THE SUCCESSFUL RHODODENDRON BED 
By llarlan P. Kclsev 
This includes Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Azaleas, Lcucolhoes, Blueberries and other 
ericaceous genera, and similar native and exotic plants and often such “fillers” as Ferns, 
Lilies, etc., most of which delight in acid soil conditions, and which are usually grouped 
together to make what is termed the “Rhododendron Bed.” 
This class of plants is most at home in somewhat shady and damp situations, and in 
a porous soil supplying plenty of humus and always showing more or less acid reaction. 
Limestone (alkaline) soils must be avoided, as a majority of ericaceous plants ( Rhododen¬ 
dronsAzaleas , Blueberries , etc.) are rarely if ever found growing naturally under such 
soil conditions. Sandy loam is favorable, but in all cases continuous supply of humus 
should be provided. 
Mulching. This means that the Rhododendron bed should have annually a heavy 
mulch of hardwood leaves, which is left on the year round to decay. Mulching also keeps 
the ground cool in summer and warm in winter and protects the line feeding rootlets of 
the plants. Removing the mulching in spring to make the beds “look belter ” is one of the 
greatest causes of non-success in growing Rhododendrons and similar plants. i\ r o expert 
gardener would ever think of so doing. 
Preparation of Bed. Unless conditions are naturally favorable, excavate 2 to 3 
feet and (ill with woods mold, “Kalmia peal,” good loam, rotted field-sods, and perhaps a 
third in bulk of swamp muck or peat, or similar soils. Make a tenth part of the mixture 
sharp sand, especially where the soil is too clayey. The center of the bed or plantation 
may be raised fi to 12 inches above surrounding ground, after allowing for natural settling. 
Planting. Plant the same depth as before (shown by earth line, or “collar” on stem) 
and firmly press soil around roots with the fool, but don’t pack the earth too solid — 
Rhododendrons arc not telegraph poles. “Fillers,” including Lilies and other bulbs and 
smaller ground-covering species, should be planted after the larger plants arc all in and 
properly spaced. Then soak the ground and apply the mulching. 
Winter Protection. If convenient, protect them with pine or other, evergreen 
boughs, particularly where exposed to the sun and wind; yet Rhododendrons rarely suffer 
in the latitude of Boston or Buffalo, if properly planted and mulched. In the latitude of 
Ottawa and Quebec, Canada, a board fencing may be placed around the edge of the bed 
and much heavier temporary mulching of straw, etc., filled in almost or quite to the tops 
of the plants. It is rarely necessary to build a board cover, except on southern exposures 
to prevent sunburn, or with tender varieties not suitable for general planting, and even 
then evergreen boughs are preferable. Good ventilation must be provided. 
Selecting the Location. For the Rhododendron bed, a northern exposure is 
preferable, especially in low elevation in the South, or elsewhere where freezing and 
thawing is quite continual. A direct winter sun on the frozen leaves of any brondlcaf 
evergreen often kills outright or spoils the foliage. The north side of the building, wall, 
woods or hill is always preferable, and windswept locations should be avoided, unless 
proper measures are taken to check the heavy winds. 
In Limestone Soils. Excavation is imperative and fresh soil showing acid reaction 
substituted. This can be successfully done. A striking example is shown in Highland 
Park, Rochester, New York, where one of the most beautiful Rhododendron and Azalea 
beds in America has been constructed and planted in a location originally or a heavy lime¬ 
stone nature. Blueberry culture is not a success in limestone soils. 
Enemies of the Rhododendron. Rhododendrons, Kalmias and similar plants 
have few enemies. The only serious one 1 know is the Lace-wing Fly, which is native 
from New England throughout the Alleghanics, and is found on Kalmia angustifolia, 
Rhododendron maximum, Kalmia latifolia and occasionally on almost any broadlcaf 
evergreen or deciduous tree or shrub. This pest appears in early spring on the under 
side of the leaves and gets its sustenance by sucking the sap. 'I he leaves turn brown, 
giving the plant a ragged, unkempt appearance. It is easily disposed of by spraying the 
underside of the leaves, using a very fine nozzle, with an emulsion of ten gallons of whale- 
oil soap to one hundred gallons of water. While the Lace-wing My is more at home on 
Rhododendron maximum, it does not hesitate to attack all other species to a greater or 
less extent. Plants in the shade arc rarely infested to any great degree. 
The Use of "Fillers.” For the best landscape effects, as well as providing a con¬ 
tinual succession of bloom throughout the season, and actually protecting the Rhododen¬ 
drons and supplying “feathered” edge to the ground, a large variety of shrubs and plants 
may be emploved with the finest results. In fact, the planting of Rhododendrons without 
the* use of “filler” or “edging” plants may give harsh, formal effects, which are neither 
desirable nor natural in any way. In the use of “fillers” great care must be taken as to 
