P. J.Berckmaats Co. Jit Avgusta, Georgia 
ORNAMENTAL DEPARTMENT 
A well-grown specimen of Tea Rose 
ROSES 
“Where is the Rose garden?” is one of the questions most frequently asked by visitors at Fruitland 
Nurseries. One expects to see Roses throughout the South—Roses covering the little cabins, clambering 
up the verandas of the “big house,” covering trellises with a wealth of bloom and fragrance, or running 
riot along the fences. Here at the Nurseries you find Rose plants in process of making, if this term may be 
used. In one section you find the little cuttings in beds of sand, just putting out the rootlets that are later 
to furnish sustenance to a sturdy bush bearing many blooms. This process gives Roses on their own roots. 
In an adjacent block the visitor finds the varieties that have been budded on Manetti stocks. It is 
almost impossible to root some varieties from cuttings, and unless these were propagated by the budding 
process their cultivation would have to be discontinued. Budded Roses, too, arc better adapted to a warm 
climate, as their roots penetrate the soil to a greater depth than do those propagated from cuttings, and 
therefore make stronger plants. 
Then one comes to the trial-grounds, where all the varieties we catalogue can be found in bloom, as 
well as many that are on probation—for we must be shown that they are worthy before we offer them to 
our customers. We test all of the new sorts, and if after two years’ trial they do not measure up to our 
standard they are discarded—therefore those that we do offer are worthy of a place in any garden. 
The soil at Fruitland Nurseries is especially adapted to the best development of the Rose, and our 
one-year field-grown plants equal the two-year plants of northern and western growers. 
DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING, PRUNING AND FERTILIZING ROSES 
Almost any good garden soil is suitable, but it must be well broken up and put in good condition 
before planting. It should also be well fertilized with decomposed stable manure, bone meal, or a high-grade 
commercial fertilizer. Be sure that the fertilizer is well incorporated with the soil. The ground must be 
kept free from weeds and grass and thoroughly cultivated in the summer. A mulching in the fall with 
stable manure or hardwood leaves is beneficial. During the growing season a small amount of bone meal 
or good fertilizer, applied at intervals of a month or six weeks, will be found beneficial to the plants. 
When Planting, cut off all but two or three of the strongest branches, and cut these back to 3 to 6 
inches, according to the vigor of the plants. Unless Roses are cut back severely when planted, there is danger 
of loss, and, furthermore, these cut-back plants will produce finer flowers. The holes in which the plants 
are to be set should be of ample size. You cannot expect good results from Roses improperly planted. 
Pruning. After the first killing frost, or when the Roses are thoroughly matured, two-thirds of the 
past year’s growth should be cut off. As a general rule, the more vigorous the variety, the less it should be 
pruned. Remove all decayed wood, and when pruning cut off close to the main stems or limbs, and do not 
leave ragged or jagged stems, as these will decay and injure the plant. Climbing Roses should have only 
their side branches shortened in; Do not disturb the main stem. Of course, all weak and spindling growth 
should be removed. 
We frequently receive complaints from our patrons who order late in the spring; they state that the 
flowers produced are inferior and do not come up to description. Would state that perfect flowers cannot 
be gotten when plants are set out late in February or March, and which produce blooms before they are 
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