574 
FOREST AND STREAM 
Catch Them 
H ERE’S the way to get coon, fox, 
mink and skunk: Pour 3-in-One 
on your traps when setting them. 
Experience proves that the delicate 
odor of 
3-in-One oil 
draws fur bearing animals better than 
bait. Keeps traps in splendid condi¬ 
tion, too. Prevents rust—makes them 
lively, strong, sure. Fine to keep them rust-1 
proof through the summer. Oils guns just right. | 
Prevents leading and pitting. 
3 -in-One is sold in sporting goods stores, hardware, drug | 
and general stores. 1 oz. bottle, 10 c; 3 oz., 25 c; 8 oz. 
0/2 pt.) 50 c. Also non-leak Handy Oil Cans, just right for 
carrying, 3*/2 oz., 25 c. If you do not find these cans at 
your dealer's, we will send one, by parcel post, full of 
3 -in-One for 30 c. 
FREE— Write for a free sample and Dictionary of uses. 
Three-in-One Oil Co., 
Broadway, New York 
W\ 
' \ 
fit 
3j>> 
Sportsmen’s 
Emergency 
Ne versslip 
Ligature 
‘‘NSS” Ligatures are Sterilized, Sealed, Indestructa-Jar, 
Ties an Artery or split t ) sew a wound. Parcels Post 50c 
50 
HUSTON BROS. 
E. RANDOLPH STREET 
CO. 
CHICAGO, ILL. 
NOTES ON ARROW MAKING 
By Z. E. Jackson 
(Continued from June 21st, 1913.) 
C Owing to loss of copy this interesting and instructive article has 
been unavoidably delayed 
T HERE are numerous methods of gluing the 
vane to the shaft. One is by temporarily 
wrapping them on with thread. This is 
the poorest possible method and unworkmanlike. 
Another way is by placing the vane between the 
leaves of a clamp such as would be formed by 
an ordinary butt hinge and pressing the glue- 
covered surface of the bone against the shaft. 
This requires too much manipulation, is uncer¬ 
tain in adhesive results and clumsy to a degree. 
I have a mechanical device made by myself 
■which will feather any arrow perfectly but any 
mechanical device requires so many different 
manipulations that it appeals only to those who 
lack the skill required to do the work properly 
without mechanical aids. The best plan for the 
skilled workman is to simply pick up the feather, 
apply glue to the contact surface of the bone, 
and stick it in position, but the knack only 
comes with long, patient practice and is fully 
as difficult as is the foregoing statement simple. 
For the benefit of advanced arrow makers, I 
beg to state, however, that it is the best way to 
feather arrows, and from every viewpoint it is 
best. It requires no preparatory manipulation 
01 the feather, the result is satisfying, and the 
operation brief. I might say that in feathering 
my first arrows I resorted to the plan of wrap¬ 
ping them on with thread, which held them in 
position while the glue dried. It required two 
hours to feather a single arrow and the result 
was anything but satisfactory. Years afterward, 
on one occasion, by following the plan of sim¬ 
ply "sticking them on,” I feather an even dozen 
arrows in thirteen minutes. For the purpose of 
this article and of those for whose benefit it is 
written, I assert the following method of attach¬ 
ing the feathers to the shaft to be the best. If 
instructions have been followed to date the bone 
of the wing will extend at right angles from the 
vane about 1-40 of an inch and the thickness of 
the bone at the point of contact with the shaft 
described as “A” will be about the same. The 
bone will extend beyond each end of the vane 
of an inch. A supply of bead-beaded steel 
pins about I Ye, inches in length should be se¬ 
cured. One pin is passed through the extension 
of the bone at the nock end of the vane, the 
point of the pin barely passing through the bone, 
Another pin is passed 1-16 of an inch through 
the extension of bone on the opposite or pile end 
of the vane, but instead of being at right angles 
with the axle of the bone, as is the first pin, 
it is placed at an angle of about 45 deg., slant¬ 
ing toward the nock end of the vane. The glue 
is then applied in small quantities to the sur¬ 
face of the bone, which will rest upon the shaft, 
in doing which a small sliver of wood serves 
the purpose better than a glue brush. The cock 
feather, being the one which is placed at right 
angles with the string notch, is the first to be 
applied and so placed that the distance between 
the extreme nock end of the shaft and the end 
of the vane is inches. While held in that 
position pin number 1 is pressed home. This 
will necessitate pressing the pin into the fiber 
nock, but that may be readily done. Pin num¬ 
ber 2, which has been hanging in the loose end 
of the bone, is then grasped, the feather drawn 
