THE LADIES' FLORAL CABINET. 
117 
the delicious peppery flavor of his first dish of Indian 
curry. 
So I find, in looking over the past, that, among other 
marked days, none stands out more clearly or recalls 
more pleasurable, albeit somewhat cramped experiences, 
than the day when I first made acquaintance with the 
kago. It was on this wise : A party of us had made up 
our minds to attack Fujiyama—sacred Fuji, that pride, 
thendoratioa of millions ; that mountain which, whether 
it roars its snow-capped head in virginal purity, or folds 
its ample cloak of soft gray mists about its ponderous 
shoulders, is alike fascinating—nay, sublime. But at the 
last moment vexatious business claimed my attention, 
and the tourists were compelled to set out without me, 
I promising to join them in a few days at the famous 
baths of Miyanoshita, which we agreed to make 
the first halting place. 
So one bright morn¬ 
ing, in early August, 
I ordered out my 
jinrikisha and was 
soon bowling merrily 
along the broad “ To 
Kai Do," that great 
high road of Japan 
which extends un- 
brokenly from Tokio 
to Kiyoto, a distance 
of three hundred 
miles. Coming to the 
banks of the Sakawa 
River we were ferried 
over by stout porters, 
and regaining the 
shore, took our way, 
this time on foot, 
toward Odawara, the 
chief town of that 
province where the 
feudal mansion of the 
Daimio of Olcubo still 
stands, although 
rapidly falling into 
decay and ruin. As 
we entered the town 
it seemed as though 
the whole papulation 
dropped their avoca¬ 
tions, and came to 
stare at us ; the dogs 
sniffed our foot-prints with puzzled air, then 
turned tail and fled, the children hovered at a 
respectful distance aud gazed shyly at the tojin 
(foreigner). We made our way up to the yadoya (inn), 
where were grouped the smiling host, his wife and 
family; as soon as I turned toward the entrance, all 
Prostrated themselves, and knocking their heads re¬ 
peatedly against the ground, gravely saluted us. 
On my inquiring if lcagos could be hired, the master 
of tho house again bowed respectfully, and assured us 
that it was indeed true. 
“ But just now every one is in use. As the honorable 
gentleman doubtless is aware, this is the season of the 
pilgrims. To-day a very large party passed i hrough thi 8 
placo and every kago was immediately occupied, but 
to-morrow ”—' 
“ Yes, yes,” I answered, “ that will do very well; in 
the meantime I remain here.” 
With much pride he led the the way into an enclosure 
of screens fitted up with fine mats, which he designated 
as the best room in the house. 
After a noonday repast I strolled along the principal 
street again, and amused myself with watching the 
people at their daily tasks. Coming back through the 
summer twilight, I shared the evening meal, drank a 
few cups of sake (rice wine) with mine host, listened to 
a performance on the samisen (guitar) from his clieny- 
cheeked daughter, and, at an early hour, sought my 
“ sleeping mat.” After a night of somewhat interrupted 
slumbers, from sundry small reasons, I lustily shouted 
for breakfast and a kago. It was already at the en¬ 
trance, and the bearers were exchanging compliments 
with the chubby kit¬ 
chen maid. 
I looked carefully 
at the vehicle, it was 
nothing m ore nor 
less than a shallow 
round basket, de¬ 
pending, by means of 
jointed bamboo, from 
a stout pole. As I 
gazed, I said to the 
family who had, as is 
usual, accompanied 
me to the entrance 
in order to give me 
“ bon voyage: ” 
“Will some one in¬ 
struct me how to 
dispose of my person 
in that small space ? ” 
Instantly the father 
bowed, advanced, and 
doubling in a mi¬ 
raculous sort of man¬ 
ner, adapted himself 
to the interior of the 
kago as snugly as an 
unfledged bird may 
be supposed to fit it¬ 
self to the inside of 
its shell. Then, un¬ 
doubling rapidly, he 
bowed once more and 
said softly : 
“ Honorable stranger, it is very simple ! ” 
I supposed it was when one had become accustomed to 
the process. 
However, I made the attempt, and succeeded to the 
entire satisfaction of the spectators, who applauded to 
the echo; I may have appeared graceful, but I retain 
doubts upon the subject. I felt cramped for room, my 
only consolation being, that even should the bearers 
stumble, I could not be moved from my position so 
tightly was I wedged in. 
But the bearers advanced, lifted my basket and my¬ 
self, and trotted briskly out of the gateway and through 
the principal street. For a space I was entirely occu¬ 
pied in endeavoring to find a somewhat easier position, 
but after various ineffectual struggles was obliged to 
yield to the inevitable; with a sigh I abandoned all hope 
A Kago. 
