Proven Berry Plants i i KNOTT’S BERRY PLACE 
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Trees and Vines 
an equal application again when the first 
crop begins to thin out, usually around 
the first of May, gives wonderful re¬ 
sults on many soils. On small plant¬ 
ings this would be at the rate of ten to 
fifteen pounds per hundred feet of row. 
If manure is to be used in the straw¬ 
berry bed or field; and there is nothing 
better; it should be scattered in the fur¬ 
rows between the rows early in the win¬ 
ter so the rains can carry it down, and 
so that it will be cultivated in and all 
out of the way, by the time irrigation 
starts in the spring, and this is very 
early for the early varieties of straw¬ 
berries. 
CONSTBUCTINGr THE TBEI.I.IS 
Trellising —It pays to use posts made 
from the kinds of wood which is known 
to last well in the ground. In California, 
Redwood is the best material for posts. 
Do not use pine, for many of the posts 
will rot off in one year and will cause 
you no end of trouble later. All lumber 
dealers either have in stock, or can order 
6 ft. 2"x2" split redwood grape stakes, 
which make the best and most economical 
posts for berry trellises. Split stakes or 
posts are better than sawed posts be¬ 
cause they do not have knots. They are 
already sharpened and can be driven in 
soft ground. 
Use heavy end posts and stretch the 
wires the length of the rows. The end 
posts should be anchored or well braced, 
for all of the pull comes on them and the 
wires should be tight. It is better to tie 
your wire around the end posts than to 
staple it. On the inside posts it is better 
to set them corner-wise with the row, 
and saw notches about an inch deep, 
slanting down, for the wires to rest in. 
The lower wii-e should be on one side of 
the post and the upper wire on the other. 
This makes a cheap durable trellis, which 
is easy to take down. If you wish (as 
often happens) your trellis to be higher 
after the first year, all you have to do 
is to saw notches higher on the posts 
and raise the wires up, and there will be 
no staples to pull. 
We space the redwood posts about 30 
feet apart. After the wire is stretched 
and fastened up to the posts where we 
want it, we put a spreader between each 
post. This consists of two lathes, one 
on each side of the wires, with a small 
nail driven through them and clinched 
just below each wire. This prevents the 
wires from sagging or being drawn to¬ 
gether when the canes are wound up on 
them. We use No. 13 galvanized wire on 
top, and No. 14, below. 
For raspberries No. 16 galvanized wire 
is large enough. 
No. 13 wire goes about 45 feet to the 
pound; No. 14 about 52 feet, and No. 16 
about 70 feet per pound. 
For blackberries, Loganberries, Young- 
berries and Boysenberries, we make our 
trellis one wire above the other with top 
wire from 3l^ to 4% feet high, accord¬ 
ing to how long and how heavy the vines 
are and the lower wire about 2 feet from 
the ground. 
For raspberries, we use crossarms with 
two light wires about one foot apart. The 
crossarms are nailed to the posts at 
whatever height seems to support the 
canes best according to how high they 
are. The raspberry canes simply are pre¬ 
vented from falling down when they get 
heavy. 
PLACING VINES ON TRELLIS 
This picture shows the method we use 
in trellising up vine berries, including 
Boysenberries, Youngberries, Logan- 
This bush happened to have only five canes, all of which were long ones. If your 
bushes have more strong canes it is advantageous to leave more canes per hill. 
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