184 
American Agriculturist, September 15,1923 
A Review of the Fashions For the New Season 
Extra Patterns to Complete the Fall and Winter Wardrobe—A Question Answering Service 
C LOTHES—aftd yet more clothes! 
The city stores are full of them; 
there are dozens of smart patterns,, for 
the home dressmaker to work on—-but 
both the woman who ' sews and the 
woman who buys may be pardoned for 
feeling too confused to know just what 
is needed or what is best to get for the 
coming season. 
The first thing to do , is to. take stock 
of what you have. Go over your!closgt 
and bureau drawers carefully. See 
what dresses can be furbished- up, by 
brushing and new trimmings, which 
will need more careful making over, 
and which must be discarded^ 5 Suits, 
coats, waists, andunderclothes should 
have the same careful scrutiny; and 
don’t forget shoes, gloves, and hats. 
Then, when you know what you have 
on hand and where are the gaps- in 
your wardrobe, you are prepared, to 
go to work intelligently on your win¬ 
ter’s outfit. .; 
Though there are always vagaries 
in the style of a new season, the shop¬ 
per who must spend her money to best 
advantage tries to choose'clothes which, 
while they have the new lines, still 
are sufficiently conservative to last out 
the year and usually another year or 
more, without looking foolishly out of 
date. With the needs of the farm wom¬ 
an especially in mind, the fashion edi¬ 
tor of the American Agriculturist has 
made a tour of the New York shops 
and the better mail-order houses and 
picked out the important features of 
the new fall and winter styles. 
And here are the results of her re¬ 
searches : 
Dresses.—One-piece dresses, of cloth 
or silk, are everywhere. It is a dress 
year—again. For cloth, twills are most 
popular, and navy blue and black con¬ 
tinue to be the best colors. In silk, 
crepe and satin predominate, a new 
satin? heavy but very soft, called 
charmeen, being the newest fabric. 
The long straight lines continue—are 
even more so, in fact! Waistlines are 
still dropped; indeed, in many cases 
seem to have dropped quite out of 
sight, for dress after dress has no belt 
or waistline at all. It is the new 
princess line, but quite unlike the old 
close-fitting princess. These dresses 
are fitted in at the waist just a trifle— 
enough to take away the awkward 
“flour-sack” appearance. In many, the 
line is broken by side gathers, drapery, 
or a whirl of lace or self-material, on 
the hip. 
at the waistline (or where it would be 
if slightly dropped) was the only other 
trimming. 
In silk dresses, there is a little more 
variety, drapings, bustle effects, and 
pleated skirts for the new brown shade 
—mordone —a leaf brown slightly dark¬ 
er than suede. Metallic trimmings are 
very usual. For more dressy wear, 
the Rembrandt green is popular. 
Suits. Though it is a “dress year,” 
suits are very tempting. Tweeds are 
used in combinations and in plain col¬ 
ors. Fur seems a little less popular 
Where it is used, it is used lavishly— 
on collar, coat hem, cuffs, skirt bands, 
and pockets but many of the smarter 
suits have none. Rough fabrics of a 
sport type are very popular, espe¬ 
cially m dark grays or two-toned 
weaves. 
Coats.—Coat styles have changed 
more, perhaps, than any other. In de¬ 
sign, they are much the same, but the 
fabrics are decidedly new. Huge 
checks, though not very bright in color, 
decorate coats of the polo type. Tans 
and light browns predominate. Also 
wide stripes are seen, going around 
instead of up and down. Because the 
two tones blend in well, these effects 
are not as startling as they sound; but 
the coats are decidedly noticeable and 
shown by all the good stores. 
More dressy wraps are seen in bat¬ 
tleship gray, mordone brown, black, and 
blue; they are long, usually fur- 
trimmed, and have matching silk lin¬ 
ings. Figured silks are seldom seen. 
Blouses.—Outside blouses continue 
popular. They vary from severe white 
crepe de chine to the most brilliant 
silks and metallic fabrics imaginable. 
Some have a touch of fur. 
Hats.—Moderate sizes prevail, though 
the very large hat is here for dressy 
wear. Velvet for better use, suede or 
felt for “sport” or every day, are the 
accepted materials. Crowns are large 
and rather high; brims a trifle “poke.” 
There are few toques or brimless hats. 
Some are gaily beaded or embroidered. 
The felts often are bound or trimmed 
with velvet and also use dashing quills 
and wings. Straight ostrich is almost 
universal on the better hats; it is 
usually in matching colors, but oc¬ 
casionally a shaded plume is seen. 
Many go closely around the crown; 
others droop off over the shoulder. 
Trimmings are very simple, but 
sometimes extremely striking. The 
quiet effect of the dresses is often re¬ 
lieved by a touch of brilliancy in the 
trimnpng. Instead of the unrelieved 
neckline of last year, we now have col¬ 
lars again—but they are in odd shapes 
and sizes. Old cream laces of the heavy 
design type—not the finer filets—are 
seen both in real and imitation. The 
collars are not exactly bertha in shape, 
but often come very low on the dress. 
Some are in tab-shape, back and front, 
others combine several laces, including 
the still popular Irish. 
