CARE OF FRUIT TREES 
*• 
Newly planted trees should be well cultivated the first season, to conserve moisture and to keep 
down weeds and grass. It is not always good economy to intercrop with grass, small fruits, or grain, 
unless the young trees are making extraordinary strong growth. When the trees are well established, 
the spaces between the rows may be used for other crops for a few years, until the trees need the space; 
but while making their initial growth the trees ought not have to compete with other crops for the plant- 
food in the ground. 
One of the most important items in the care of Fruit Trees is to see that they are trained right from 
the start. Our two-year-old sizes have the heads already formed, with three to five scaffold limbs well 
arranged along the trunk to support the head. These trees should be cut back, leaving just the scaffold 
limbs shortened to the point where it is desired to have the head of the tree. 
One-year trees, or whips, should be trimmed to smooth, straight stems, cutting them squarely off at 
the distance from the ground at which it is desired to have them branch. Usually, apples, plums, pears, 
and cherries are headed a little higher than peaches, which ought to be encouraged to branch as low as 
possible. 
The after-pruning is a matter which requires some knowledge of tree-growth and habit, as well as 
the purpose for which the trees are grown. In general, it is best to thin out the previous season’s 
growth, especially in the first few years of the tree’s life. Afterward, pruning may consist of cutting out 
dead wood, and keeping the center of the tree open to the air and sun. 
Some sixteen year-old 
Stayman Winesap trees 
>n full bloom on one of 
the Adams County Nurs¬ 
ery and Fruit Farms. 
A vfesv of our packing house. Nursery stock ready for shipment. 
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The Finest Fruit Trees Grown at Rock-Bottom Prices 
My fruit trees are grown on strong fruit soil, in Pennsylvania’s best fruit district Adams County. 
I supervise the cutting of buds and the best of care is taken to have every variety true to name. My ^sell¬ 
ing price is only a little above the actual cost of growing, giving the purchaser the benefit of lowest prices. 
My Nursery is inspected every year by State Nursery Inspectors, to see that all nursery stock is clean and 
healthy. A Certificate of Inspection accompanies all purchases. 
This price list contains a list of the best fruits for this latitude, and their descriptions are not exag¬ 
gerated or misleading. 
Come to the Nursery, if you can do so, make your selection, and take them with you in your automo¬ 
bile or your truck. Otherwise, we will ship them to you by Express, Freight or Parcel Post, as you may 
wish. My Nursery is located one-half mile from Bendersville railroad station, 35 miles from Hanlsbuig, 
12 miles from Gettysburg, on the Harrisburg-Gettysburg State Road via Carlisle, Route No. 34, haid roac. 
I have ideal shipping facilities—a large packing-house on a siding of the Reading Railroad. The 
trees are carefully packed and should reach the purchaser in the best of condition. 
The greatest of care is taken to have all trees, etc., true to label. Any proving not so will be leplaced 
or purchase price refunded, upon proper proof. In no case shall my maximum responsibility exceed the 
original amount paid. 
All orders are accepted upon condition that they shall be void should any injury befall the stock 
from hail, storm, or other causes beyond control. 
TERMS 
Cash with order, or satisfactory reference. A discount of 5 per cent.allowed on all orders when 
cash accompanies same. In case you wish to place an order for future delivery, you may send a deposit 
of 25% with order and we will hold the trees until the specified shipping date. 
PACKING OF NURSERY STOCK 
All packing will be done in boxes or bales, thus protecting the roots and trees well in shipping. No 
charge is made for packing or delivery to railroad at Bendersville Station. 
SHIPPING OF NURSERY STOCK 
The spring shipment of nursery stock begins about March 15 to April 1, depending on the early or 
late season. 
Purchasers are requested to state whether they wish stock shipped by freight or express. We de¬ 
liver free all orders amounting to $50.00 or more within a radius of 500 miles. 
PLANTING OF FRUIT TREES 
It is a wise thing to choose land that is well-drained because no fruit trees can thrive in a damp, sog¬ 
gy soil. Plums and quinces will stand a greater amount of dampness than other fruits, but they are bet¬ 
ter if they do not have to contend with unfavorable drainage. The best-drained soil is that whose natural 
elevation conduces to the rapid elimination of surplus water. A gently sloping hillside, free from hol¬ 
lows or swales where late frosts may not linger, affords the best site. Peaches ought to get the highest 
locations, because there is less danger from late spring frosts on high ground than on low. 
If possible, the land should be prepared as for a good crop of grain, although heavy fertilization is 
not essential if soil is reasonably fertile. 
Have the holes dug in the proper places for the trees, large enough to receive the roots comfortably 
without bending or twisting them. It is well to stake out the orchard in advance to be sure that the holes 
get dug in the right places. 
When the trees arrive from the nursery, open the package and plant them immediately if it is pos¬ 
sible. Be very careful to keep the roots covered to prevent their drying out. In planting, set the trees 
upright near the center of the holes, spread out the roots evenly, and work fine earth in among them, 
making sure that they are packed in close contact with the soil. If small air-pockets remain about the 
roots they will extract moisture from them, so injuring them that the trees may die. 
If it is impossible to plant the trees immediately, dig them in. To do this, dig a trench, shovel¬ 
wide and deep, and long enough to hold the roots when they are placed side by side upright. Sift fine 
earth over the roots, and when the trench is half full, soak them with water and pile on the remainder 
of the earth. In this temporary planting the trees will keep in good condition for a week or two. 
In setting out young trees, place them a little deeper than they grew in the nursery. The earth- 
mark on the base of the stem is the best guide in this. 
DISTANCES APART FOR PLANTING Diagram showing planting 
Apples 
30 to 40 ft. each way 
of 
permanents 
and 
fillers. 
Pears. 
Plums 
20 to 30 ft. each way 
16 to 20 ft. each way 
o 
X 
o 
X 
O 
Peaches 
16 to 20 ft. each way 
Cherries 
16 to 25 ft. each way 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
Apricots. 
16 to 20 ft. each way 
Quinces 
Grapes 
8 to 14 ft. each way 
8 to 12 ft. each way 
o 
X 
o 
X 
o 
Currants 
4 by 5 ft. 
Gooseberries 
Raspberries, Black 
4 by 5 ft. 
3 by 6 ft. 
X 
X 
X 
X 
X 
Raspberries, Red 
Blackberries 
3 by 5 ft. 
3 by 5 ft. 
o 
X 
o 
X 
o 
FILLERS 
Fillers are used in an apple orchard to 
increase the yield per acre while the trees 
are yet young. Peach trees may be used 
for fillers, or an early-bearing apple vari¬ 
ety such as Yellow Transparent, Duchess, 
or Wagener. The fillers must be removed 
as soon as the permanent trees require the 
room. 
To the left is shown a diagram of an or¬ 
chard using fillers. You will notice that 
fillers are planted between the permanents 
in both directions. 
X —Represents Fillers. 
O—Represents Permanents. 
