11/16 in. — 1/2 in. — % in- — Vi > n - 
Pear Trees Graded by Caliper 
HOW OUR TREES ARE GRADED 
In accordance with the recently enacted 
state laws governing grades and stand¬ 
ards of nursery stock, our trees are 
graded by caliper rather than by height. 
This insures the fruit grower a uniform 
planting when the trees are cut back and 
set in his new orchard. Caliper grades 
and corresponding relative heights are 
shown in this catalog in each price 
classification. Each tree or each bundle 
of trees shipped by the California Nur¬ 
sery bears a label clearly stating the 
grade and variety. 
SUG 
GESTIONS 
FRUIT TREES 
When to Plant. Fruit trees are usually 
dug in this state in December. They may 
be planted any time after digging until 
spring. January and February, however, 
are the best planting months, and the 
earlier trees are put in the ground, the 
better growth they will usually make 
the first year. 
Treatment When Received. When trees 
are received from the nursery, unpack 
them at once, and unless they are to be 
immediately planted, heel them in by 
placing the roots in a trench and cover¬ 
ing with soil, which should then be thor¬ 
oughly wet down. Do not permit the 
roots to dry out or freeze. 
Planting the Tree. Dig large holes—at 
least six inches larger each way than 
necessary to accommodate the roots. 
Cut back the ends of roots slightly, and 
remove entirely any broken roots. Don't 
plant too deep. Leave the bud union 
showing just above the surface. Fill in 
with top soil, and firm it well about the 
roots. If possible, it is an excellent plan 
to water the tree when planting. After 
filling the hole about three-fourths full, 
pour in several gallons of water. When 
this has soaked away, finish shoveling 
in the soil, leveling up the ground 
around the tree. 
Don’t fail to cut the top back. This is 
necessary in order to balance the top 
with the loss of roots which always 
takes place when a tree is dug from the 
nursery. If the top is not cut back the 
result is usually a slow, weak growing 
tree the first season. If the tree has side 
branches when received from the nur¬ 
sery, do not remove them all, but leave 
two or three, shortening them in. (See 
illustration.) 
Developing the Tree. During May of the 
first season, select three or four young 
shoots, properly distributed around the 
trunk, and rub off all other growth. 
This will induce a maximum growth of 
the undisturbed branches. During the 
following winter, remove all growth of 
the preceding season except the three or 
four main branches or “leaders.” Cut 
these back, removing from one-third to 
one-half their growth. During May of 
the second summer, encourage from one 
to two shoots coming from each of 
these main branches, and lightly pinch 
back other growth. The tree will thus be 
provided with from five to seven main 
limbs, and this number is ample. With 
some varieties, no further cutting back 
is desirable after these main limbs are 
formed. In such cases subsequent prun¬ 
ing consists merely of thinning out, 
where the growth is too thick. With 
other varieties, it is necessary to con¬ 
tinue some cutting back, in order to in¬ 
duce proper branching, and to prevent 
a too upright growth. It should be kept 
in mind, however, that heavy pruning on 
young trees is not conducive to early 
bearing. 
PLANTS REQUIRED PER ACRE 
6x 6 feet 
1210 
22x22 feet 
90 
8x 8 feet 
680 
24x24 feet 
75 
10x10 feet 
435 
25x25 feet 
69 
12x12 feet 
302 
30x30 feet 
48 
15x15 feet 
193 
35x35 feet 
35 
16x16 feet 
170 
40x40 feet 
27 
18x18 feet 
134 
50x50 feet 
18 
20x20 feet 
109 
60x60 feet 
12 
This is the peach tree in the picture at right, 
pruned tor planting. 
Trees dug at random from our Loomis growing grounds Sept. 15th, 1937. Left to right: peach 
on peach; apricot on apricot; almond on almond; prune on myrobalan. 
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