before planting, remove the broken 
roots, cut back one-year peach, apple, pear, cherry and plum 
trees to a naked stem 1J to 2 J feet high, leaving no side branches. 
Two-year-old trees should have their branches cut back 
to half their length, or less; the lower limbs less than those 
above, cutting in shorter as you go upward, leaving the leader 
the longest. (For pruning peach trees, see page 7.) The tree 
should be set about 2 inches deeper than it stood in the nursery. 
Time for Planting. In this climate, vegetation, although 
inactive in winter for the formation of leaves and new wood, 
Planters 
is never so as to new roots. A tree transplanted in November 
or December will, by the ensuing spring, have formed suffi¬ 
cient new roots to give it a firm hold in the ground, and will 
grow off rapidly when active vegetation commences. Plant 
as early after the first killing frost as practicable, although 
hardy stock can be safely transplanted any time during the 
winter when the ground is not too wet or frozen. 
Cultivation. To get good results from your trees, keep 
them well cultivated. Stir the soil frequently during the sum¬ 
mer. Remove all suckers and branches which start below the 
head of the tree. For the first two years, cultivate the orchard 
in some hoed crop suited to the location, such as cotton, vege¬ 
tables, melons, peas, or any similar crop. Cultivate frequently. 
Never plant corn or small grain in your orchard if the soil is of 
light character, but for stiff soils devoid of humus, sow rye, 
clover, or barley in fall, using a suitable fertilizer. Turn under 
this cover crop in spring, and drill in peas. If soil is devoid 
of lime and potash, supply the deficiency with bone meal, 
hardwood-ashes, or a good commercial fertilizer. You cannot 
get a healthy growth on your trees unless the orchard is sup¬ 
plied with the proper plant-food. 
Care of the Trees on Arrival. If not ready to plant on 
arrival, unpack without exposing the roots to cold or air, dig a 
trench, and heel-in by carefully covering the roots with earth, 
and give a copious watering. Trees thus treated can remain in 
the trenches until ready for planting in the orchard. If frozen 
when received, do not open the boxes, but place them in a 
cellar or some cool, dark room that is free from frost and let 
them remain until all frost is drawn out. If no cellar or frost¬ 
proof room, bury the box in saw-dust or dirt until thawed. 
The point is to get the frost entirely out without sudden ex¬ 
posure of stock to heat, light or air. Even if frozen solid, the 
stock will not be injured if handled in this manner. 
Injurious Insects 
The rapid increase of insects injurious to fruit and fruit trees necessarily compels the horticulturist to obtain a knowl¬ 
edge of their habits, that he may provide means to oppose their ravages; otherwise he must remain at their mercy, and find 
that paying crops become more and more uncertain. The limits of this catalogue allow only space for the enumeration of the 
most destructive and abundant species which infest the orchards and vineyards, and the best remedies as suggested by lead¬ 
ing entomologists. The following remedies are compiled from the latest recommendations. 
APPLES 
Apple Worm ( Carpocapsa pomoneUa , or Codling Moth). 
Spray with arsenate of lead at the rate of two pounds to fifty 
gallons of water, and Bordeaux mixture (six pounds lime, three 
pounds bluestone), the first spraying to be applied just before 
the calyx closes, and the second from seven to eight weeks later, 
when the brood appears. This gives the best results from an 
economic standpoint. It is generally conceded that earlier or 
later sprayings than mentioned above are of no value against 
the first brood, when dealing with the codling-moth. Bordeaux, 
not being strictly an insecticide, does not act against the 
codling moth, but it is always well to use it with arsenate of 
lead to prevent apple scab or other fungous diseases. 
Borer ( Saperda Candida). Examine trees in spring and 
again in June and dig out the grubs with a wire. Then wash 
the collar of roots and parts of the body with a mixture of 
lime and sulphur. 
Caterpillar ( Clisiocampa Americana). Destroy nests as 
soon as they appear in spring by burning, or spray with Paris 
green eight ounces, lime one pound, water fifty gallons. 
