HARDY VINES 
V’iiies are as necessary for shade and beauty in their 
way, as trees, shrubs, and perennials. They lend beauty 
to every scene, when properly selected and placed, by 
their grace and outline and sweeping drapery, and aside 
from the beauty inherent in themselves may be made 
doubly effective by concealing all unsightly and ugly 
places. 
Vines will turn a stone wall, or a stone pile, or dead 
stump, into a mound of charming beauty. Trained into 
a dead or dying tree, and hanging in festoons from its 
branches, they form a picture that varies in its charm 
with every change of light and every passing breeze. 
On fences or lattices they make a frame for the entire 
back yard, a screen for the service yard or vegetable 
garden, or they may enclose a back yard living or play 
room. 
Trained over old out-buildings, such as stables, 
which still remain on many places, or sheds, vines make 
beautiful an otherwise unsightly place. 
Grown’ng on fences, or wires strung on posts, they 
make a most attractive boundary line. 
Trained over the porch or summer house, they afford 
shelter from sun and storm, as well as seclusion. 
On arbors they furnish shade and beauty. Trained 
over pergolas (which must always “lead somewhere’' to 
be in good taste) they lend beauty and shade and color, 
and make entirely delightful with lights and shadows the 
covered pathway. 
Trained over the walls of old houses, vines change 
many an architectural failure into a thing of graceful 
lines and curves. 
Vines impart an air of age and permanency that is 
impossible without them. Their wealth of green is balm 
to tired, dust-laden eyes in mid-summer, and soothing to 
the nerves What is more delightful on a hot afternoon, 
than to enter a back yard neatly grassed, and enclosed 
with vines growing over fences, lattices, arbors and 
summer houses? 
In decorating the yard, begin with vines and end with 
them. They take up no room, rather they furnish the 
background of the planting, like the back curtain of the 
theater. They emphasize and reflect the values of 
shrubs and plants. They finish the landscaping, as wall 
decorations and window draperies complete the furnish¬ 
ings in the house. The room with bare walls and un¬ 
draped windows never looks complete. Neither does the 
home without vines. 
But to get good results in this exterior decorating it is 
necessary to know something of vines and their proper 
uses. Some are better than others for porches, fences, 
arbors, lattices, pergolas, etc., built of wood; others are 
best adapted to buildings, walls, porch pillars, columns, 
etc., built of stone, brick or concrete. They are suitable 
for this purpose because they cling naturally to the ma¬ 
terial by means of aerial roots, as does the Bignonia or 
Scarlet Trumpet Vine, or tendril discs that attach the 
vine firmly and hold it in place, like the Ampelopsis 
Veitchi. 
Then there are vines like the Matrimony Vine, that 
grow down on walls and on banks of earth, and make 
good ground covers, and the vines with beautiful blos¬ 
soms that are best for arbors and pergolas. 
There is a vine for every use, and in our carefully 
selected list there will be found varieties for every pos¬ 
sible situation. 
Climbing Roses, which are among the very best vines 
for pergolas, arches, doorways and many other places, 
are described in the Rose section of this catalog; and 
Grapes, which are among the best for fences, arbors, 
lattices and similar situations—furnishing fruit as well 
as serving other purposes—are listed in the Fruit sec¬ 
tion. 
When planting vines to cover walls, plant at least 2 
feet from the waU, because near the wall the earth often 
contains broken stones and rubble, and rubbish without 
plant food. When the shoots get a 2 or 3 feet start, dig 
a 3 inch-deep trench for each shoot, from the root to the 
wall, in various directions, and bury the shoots in the 
trenches, letting the ends come up in the shape of an 
open fan just at the base of the wall. This does four 
things; it permits mowing without danger of cutting the 
shoots or branches at their base; it permits the roots to 
get more moisture from the roof and from rain; it gives 
the roots better soil and more room to expand; it 
strengthens the root system also, because shoots that 
are buried under ground will put out rootlets, and be¬ 
come part of the root system. This is decidedly the best 
way to plant vines for walls and buildings. It is a valu¬ 
able point to remember. 
Ampelopsis Veitchi —See Ivy. 
Bignonia Radicans or Trumpet Flower. A strong, 
robust, hardy vine, growing 15 to 20 feet, with light 
green foliage. It has showy, orange-red, trumpet¬ 
shaped blossoms 5 or 6 inches long, in clusters at the 
tips of the branches, that begin to come in July and 
continue for several weeks. The vine has fine, very 
stout aerial roots along its branches which will cling 
to any material when they can find an opening for 
a foothold. Will cling solidly to brick or stone walls 
if they are old or are rough enough; will twine around 
the gutter pipes, around posts and pillars; will cover 
almost any material, and is one of our most decora¬ 
tive vines, exceedingly long-lived. A magnificent 
vine on rocks, posts, heavy trellises, etc. 
Birthwort. See Dutchman’s Pipe. 
Bittersweet, Celastrus Scandens. A hardy rapid 
growing native vine. Its small yellow flowers, in addi¬ 
tion to the berries, which hang aU winter, form a com¬ 
bination that makes this one of the most popular 
vines. The large clusters of orange-red berries are 
usually cut off and used to brighten the home in 
winter. 
<_1HINESE Vt IS'l'EKI A—Our VI isteria vines blossom young as 
they are grown by grafting scions from vines that produce 
flowers in abundance each year. 
