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American Agriculturist, January 13, 192!] 
The A B C of Washing 
Elizabeth Johnston Tells How to Simplify This Often Unwelcome “Chore 
I T would be foolish for me to pretend 
that the family washing is not hard 
work, because you know as well as I 
that it is. There are, however, a few 
'tricks that will help a little, and though 
you may know some, you may not have 
heard of all of them. 
For convenience we will divide the 
work into three heads, family wash, 
woolens and silks. First let’s talk 
about the family wash. Lots of people 
who have no washing machines just 
gather the clothes up and begin to rub 
them, but if you have never tried it you 
will be surprised at the effect of a 
little soaking. Of course, it isn’t safe 
to try that with colored clothes, and 
you would want to divide the white 
clothes into two groups—the “body- 
clothes,” and the others. 
Put the clothes to soak the day be- 
before you wash, rubbing the soap 
directly on the specially soiled places, 
such as wrist-bands, neck-bands and 
skirt-hems. Use warm water if possi¬ 
ble. You cannot safely soak your 
clothes in tubs with iron fittings or in 
galvanized iron tubs that have a break 
should be mixed thoroughly with the 
water by squeezing it through a cloth, 
and that starch will dissolve only in 
hot water. 
There are only two.more suggestions 
that I have to make about the family 
wash, and one of those is that you soak 
the stockings in soapy water for an 
hour or two before washing time. Black, 
dark brown and dark blue stockings 
can be put in the same water. You will 
probably find it convenient to let them 
soak in a pail while you are doing the 
rest of the wash. As with the other 
clothes, this soffens the dirt and saves 
some of the rubbing. The other sug¬ 
gestion is that you use a brush on the 
men’s soft collars. You know how hard 
it is to remove the line of dirt that 
comes at the fold, but I think you will 
find a clean brush quite a help. 
Care in Washing Woolens 
In washing woolens, including blan¬ 
kets, the whole secret lies in using a 
very pure soap and tepid water. You 
can use either a cake or soap flakes 
(soap chips), but purity is absolutely 
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The Convenient Kitchen—Does Yours Approach This Model? 
This model kitchen, exhibited hy the Home Economics Department of the 
New York State College of Agriculture, shows washing machine, dish 
washer, and refrigerator, operated by electricity generated by an over¬ 
shoot water wheel. The kitchen is arranged in correct order to save steps 
in the galvanizing, because, if you do, 
you will make yourself more work tak¬ 
ing out rust-stains. Dripping faucets 
are also dangerous if you haye the 
usual iron pipes, because the drip will 
make a rust stain on the clothes which 
are directly under the faucet. But if 
the drip is very slow you can use the 
tub for soaking if you tie several thick¬ 
nesses of rag over the mouth of the 
faucet after letting in the water. These 
rags then catch the rust-stains. _ 
If you have a washing machine, put 
the clothes in and wash them accord¬ 
ing to the instructions with that par¬ 
ticular make. If you haven’t a machine 
boil your clothes next, using the appro¬ 
priate one of these two formulas; 
1. For Soft Water —Vz cake of Fels 
Naphtha Soap, 2 teaspoonfuls borax, 
piece of paraffin the size of a pea. 
2. For Hard Water —Vz cake of Fels 
Naphtha Soap, 2 teaspoonfuls washing 
soda, piece of paraffin the size of a pea. 
(Wyandotte Sanitary Cleaner and 
Cleanser or Dominion Cleaner and 
Cleanser may be used instead of wash¬ 
ing soda.) 
Any good grade of laundry soap, will 
do as well as Fels Naphtha, but you 
can judge about how much to use from 
the size of the Fels cake. Dissolve 
these materials in a saucepan full of 
boiling water. It will save time to cut 
the soap into small pieces first. When 
the mixture is dissolved, pour into the 
boiler of hot».yFater and then put your 
clothes in and boil for fifteen or twenty 
minutes. Put the clothes into cool 
water and examine carefully for any 
spots. An unvarnished wooden pole 
will he convenient for handling the hot 
clothes. There will probably be a few 
dirty spots, and these will have to he 
rubbed by hand, but I think you will 
find that the soaking and boiling have 
so softened the dirt that it will not take 
long to remove the spots. Rinsing, 
blueing and starching remain, but I am 
not going to suggest anything about 
those, because I am sure you have 
already been warned that blueing 
necessary. Never under any condi¬ 
tions use a soap powder or washing 
powder on woolens because these pow¬ 
ders contain a large percentage of 
washing soda, which is very injurious 
to any woolen material. Ivory Soap, 
Wool Soap, Fairy Soap, are all good; 
among the soap flakes, Lux, Ivory Soap 
Flakes and Fab are three of a number 
of good brands. 
Make a heavy lather with the flakes. 
