Golden Rule Dahlia Farm , Lebanon, Ohio 
and better and larger flowers throughout the season. Most of the varieties we offer 
in this catalogue will naturally produce large flowers without disbudding, but if not 
disbudded the later flowers may become smaller and with open centers. With faithful 
disbudding a constant succession of nice large blooms may be had. Cut off the old 
blooms as soon as the backs become unsightly. This stimulates the plant to produce 
new buds more rapidly and promptly. 
Storing of Dahlia Roots 
S OME have trouble keeping their roots over the winter. Others have no trouble 
at all. We believe that the greatest loss of roots is caused by their becoming over 
dried during the first few days or weeks after digging. We recommend that they 
be not dug too soon after an early frost. November 1st is normally soon enough. Watch 
the weather and if dry postpone digging for a while. If abnormally heavy rains start 
after frost, dig to avoid possible root rot. Call on us at digging time and see how 
we do it. It may pay you. A few lose their roots because of poor methods of digging 
and do not realize it. 
It is not necessary to cut the tops off before digging. Dig carefully around the 
Dahlia plants, finally removing each clump with a good ball of earth. Cut the stem 
off short and dust it well with powdered sulphur or sulphur containing a little lime. 
Do not expose the roots for any length of time to a drying wind or sun. Prompt action 
in following these directions may prevent loss of roots. Store preferably in a cool 
basement near the floor but not in a wet place. If basement is warm, store roots as 
far away from heat as possible and protect the clumps by packing in peat moss, sand, 
ashes, leaves, or sawdust and cover the whole container well, placing it as near the 
floor as possible. A little sulphur mixed with packing material is good to prevent 
mildew. The container should be large enough to hold the clumps together with four 
to six inches of packing on each side, underneath and on the top. 
If one has a successful method of storing Dahlia roots, we do not recommend 
changing. Inspection of the roots at weekly intervals during November and December 
will often enable one to anticipate loss. 
Fertilizing 
W HEN Fertilizing at planting time, take care that fertilizer does not come into 
contact with or near the tuber or plant. 
Plant in a good productive soil. See that the soil contains each season a good 
proportion of humus. Rye sowed each fall after Dahlias are dug and spaded or plowed 
under when of suitable height in the spring will liven the soil and provide some humus. 
Well rotted manure is good and should be be applied in the fall or winter. 
Be sure to use a balanced ration of fertilizer. A 3% nitrogen, 10% Phosphate, 
and 6% potash (3-10-6) is an excellent formula for Dahlias, which may be used 
sparingly at planting, about a tablespoonful well mixed with a peck of dirt to each 
hill: or may be applied at three week intervals as top dressing starting in July and 
worked into the top soil between the plants, using about a small handful to each hill. 
Twenty-five pounds per season for 100 dahlias is about right. 
Bone meal or wood ashes may be mixed with any fertilizer. 
Dahlias require moderate Nitrogen only, not more than 3%, but will take plenty 
of phosphates and potash, if not applied too strongly at any one time, and will respond 
vigorously. 
The reason for the uniformly healthy stocky growth at our farm, is balanced 
fertilizing, no over fertilizing and a situation open to sun and wind. The various 
varieties of small sucking insects also tend to shorten the growth of Dahlia bushes, 
and incidentlv, to increase the root crop. Sheltering buildings and trees, shade, rich 
soil, and artificial watering tend to make Dahlia bushes grow tall. 
For run down soil we recommend rotted manure and fertilizer before planting; 
also the fertilizer top dressings as described above. 
Fresh manure of any kind should not be used. 