Spring Canker Worm ( Paleacrita vernata). Encircle the 
tree with a canvas belt coated thoroughly with tar or train 
oil; or spray with six ounces Paris green and one pound lime to 
fifty gallons Bordeaux or water. 
Woolly Aphis ( Schizoneura lanigera). For above-ground 
colonies, wash trees with solution of whale-oil soap or kero¬ 
sene emulsion. For root-inhabiting colonies, remove the 
soil to a depth of about three inches, or sufficient to partially 
expose the roots; open a circle from four to eight feet in diam¬ 
eter, depending on the spread of the roots, distribute three 
to eight pounds of tobacco dust or use 15 per cent kerosene 
emulsion. Enough emulsion should be used to saturate the 
Soil to a depth of three or four inches. Recent experiments 
have shown that kerosene emulsion may be used with success. 
Tobacco dust is of more value as a preventive and ferti¬ 
lizer. Badly infested trees should receive kerosene treatment. 
PEACHES AND PLUMS 
Peach Tree Borer ( Sanninoidea exitiosa). The old method 
of worming peach trees during winter has been found ineffec¬ 
tive, principally because the worms cause too much damage 
before being removed. 
In the spring remove the earth from about the body of the 
tree down to the crown, scraping off gummy exudations, and 
carefully search for the borer. For this work, use a farrier’s 
knife, or a tool especially made for working peach trees. 
An excellent wash for borers is the following: One bushel of 
quick lime, twenty pounds of sulphur, one gallon of coal-tar, 
fifty gallons of water. Mix tar and sulphur in ten gallons of 
water and add lime. Stir well while slaking. When it is en¬ 
tirely slaked, dilute the above to fifty gallons, and apply this 
wash to the tree, allowing it to run well down upon the roots. 
As soon as it is applied, draw up the earth to the trees so that 
it will form a cone about six inches above the level. A second 
application of this wash should be applied during August. 
During the last of October, remove the mound of earth from 
around the tree and thoroughly scrape the bark as in the spring 
and give another application of the wash. This is vigorous 
treatment, but it is effective. 
Curculio ( Conotrachleus nenuphar). To prevent the depre¬ 
dation of this pest, see remedial measures under head of “Brown 
Rot’’ on page 4. 
San Jose Scale (Aspidiotus perniciosus). This attacks 
peach, pear, apple, quince, cherry, raspberry, rose and a num¬ 
ber of other trees and shrubs. For winter treatment, we would 
recommend spraying with lime-sulphur solution. Spray in 
December and again late in February or early March if the 
orchard is badly infested. For summer treatment would suggest 
spraying with kerosene emulsion, one part of emulsion to five 
of water, or use the regular strength of lime-sulphur solution, 
applying this with a brush to the trunks and larger limbs only. 
None of this mixture should be put on the foliage or young 
growth. 
Other Scale Insects, of which there are several species, 
which are more or less destructive to fruit or other trees, can 
be eradicated by the use of kerosene emulsion, whale-oil soap 
or Larkin’s Sulpho-Tobacco Soap. 
( Note. —If your trees are infected with any insects or fungous 
diseases, send infected portion to your Experiment Station, 
your State Entomologist, or United States Entomologist, at 
Washington, D. C.) 
JAPANESE PERSIMMONS, WALNUTS 
AND PECANS 
Borer (Prionus). These bore through the roots and usually 
destroy the tree; and must be carefully removed. Carefully 
examine collar of tree in winter and midsummer, and apply 
lime and sulphur wash. 
Caterpillar ( Catocala maestoso). Feeds on the leaves of 
pecans, and is sometimes quite injurious; spray with Paris 
green, four ounces, lime one pound, to fifty gallons of water. 
Pecan Bud Worm ( Proteopteryx Deludana). Spray the trees 
just as the buds are opening, with arsenate of lead, three 
pounds to fifty gallons of water, and repeat application ten 
days later. If the worms appear again in June or July repeat 
the treatment. This will also help control the pecan case borer. 
Twig Girdlers (i Oncideres cingulatus). All limbs that have 
been girdled and have fallen must be burned at once, thu^ 
destroying all future broods of sawyers. 
3 