The amount to use depends upon the 
size of your tubs and the hardness of 
the water. Hard water requires more 
soap than soft. The soap will dissolve 
and lather more quickly if you add the 
hot water first and beat it up with an 
old eggbeater or fork, adding the cold 
water afterwards. But if you do this, 
be sure to add enough cold water to 
make the tub-full tepid; it is better to 
have the water slightly cool than warm. 
Put the wool things into the water, 
souse them up and down, and squeeze 
them between your hands in order to 
force the soapy water through them. 
After a few minutes of this treatment 
rub any specially soiled spots gently by 
hand until clean and then repeat the 
first treatment for several minutes 
more, or until clean. Put the woolens 
through a wringer or squeeze the soapy 
water out by hand, but do not wring 
by hand because the twisting of the 
fibers is not good for wool or silk. Put 
the woolens into tepid rinse water and 
rinse thoroughly. This usually requires 
two rinse waters, but I think you will 
find it pays to use more if necessary 
in order to be sure that all the soap is 
removed. If soap is left in, your wool¬ 
ens will he more apt to pick up the dirt 
and in the long run will not wear as 
When You Wash Silk 
Of course, you know that some silks 
cannot -be laundered at all, hut wash- 
silks are as easily laundered as the 
woolens and in the same way. But there 
are a few precautions which may be 
taken to prevent the white silks from 
turning yellow—or, rather, to delay 
the yellowing as long as possible. If 
you will wrap a cake of blueing in a 
piece of cloth and squeeze a little of it 
into each water into which you put the 
silks, including the rinsing water, you 
will find that your silks will stay white 
longer. You all know that sunlight 
will bleach cotton goods, but unfortu¬ 
nately that same sun will turn silks 
yellow, and so wet silks should never 
be put in the sunlight. I have found it 
best, whenever possible, to iron the 
silks, soon after washing, without wait¬ 
ing for them to dry and then sprink¬ 
ling them. If you have a wringer you 
should be able to get them dry enough 
to iron immediately. You can get the 
same effect by squeezing the silks as 
dry as possible by hand and then plac¬ 
ing them in a clean, dry bath towel and 
squeezing them again. You all know 
that a dirty or burned cover on the 
ironing board is apt to soil the clothes 
you iron on it, but this is particularly 
time of silks. A moderately hot iron 
is best. _ 
LAUNDRY WORK IN WINTER 
MRS. GEORGE GRAY 
Women who would be horrified at 
the thought of committing suicide, 
weekly take their lives in their hands 
while doing the family washing. Many 
times I have seen women hanging up 
clothes on a winter’s day with arms 
bare to the elbow and a little cap the 
only covering for the head, while the 
hour previous had been spent over 
steaming tubs. 
A few minutes spent in “cooling off”j 
will be profitable. There are always; 
little things that may be done at this* 
time. When you go out, be prepared! 
for the exposure; wear overshoes, al 
coat, hood and loose white gloves. I 
always keep a pair of heavy canvas 
gloves in my clothespin bag, and they 
are not used for any other purpose. If 
the clothespins are placed in the oven 
or warming closet they will do much 
to make the task more pleasant, and 
the lines should be in place. 
There is nothing to be gained by 
hanging colored clothes outdoors. In 
the house they will dry more rapidly 
and be ready to iron before the white 
clothes are dry. There is usually an 
unused room where they may be hung. 
Many people make a practice pf 
hanging white clothes inside to dry, 
but I find they soon become yellow and 
cloudy. If the day is unfavorable I 
leave them in the basket, ready to hang 
“FIRST AID” FROM AN 
EXPERT 
M ISS JOHNSTON, who is an 
expert chemist, has person¬ 
ally tested and analysed practi¬ 
cally all the washing compounds 
on the market. Her experience is 
both practical and scientific—in 
fact, a great New York concern 
annuallj.' buys thousands of dollars 
worth of such supplies on her 
recommendations. 
Her advice to the housewife is 
therefore unusually valuable and 
“The A B C of Washing” has 
been prepared especially for 
American Agriculturist readers. 
up, or in a tub of water. No harm 
results from either course in cold 
weather. Clothes should not he out in 
a strong wind, particularly if the tem¬ 
perature is freezing. The whipping 
damages them more than the wear. 
But when the day is quiet, it is a joy 
to see. them hanging over the snow, 
whitening from the effects of the am¬ 
monia in it and the sun above. Delicate 
articles may be put in a cheesecloth 
bag and hung in the open. 
The days being so short, I find it is a 
great saving of time to soak the clothes 
over night, using warm water and a 
good soap. Often many pieces will be^ 
ready for the rinse water in the morn¬ 
ing. Having the starch made is another 
help. 
Freezing fades delicate colors and 
cracks linens, so this sort of garment 
should not be exposed. 
