THE LADIES' FLORAL CABINET. 
177 
flower the second year. If you have a good place in the 
house for them, the seed may be taken out of tiie sand 
in January, and sown in pots of light, rich soil; by 
June the plants will be from three to four inches in 
height, when they should be grown on singly iu pots, or 
planted out in the open border. 
Chrysanthemum. —Lottie M. Yes, it is best to sepa¬ 
rate the. clumps in spring, soon as they commence 
growth. Put a single plant in place and cut back twice 
during the summer, the last cutting, about the first of 
August. This will give you fine-shaped plants, with 
large, finely-formed flowers. You must not grow them 
in poor soil, if you wish good flowers. No plant will 
better repay generous treatment. 
Plants in Rooms.— R. H. F., Mount Forrest, Out. 
We do not think that any plant in the living or sleeping- 
room is injurious to the health of any one ; some of the 
conditions in which a plant thrives best may be ; for 
instance : some plants require a humid atmosphere for 
their perfect development, others demand a moist, but 
cool atmosphere, either of which is not suited to 
the human constitution. Any plant that will endure 
atmosphere suited to man’s necessity, is a positive 
benefit to the health of those who cultivate them. Con¬ 
spicuous among that class of plants we notice the Palms 
in great variety, the Ficus Elastica, Cactus, Geraniums, 
etc., etc. Should our correspondent wish a pine, we 
should say, select the Araucaria Excelsa, commonly 
known as the Norfolk Island Pine, which is one of the 
most beautiful evergreens with which we are acquainted. 
Its graceful form rivals that of the Fern, and it isequally 
useful for conservatory decoration, or for the lawn in 
summer. A small plant of the Austrian Pine, or some 
of tbs dwarf growing Arbor Yities, make beautiful con¬ 
servatory plants. 
Hyacinths not Blooming — Helen R. There has been 
a general complaint about all kinds of Bulbs not flower¬ 
ing, during the past winter and spring; the cause of 
failure we cannot give. It is undoubtedly due to some 
unfavorable condition of growth of the bulb, climatic, 
probably. Lily of the Valley has also been to a great 
extent, a failure. 
Rose Bugs.— Florence R. Your only remedy is per¬ 
sistent, uncompromising warfare; the bugs must die, or 
the Roses will. There is no middle ground, and there 
has been no application invented for their destruction 
other than physical force. “ Catch them and kill them,” 
is the only remedy. 
Carnations.— Amateur. Carnations that have flower¬ 
ed during the winter and spring will be of but little use 
hereafter. By planting them very deep, they will some¬ 
times throw out new roots iu the same manner as if 
layered; in that case they will flower moderately well 
during the summer. The better plan is to put out plants 
grown from cuttings taken off in February. 
Flowering plants for large masses.— Suburban Home. 
For a border “one hundred or more feet in length and 
four feet in width,” we know of no plant to compare in 
beauty with the Petunia, particularly the variety known 
as Nana Compacta Multiflora. It is a very compact, 
free-flowering plant, as it name would imply; planted 
out early in May, it will be a mass of bloom the entire 
summer. _ 
Hanging Basket.—Belie R., Detroit. We should 
advise your throwing out all your old plants, and start 
anew, notwithstanding they now look well. It is very 
certain they will not continue to look and do well 
another winter. A basket for winter should be filled 
early in August, and kept in a partially shaded situa¬ 
tion, in order that the plants may get well established 
before taking into the house. 
Bulbs for Winter Flowering.— H. L. P., Brooklyn. 
We cannot advise you as to the best place to secure your 
bulbs for next winter. Any reliable seedsman can 
supply you, and for such we would refer you to our 
advertising columns. 
Gladio us.— M. E. S. For late flowering plant the 
bulbs early iu July, and you will have them in bloom 
about the first of October, and much longer spikes, and 
more perfectly developed flowers than if planted 
early. 
Wild Lily of the Valley.— Rusticus. Yes. The Lily 
of the Valley is indigenous in the high Alleghanies of 
Virginia and southward, the same as the European variety 
so common in our gardens. The species you refer to, 
however, is not Lily of the Valley, but Smilacina bifolia, 
an allied genera. _ 
Tuberoses.— A Victim. We have grown Tuberoses 
iu large quantities for many years, and do not know 
of eight varieties. There is the common double, the 
Pearl, which is dwarf, and a sport from ^the above; 
the single, which is the type, and a single with varie¬ 
gated foliage. All other varieties, so called, are imagin¬ 
ary creations for purposes of sale. 
Day Lily.— C. C. C. The botanical name of this plant 
is Funkia Subcordata. It is a native of Japan, and was 
introduced into English gardens in 1790. 
Begonias in Summer — Constant Reader. Begonias 
in summer should have a cool, shaded situation. The 
best plan we have ever seen adopted, was a small lattice 
house, made entirely out of laths placed half an inch 
apart, sides and top alike; benches were arranged on 
either side, the same as in an ordinary green-house, 
upon these the plants were placed, and all the interstices 
filled with sphagnum. There the plants thrived most 
luxuriantly; we have never seen green-house plants in 
summer look better, if as well. Not only was this the 
congenial home of the Begonia, but all kind's of Ferns, 
Coleus, and many other plants, grown expressly for ex¬ 
hibition purposes, were here to be seen in the best possi¬ 
ble condition. This was the work of an amateur, and 
when his plants were placed beside those of the profes¬ 
sional florist, the latter was completely used up. 
Neapolitan Violet.— Amateur. Your situation is en¬ 
tirely unsuited to this plant, which requires a hgavy, 
moist soil. You have kept it dry and hot, when it 
should have been kept moist and cool. 
