American Agriculturist, September 29,1923 
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Peaches make a desirable filler in the young apple orchard. They come 
into bearing early and serve their period of usefulness by bringing in a 
crop'from the vacant spaces before the apple trees need all the room 
Is Fall The Best Time To Set Trees? 
Labor Shortage May Alter the Time to Plant the Young Apple Orchard 
T HE eastern farmer inclined to 
fruit growing is confronted at this 
time of year with the question of 
setting- an orchard—or more orchard, 
and especially whether he shall go 
about it in the spare time of Fall, or 
risk getting this work done in the rush 
of other Spring work. Probably he has 
already let several Aprils go by as “too 
busy,” and in this case is the more 
ready to listen to sound advice with 
reference to fall planting. 
One hindrance to general Fall orchard 
setting has been the persistent and 
foolish statement of the itinerant “tree 
agent” that it was by far the best 
time. The intelligent orchardist knows 
it is not “the best,” nor even as good 
a time as April for transplanting, yet 
because of the great leisure to do a 
thorough job, late September to early 
October is a highly favorable time, and 
there should be very few lost trees. 
But let the careless worker be warned 
—if he won’t take pains he should 
never transplant anything in the Fall 
but fence posts. 
A great deal has been said about 
nurserymen “stripping” their Fall- 
lifted trees of leaves—that it was a 
very grave damage, and so forth, but 
this is nonsense. Vigorous growing 
stock will not drop their own leaves 
until some time in November and as 
‘early Fall transplanting is three times 
as favorable for a tree as late Fall 
transplanting, stripping is inevitable. 
Otherwise the evaporation from cling¬ 
ing leaves would soon shrivel the young 
wood. It is the nurseryman’s business 
to know his busines, including the care 
of young, tendeb trees. 
The early Fall-set tree should throw 
new, “white” roots several inches in 
length before Winter, and such a tree 
will never Winter kill. 
It is the late-set, carelessly set tree 
that dry-freezes dead—from zero gales 
of mid-Winter. If its root connections 
are so established before hard freezing 
weather that the top is well supplied 
with moisture it is sure to live. 
Properly speaking, there is no such 
thing as “preparation of the land” for 
Fall setting orchards. The more it is 
plowed and harrowed, the surer it is 
to Winter wash and become gullied. 
This is presupposing that the land is 
more or less on a slant as it should be. 
Like any other field going into winter 
quarters, the surface should he 
thoroughly protected by some cover 
crop. In Spring setting we throw out 
three deep furrows along each tree 
tow to save hand digging. We never 
dare do this in Fall, however, the holes 
are all hand dug and hand filled. 
The Layout 
As to general planting distances and 
the question of fillers, it is not safe to 
specifically advise. When we began 
planting (almost thirty years ago) 33 
feet was the standard, and ten years 
ago 40 feet was advised by leading- 
growers almost everywhere. At the 
present time, the permanent distances 
advised by experienced orchardists of 
southern New England and New York 
State are all above 40 feet, and they 
sometimes name 48 or even 50 feet, 
though we consider these extreme. 
There ought to be room on an acre for 
By DAVID STONE KELSEY 
30 to 36 standard apple trees according 
to variety. 
Years ago I saw Baldwin apple trees 
on the upper benches of the Mohawk 
River (southern Saratoga County) with 
a spread of 60 to 68 feet—over seventy- 
five years old and bearing twelve to 
fifteen barrels of magnificent fruit— 
yet I afterwards set a thirty acre 
orchard (in the same county) 28 x 
40 feet standards with an equal number 
of fillers, making the orchard stand 28 
x 20, and never regretted these figures, 
which thin down as follows: 
With fillers 28 x 20, 80 trees per 
acre (allowing for aisles). 
With fillers removed 40 x 28, 40 stand¬ 
ard trees per acre (or 40 x 35 feet if 
every other tree is taken from every 
row, odds from one, evens from next). 
Final stand 56 x 40, 20 trees per 
acre, if they live to need this second 
thinning. 
We are firm believers in the rect¬ 
angular plan exemplified by the above. 
It leaves the trees always in “rows,” 
with room each side for spraying and 
cultivating. In the Connecticut peach 
belt for instance, we set 80 peach 
trees in with these 80 apples, the 
orchard standing 14 x 20 feet—until 
the peach trees are rooted out. Land 
is valuable to us, and time is still mor 2 
valuable—the time of the spraying- 
gang and team as it passes from tree 
to tree, the time of the weekly harrow 
team, and that of the picking and 
packing gang. 
Furthermore, it is natural for all 
trees to grow in clusters, for mutual 
protection against gales, the heaping 
snows of winter, and bare ground — 
swept of snow and fallen leaves. If 
the argument of poor air drainage is 
raised against such thick setting, we 
attend to that in the first place by 
never planting’ even one tree in a frost 
pocket or upon other than sloping, 
well air-drained land. 
The High Points * 
We wish to have our trees for fall 
setting lifted from the nursery rows 
the last ten days of September, and to 
personally see that only trees of mature, 
well-ripened tip buds are then taken. 
These trees must be immediately 
stripped, and without exposing the 
roots to the least drying, packed and 
taken by truck to the field where they 
are to be planted and there -also 
promptly—root puddled ami carefully 
heeled in, no matter when the real 
transplanting is to begin — whether in 
two days or three weeks. 
'this first process is very important. 
Any young tree so lifted, stripped, 
puddled and heeled into warm, moist 
ground will begin to “callous” in a few 
days. This is nature’s process which 
must precede the growth of new, 
white roots so necessary to insure that 
tree’s wintering well in its new location. 
We use the finest clay obtainable, 
cream-thick, for puddling, first, of 
course, smoothly cutting all bruised 
root-ends. 
We try to set trees in every hole 
opened that day so that the soil will 
not be chilled. A planting gang is a 
boss and two helpei’s, one a boy with a 
wheelbarrow carrying trees, their roots 
thoroughly protected. The boss “sets” 
the tree by placing it in position, with 
one hand, where it is held by the 
“wheelbarrow boy” while the other 
assistant shovels in the finest topsoil, 
the boss working carefully among the 
roots with two hands until each is 
well imbedded, and so covered as to 
admit thorough tramping, the final 
operation. The whole taking about two 
minutes, a good gang should so set 
200 trees a day. 
The tree is thus left standing in a 
hollow two or three inches deep and 
about three feet wide which we are in 
no hurry to fill. The warm sun strik¬ 
ing in through October promotes 
callous and new root growth. 
Ultimately however, one pound of 
fine bone or acid phosphate is spread 
about the tree and the whole a little 
more than filled and again tramped 
solid. Besides that, later, a number of 
spades full of solid earth are mounded 
about the tree trunk itself, to hold it 
firmly. 
We never prune a transplanted tree 
until after setting, and never a Fall- 
transplanted tree until Spring. If 
winds and rains loosen the tree trunk 
in the ground at all it is mounded 
again—and more thoroughly. In the 
Spring the tree is early and properly 
cut back, but we are in no hurry to 
level down that “mound,” that is a 
part of the “handwork” in the grow¬ 
ing season. _ 
I will say that I enjoy reading your 
paper very much, as it always has some 
good things in it. I enjoy it also be¬ 
cause there is so much good reading 
in it.—Ray L. Cranston, Alabama, N. Y. 
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