HOW TO GROW ROSES 
Many books have been written on this subject but each gar¬ 
dener must modify general instructions according to con¬ 
ditions existing in his own garden. The basic rules, however, 
are the same for most localities. 
PREPARATION OF SOIL. Good roses can sometimes be raised 
from bushes carelessly planted but to obtain the largest and 
finest blooms and the longest season of bloom, proper prep¬ 
aration of the soil is essential. Soil should be prepared a 
month or two before the roses are to be planted. Dig soil to 
a depth of two feet. If drainage is poor, put six inches of 
sharp sand, fine gravel or cinders at the bottom of the bed. 
This will serve to carry away excess moisture. On-top of 
this drainage material put six inches to one foot of a soil 
mixture consisting of equal parts of well-rotted cow manure 
and good loam soil. If cow manure is not available, use some 
other decomposed vegetable matter. Fill the bed to the level 
of the surrounding area with a mixture of good loam and 
10 per cent well-rotted manure. 
The reason for putting the richest food just out of reach of 
the newly planted bushes is that a transplanted rosebush is 
much like a patient who has just undergone a serious opera¬ 
tion. It should be on a light diet at first but as it recovers and 
starts growth, it will send roots down to the food stored 
below. 
PLANTING. When your rosebushes are received from the 
nursery, unpack them carefully. Cut away any dead or 
bruised roots or branches. If they are slightly dried out put 
them in a bucket of water overnight before planting. When 
you are planting, put the roses in a bucket of water and take 
them out only as you are ready to put them in the soil. Do 
not expose them to drying winds. 
Dig the hole large enough to more than accommodate the 
roots without cramping them. Mound up the soil slightly 
in the bottom of the hole so the bush will set firmly on the 
earth with the roots slanting downward and outward. Fill in 
the earth about two-thirds of the way tramping it down 
firmly, then pour in 5 or 10 gallons of water which will com¬ 
plete the process of bringing the soil into contact with the 
roots at all points and eliminate any air pockets. When the 
water has soaked away, fill in with soil to the top of the 
hole but do not tramp. In a day or two, when the soil is 
settled fill in with more soil if necessary to level the bed. 
The rosebush should have been set deeply enough so that 
the bud union will be just flush with the levelled surface of 
the soil. By bud union is meant the point on the main trunk 
where the root stock has united with the cultivated variety 
which forms the top of the rosebush. This point is usually 
a couple of inches below the first main branches and is indi¬ 
cated by a slight swelling or “Collar.” When roses are budded 
on properly prepared root stocks there are seldom any under¬ 
ground sprouts or “suckers” coming from the root stock. 
If any growth should start, however, from below the bud 
union it should be cut off cleanly close up to the root since 
this wild growth would produce worthless flowers and soon 
rob the top part of the plant of its needed nourishment. 
WATERING. During periods when the natural rainfall is not 
sufficient to keep the ground moist, roses should be given a 
thorough soaking at least once a week. In hot, dry weather 
more frequent watering may be necessary. The best method 
of watering is by means of trenches around the plants into 
which water may run slowly so that it will soak deeply 
into the soil. Shallow watering or light overhead sprinkling 
is harmful since it encourages growth of surface roots which 
dry out too quickly. Overhead sprinkling also is likely to 
start mildew and blackspot trouble. 
Within a day or two after each irrigation, the surface of 
the soil should be stirred to avoid baking or cracking. Main¬ 
taining a loose mulch of surface soil will retard evaporation 
and conserve moisture. Where the soil is stiff and hard, it is 
advisable to supply a mulch of peat moss or decayed vege¬ 
table matter. A mulch of this kind should be stirred occa¬ 
sionally to prevent its packing and becoming impervious to 
water. 
FERTILIZATION. A good mulching of fairly fresh cow ma¬ 
nure while the roses are dormant is most beneficial. Light 
applications of this fertilizer can be made at any season but 
always apply it while the soil is wet and give a thorough irri¬ 
gation immediately afterward. We recommend GAVIOTA 
as a good commercial fertilizer for roses. An application 
according to directions when buds are half grown will mater¬ 
ially improve the size and color of the flowers. 
PRUNING. Proper pruning of roses can only be learned by 
actual experience. No set rule can be followed; each variety, 
in fact, each bush must be pruned according to its individual 
needs. Most gardeners fail to prune enough. Heavy pruning 
produces larger blooms. The idea in pruning is to encourage 
vigorous new growth and to remove weak and worthless 
branches. Roses should be pruned back to six or eight inches 
when planted. At the end of the first growing season each 
of these main branches should have one or two new branches. 
Cut these new branches back to about six inches; removing 
any weak growth and also any branches that crowd or grow 
in to the center of the bush. Always keep the centers open 
to allow as much light as possible to enter the plant. A prop¬ 
erly pruned mature bush will have somewhat the appearance 
of a deer’s antlers. All growth starting from below the bud 
union should be removed. 
December 15 to March 1 is the best season for dormant 
pruning. A light pruning may be given in summer when weak 
and interfering branches should be removed and the bushes 
cut back slightly. Extra heavy soft growth should be pinched 
back as such “sucker growth” will rob the rest of the plant 
of food and produce a poorly balanced plant. 
With climbers the framework branches should be trimmed 
to three or four and these trained up against the wall or 
trellis fanwise. The first two seasons these should be cut 
back at least one-third. Most climbers are benefited by a 
fairly heavy pruning every three or four years. 
PESTS. In the early spring, before mildew and blackspot 
are apparent, control them by dusting plants every week or 
ten days with a dust made from nine parts dusting sulphur 
and one part arsenate of lead. In cool climates spraying with 
Volck Oil or a similar oil emulsion used according to the 
manufacturer’s directions will be found effective in control¬ 
ling mildew. Bordelo, a new fungicide, used alone or in com¬ 
bination with Nursery Volck has also been found most effec¬ 
tive in controlling mildew. In changing from sulphur to oil 
sprays or vice versa, allow an interval of three or four weeks 
to intervene as a combination of the two control methods 
may result in burned foliage. To control plant lice or aphis, 
spray with a pyrethrum or nicotine spray as often as may be 
necessary to eradicate the infestation. 