taut, and the point of pin number 2, which pro¬ 
trudes through the bone 1-16 of an inch, is 
pressed slightly into the shaft, being careful to 
still retain the 45 deg. angle. When the foot¬ 
ing has been thus secured, pin number 2 is 
brought to a position at right angles with the 
axis of the shaft and pressed home. It will be 
noted that this operation secures a leverage which 
stretches the bone of the feather tight against 
the shaft and forces out any surplus glue. If 
the work is carefully performed there will be no 
surplus glue. The other two feathers are placed 
on the shaft in the same manner, being careful 
to accurately divide the total circumference of 
the shaft into three equal parts. This division 
may be made with the aid of instruments, lay¬ 
ing off the different points of contact, but that 
is unnecessary labor. Practice will enable the 
workman to space those distances instantly by 
the eye and so accurately that they will not 
vary the distance of one of the holes made by 
NEWFOUNDLAND AnEi,,r 
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the pin point. One hour is sufficient time to per¬ 
mit the drying of the glue, after which the pins 
are removed, the bone extension at the nock end 
is cut off square, and the extension at the other 
end is trimmed to a feather edge with the 
feather knife. The very best glue used for at¬ 
taching the feathers is made of equal parts of 
the best commercial glue and Russian isinglass. 
Do not confuse isinglass with mica. The one 
is animal while the other is mineral matter. The 
isinglass, after being cut with shears into small 
bits, is soaked for two days in sufficient water 
to cover it, together with the commercial glue, 
to which should be added brandy, quantity suf¬ 
ficient. It is then brought to a boil in an or¬ 
dinary glue pot in a water bath. Brandy must 
be added from time to time as needed and small 
quantities of the glue cooked up as needed. Not¬ 
withstanding the use of brandy the glue ferments 
within a few days and gives off a very offensive 
odor. The Russian isinglass costs from 40c. to 
60c. an ounce and may be secured from the 
large drug houses. It is, however, not expen¬ 
sive because of the great bulk in a given weight. 
The entire arrow is next varnished from nock 
to pile with thin varnish, being careful to lay 
the varnish well over the glue joint formed by 
the union of the feather and shaft but keep it 
from coming in contact with the vane of the 
feather. If it does, the varnish will creep up 
the vanes, make them stiff and mar the looks 
After this coat of varnish has thoroughly dried 
it is again cut down with the fine steelwool; the 
uniform weight of the arrows being maintained. 
The shaftment, being the space between a point 
15-16 of an inch from the extreme nock end to 
a point 4?4 inches from the extreme nock end 
is then painted any desired color, in doing 
which the paint is laid up on and over the bone 
of the feather but not permitted to touch the 
vane. This is best done with a small round 
brush in which the bristles are about a half inch 
long, ending in a point. The crest is then 
painted on, using one wide band and several nar¬ 
row ones or two or more wide ones, lined with 
a color different from any used in the crest. 
The lining is best done in a lathe but can be 
accomplished by laying the arrow in a notch cut 
in the work bench and twirling it with one hand 
while applying the paint lines with the other. For 
lining, I find a very fine pointed brush the easiest 
to handle. The band nearest the nock end i* 
about 3-16 of an inch wide leaving the final Y 
inch of the nock end bare of paint. The ap¬ 
pearance is, however, fully preserved by the con¬ 
trast between the wood of the shaft and tht red 
fiber nock. 
After the paint has dried the entire arrow i* 
again varnished with a coat of varnish that has 
not been thinned, and after that has dried the 
arrow is again rubbed down with the fine steel- 
wool and polished with a dry woolen cloth 
Such an arrow will look well, fly true, and live 
leng. 
Hunting arrows are made of hickory 11-32 of 
an inch in diameter and 28 inches long. It is 
not necessary to foot them nor to reinforce the 
string notch with a nock. The feathers are 
stripped from the bone instead of being cut. Un¬ 
less properly stripped, small particles of pith will 
adhere to the skin of bone that remains attached 
to the vane. To avoid this, take the feather just 
as it leaves the bird, grasp it at the outer or 
vane end with thumb and finger of left hand. 
