IONIA, 
MICHIGAN 
5 
DISBUDDING FOR LARGE OR EXHIBITION FLOWERS— 
There is no trick or secret in disbudding to get the large 
blooms one sees at the shows, or in the gardens of the Pro¬ 
fessional grower, it is all so Mery simple, if directions will be 
followed. When the buds begin to appear at the tip of the 
branch,' they usually appear in clusters of three and when 
these are about the size of a pea, we take out the two sidp 
ones, and leave the center bud to grow alone. If by chance one 
of the side buds is larger, or looks healthier than the center 
one, then take out the center bud, and the weakest or smaller 
of the side buds. With this done we then stay on this branch 
and go down to the last set of leaves on this same branch, and 
take out thje two small branohes, or laterals as they are called. 
These, as a rule, are small, as they are just beginning to 
sprout out from the node, or joint where the leaf is growing 
from. We do this right down on all of the leaves on this one 
branch until we get down to the last set of leaves; these we 
allow to grow. This not only gives a large flower, but also a 
longer and stronger stem. Continue this application on all side 
stems of thie plant. 
SPRAYING— 
During the hot days of summer, insects or pests such as 
Aphids, Thrips, Leaf Hoppers, Green Flies, Cucumber Beetles, 
etc., are more or less prevalent and dahlia plants are generally 
attacked by them. If any of these pests should be noticted 
on or around the plants they should be sprayed at once with a 
good insecticide. It is generally best to spray before any in¬ 
sects appear rather than to wait until they make their presence 
known. In the latter case, many times, the plants are so de¬ 
bilitated or stuqted from the ravages of these pests that spray¬ 
ing will be of little help. We have found the best way to hold 
these pests in check is to start spraying the plants at regular 
intervals of about two weeks, starting in when the plants are 
about six inches high. We are using Red Arrow. 
DIGGING THE BULBS— 
Late in the Fall after heavy frost has blackened the tops. 
Dahlias should be dug and removed to a frost proof cellar for 
storage during the winter. The digging must be done very care¬ 
fully as the single bulb planted; in the Spring will now have 
made a large clump. The clump should be loosened from all 
sides and then carefully lifted, taking great care so as not to 
break the necks of the bulbs. Any cellar that potatoes can be 
stored in successfully Will be all right for Dahlias. They must 
be kept cool and away from heat, otherwise they will start to 
grow again if the cellar is too warm. If the cellar is equipped 
with a furnace, the bulbs should be removed as far as pos¬ 
sible from the heat, and covered over with some light material 
•such as straw, sand or sawdust. Soil is all right provided! it is 
dry. 
DIVIDING THE CLUMPS— 
In the Spring as soon as the eyes or sprouts begin to show 
the clumps should be divided. To do this, first split the clumps 
by cutting through the stalk with a good strong pocket knife 
or short bladed butcher knife if you have one. Then cut each 
half in two, trying to divide the builbs so that each one will 
hav/e a piece of the stalk with an eye or sprout attached to the 
bulb. The eyes are all formed! around the base of the stalk, 
there being nonie on the bulbs, so in dividing, great care must 
be used to see that' each bulb has a piece of stalk with pin 
eye on it attached to the bulb, otherwise they will not grow. 