One store is showing round collars 
in brilliant machine embroidery—blues, 
greens, and reds. Pleated frill ruf- 
flings, in black, cream and bright col¬ 
ors, are also much used. These vary 
in width from two to ten inches. One 
navy blue twill dress was trimmed all 
down the unbroken side closing, from 
shoulder to hem, with wide tan chiffon 
pleated ruffling. A red enamel buckle 
new idea 
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Shoes.—Very conservative styles are 
seen, as a reaction from the summer’s 
orgy • of red, green, and blue. Tan 
suede, in combination with leather, is 
much liked. All street shoes have mod¬ 
erate heels. The new browns are re¬ 
flected in the materials. Stockings 
should match or be slightly lighter 
toned. “Freak” shoes seem entirely out 
—and few will miss them! 
Accessories.—Since the dresses are 
so simple, beads and chains are run¬ 
ning riot in color and number, Ear¬ 
rings* too, in spite of the rumor that 
their vogue had passed, seem more firm¬ 
ly “in” than ever, and have a wide va¬ 
riety of style, big and little. Hand¬ 
bags of pleated silk with jeweled clasps 
are smart, so are flat, very long, leather 
ones; beaded bags are still seen every¬ 
where. Feathered bags for party use 
are very pretty, and there are still 
many fans, but they grow smaller now, 
instead of larger, each year. 
Question Service for Readers.—If 
any American Agriculturist readers 
have questions to ask about their 
clothes problems (new or makeover), 
their letters will be personally an¬ 
swered by the fashion editor. Enclose 
a stamped, self-addressed envelope for 
your reply, and do not make your ques¬ 
tions too general—that is, tell your 
coloring, what sort of use you wish 
the dress for, whether you are a young 
girl or an older woman, etc. This 
makes it easier for us to give you real¬ 
ly practical advice. 
A dark corner of a room can be 
brightened by placing a floor lamp so 
that it is reflected in a mirror. Also 
by purchasing hanging lamps with a 
good reflector on the back.— Mabel 
Fern Mitchell. 
YOUR FALL DRESS NEEDS ARE ANSWERED HERE 
T HE inside vest of No. 
1877 gives opportunity 
for a becoming contrasting 
material. The sleeves may 
be short or seven-eighths 
length. Notice the smart 
waist finish. 
No. 1877 is cut in sizes 
16 years, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 and 
46 inches bust measure. Size 
36 requires 2% yards of 40- 
mch or 3 yards of 36-inch 
material. Price 12c. 
1877 
Li 
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188 1 
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to lolo 
No. 1881. a slip -on, closes 
on the left shoulder. It cuts 
in sizes 34, 36, 38, 40 and 42 
inches bust measure. Size 36 
requires 4% yards of 36- 
inch material. Price 12c. 
Embroidery Pattern No. 666, 
12c extra. 
1873 
No. 1873 shows the 
popular pleated ruffle trim¬ 
ming. The sleeves are per¬ 
forated for shorter length. 
. No. 1873 comes in 
sizes 16 years, 36, 38, 40, 
42 and 44 inches bust 
measure. Size 36 requires 
4 yards of 36-inch materi¬ 
al. Price 12c. 
No. 1879 is a “One- 
Hour Dress,” made from a 
single strip of material so 
that even a beginner can 
finish it in tjhat time. 
No. 1879 is • cut in 
sizes 16 years, 36, 38, 40 
and 42 inches bust meas¬ 
ure. Size 36 requires 4 
yards of 36-inch material. 
Price 12c. The Embroid¬ 
ery Pattern No. 654 costs 
12c extra. 
No. 1868 is a coat and 
cap set for the child. The 
coat has kimono sleeves 
and is simple to make. 
No. 1868 comes in sizes 
%, 1, 2 and 3 years. The 
2-ye^r size requires 1% 
yards of 54-inch material 
for coat and y 2 yard 36- 
mch or wider, with % -yard 
lining for the cap. Price 
12c. 
ANOTHER version of the 
jTx separate blouse is No. 
1874. Notice tho clever 
way in which the back 
laps over to the front. 
The sleeves may be long or 
short. 
No. 1874 is cut in sizes 
16 years, 36, 38, 40, 42 and 
44 inches bust measure. 
Size 36 requires 1% yards 
36-inch material. Price 
12c. Embroidery Pattern 
No. 655, 12c extra. 
, No. 1865 is cut entire¬ 
ly from one straight piece 
of material, as the accom¬ 
panying diagram shows. You 
have only to stitch up the 
underarm seams, finish 
the neck and sleeves, hem 
the skirt, and your frock is 
ready. 
No. 1865 is cut in 
sizes 16 years, 36, 38, 40, 
42 and 44 inches bust 
measure. Size 36 requires 
3% yards of 36-inch mate¬ 
rial for the short sleeve 
dress. Price 12c- 
i&74 
L63 
W HATEVER the time of 
year, an apron is a ne¬ 
cessity. No. 1883 is a new 
style, and easy to make, as 
the diagram shows. The 
front and back of the upper 
part is cut in one and closes 
at the sides. 
No. 1883 is cut in 
sizes 36, 40 and 44 inches 
bust measure. Size 36 re¬ 
quires 2V S yards 36-inch 
material, with 5 yards edg¬ 
ing. Price 12c (stamps 
preferred). 
D 
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To Order: Write name, address, pattern numbers and sizes clearlv 
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