GUIDEBOOK FOR 1938 
Page 27 
show. Ohio, ’32, Grand Champ., Conn., 
’35. Grants Pass, N.E.G.S. and Grand 
Champion (Mrs. Pease, driving bravely 
14 hrs., all night, alone from 30 miles east 
of Cleveland to Springfield) Ill., all ’36. 
A.G.S., C.G.S., N.E.G.S., Metro., E.S.G. 
S., Hamilton (Dist.), Ind., Mich., la., 
Winnipeg and Calgary, all ’37. Another 
impressive list. L. 06(100,4.00) M.04 
(100,2.50) 8.02(100,1.25) Bits (100,.15-M, 
1 . 00 ) 
OUR SELECTION 98 *—tt« Exh. Salmon 
red, flaked slate, cerise blotch on cream. 
A flowerhead even longer than Mother 
Machree but stem not so long. Florets 
evenly placed in double row, 10-16 open. 
A very trustworthy performer. Champion 
spike Winnipeg, ’31. Most open (18) 
No. Dak., ’32. N.E.G.S., ’32. Champion 
bloom Ballarat, ’32, and Malvern (Austra¬ 
lia), ’35. Wash., ’35. (Am.) N.E.G.S., ’36 
and ’37. C.G.S., ’36. Yakima, Winnipeg 
and all 4 shows la., including Grand 
Champion at the Cedar Rapids show, 
’37. L.06(100,4.00) 
VAGABOND PRINCE 97 fft Exh. Irri- 
descent, garnet brown, lighter in upper 
throat, small flame scarlet blotch below. 
8-10 open. The color combination is very 
attractive, as well as unusual. If you like 
striking, novelty color combinations, we 
suggest you waste no time acquiring this 
one. The only “A” rated glad in the “Any 
Other Color’’ section, C.G.S. Symposium. 
Metro, and Ames (la.), ’37. L.50 M.30 
S.20 Bits (1000,24.00) 
® ^ ^ 
IMPORTANT NOTICE 
For detailed Cultural information. Soil 
acidity. Insect pests. Bulb diseases, Thrips, 
Ethylene dichloride and other formulas, we 
refer you to pages 26-30 of our 1937 Guide 
Book. However, the vitally important in¬ 
formation is restated here. 
LEAD YOUR FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS 
— HOW TO DO IT 
Simple as can be. Inexpensive, too. Plant 
healthy, young bulbs of the large size of 
varieties currently winning first prizes in the 
major shows of the world. Soil prepared in 
the fall with heavy applications of well rotted 
cow manure and bone meal is excellent. Avoid 
horse manure in any season. Plant in the sun¬ 
niest location possible. Shelter from strong 
winds is desirable. Preferably in a group 
planting by themselves. 
Do not make them compete with other 
roots of trees, shrubs or weeds. Cultivate 
often and close, keeping surface loose. If the 
garden plot was not fertilized the previous 
fall with a slow acting fertilizer apply none 
whatever until plants are six to eight inches 
high. Use then and every few weeks there¬ 
after until blooming, if you wish, any quick 
acting fertilizer with approximately “4-12-4” 
per cent of content of nitrogen, phosphate 
and potash, respectively. Sprinkle it spar¬ 
ingly (a handful to 25 or more bulbs), several 
inches away from the plants. Scratch it in 
and soak to saturation. If you wish, when 
the buds first emerge from the foliage, substi¬ 
tute a few similar dressings of dried blood or 
a single similar dressing of ammonium sul¬ 
phate. Soak the ground heavily the day be¬ 
fore so that the plant will be saturated and in 
strong growing condition, thus withstanding 
a shock which might otherwise burn off the 
rootlets, turn the foliage yellow and stop 
further growth. 
Particularly in hot weather, spikes which 
are cut when but one or two florets are open, 
fill out with more open at a time when bloom¬ 
ed indoors in the light but not sunlight, away 
from any breeze, making better exhibition 
spikes and preventing any fading of color such 
as is sometimes found in some of the finest 
orange scarlets, as well as preventing wilting 
of varieties without strong substance. Cut 
stem slantwise to provide larger drinking area 
and place in water at once to avoid air pockets 
in stem. Allow three or four leaves to remain 
on the plant to mature the new bulb which is 
hardly half grown when spike is cut. At least 
six more weeks are needed to mature the bulb, 
except where blooms are from large bulbs of 
very late sorts. 
“7 am having trouble with my blooms hi a garden along 
the south fence. Practically all the blooms seem to want 
to face the fence instead of out to the lawn. Is there any 
way we can set the bulbs at planting time to avoid this? 
Or do anything else.?" 
Note: We fear we insulted this party by 
suggesting a garden along the north fence 
where, it turned out, he had a concrete drive. 
DON’TS ON DIGGING 
Do not leave part of stem on bulb, cut 
close and burn the tops. 
Do not leave bulbs to dry where frosts can 
reach. 
Do not pile deeply. Quick drying (not in 
hot sunlight) is extremely important to pre¬ 
vent spread of diseases in storage. 
Do not remove roots and old bulb for some 
weeks unless old bulb is soft or shows decay. 
Wait until they separate with ease and 
without tearing the new root base. This 
waiting period is the most desirable time for 
sprinkling your bulbs lightly with napthalene 
flakes. See paragraph on that subject. 
