««« HOSES 
Roses need sunshine, but it is not necessary that they be exposed 
to the sun all day; half a day of sunshine is sufficient, either morning 
or afternoon. 
To prepare the beds, remove one spade-depth of soil and pile it 
on one side. This is “topsoil.” Then remove a second spade-depth 
and pile it on the other side. This is “subsoil,” to be taken away. 
This makes a trench 18 inches deep. Rose roots seldom go deeper. 
Loosen the bottom of the trench with a spading-fork. Refill the 
trench with the topsoil, mixing it with a liberal amount of old 
manure, then finish the bed with good garden soil. 
When planting Roses, always carry the plants in a bucket of 
water. Prune the roots by shortening the long ones and making 
fresh cuts at the ends of the others. Dig a hole deep and wide enough 
to accommodate the roots naturally and without crowding. Work 
very fine soil between the roots and refill the hole a little at a time, 
always packing the soil hard on the roots. When the hole is three- 
quarters full, pound the soil with your heels and all your weight, 
then pour in plenty of water. When the water has disappeared, put 
soil in to the normal level, but do not pack any more. Prune the 
tops of the plants at about 4 to 5 inches above soil-level; this is 
extremely important. (See marginal sketch.) 
Cultural Hints 
WATERING. Roses like plenty of water. Flood the beds once a week 
by placing the hose on the bed and letting it run slowly so that water may 
reach deep to the roots. Avoid wetting the foliage, especially in the evening. 
SPENT BLOOMS should be removed, cutting the stem above the first 
complete set of five leaves. If long-stemmed blooms are desired for cutting, 
remove old flowers so that two sets of leaves remain on the stalk. The next 
crop of blooms will spring from these eyes. 
FERTILIZERS. No fertilizer of any nature should be applied the first year 
of planting. Roots are not yet in condition to consume it, and it may do a great 
deal of harm to young fibrous roots which have to be formed after transplanting. 
Later a mixed or “complete” fertilizer, as sold under various trade-marks, 
and equivalent to 1 part nitrogen, 2 or 3 parts phosphoric acid, and 1 or 2 parts 
of potash, is preferable to any single one of these products. Apply very lightly 
(a teaspoonful per plant) but often, and water liberally after each application. 
PRUNING everblooming climbers (Blaze, New Dawn, etc.) should not be 
done during the growing season because remontance (subsequent blooming) 
comes out of the first top eye under the previous cluster of blooms. Spent 
blooms may be pinched off but the flower-bearing stems must not be shortened 
or it will stop reblooming. 
RIGHT 
A Hybrid Tea 
Rose pruned high 
in spring. 
The result of high 
pruning. Bure legs — 
tall growth. 
A Hybrid Tea 
pruned low in 
spring. 
Result of close 
pruning. Low, compact 
—large flowers. 
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