Howard & smith 
Z' 1200 Beverly Blvd. 
Montebello, Co.lif. 
RETURN POSTAGE GUARANTEED 
u. 
S. Department of Agriculture, 
Washington, D. C. 
Bureau of Plant Industry 
Fruit and Vegetable Crops and Diseases ®''® 8—3691 
Ar. 
This is your copy of WHAT AND WHEN TO PLANT, Howard <& Smith's Rose Bulletin, Winter, 1938. 
The Planting and Care of Roses —Some Simple but' Important Requisites for Success 
Rose eulture is an easy matter, with scareely a chance of failure if a few simple requirements are complied with. No subject responds more generously 
to good treatment. Obviously the first essential is to obtain good, strong, low-budded, held-grown plants of select varieties, since a wrong beginning in 
this respect can be corrected only by starting anew, with loss of time, labor, money and enjoyment. 
Care of plants upon arrival: As soon as you receive the plants remove the various materials in which they are packed for shipment, excepting, 
however, the damp sphagnum moss about the roots. This should he left on until the plants are ready for placing in their final growing quarters. If you 
live in a locality where the ground does not freeze, as for example certain portions of the Southern States or the lower latitudes of the Pacific Slope, the 
moss should he removed at once and the plants placed in the bed where they are to grow. 
In the more northerly sections, where the ground is frozen and planting out impracticable, 
remove, as above all the packing except the moss around the roots and bury the plants to the 
tops in a cold frame. If a cold frame is not available, the dirt floor of an outhuilding, such as 
a shed or cool cellar, will answer. In any instance cover the plants completely with soil. Select 
a position where there is plenty of light, hut not direct sunlight and no artificial heat what¬ 
ever. As soon as Spring breaks and it is possible to wmrk the soil, plant them out in the garden. 
If the i)lants are to he buried, as suggested in the preceding paragraphs, it is advisable to wrap 
them in a piece of ordinary window screen, to guard against the attacks of mice, etc. 
Location of beds: Roses give the best results in fully exposed, sunny situations where free 
circulation of air is assured, and if possible, well removed from any buildings. It is inadvisable 
to plant tliem in even partial shade, as lack of sunlight induces leaf mildew in dull weather. 
Soil: Much has been said regarding the soil best adapted to Roses, hut our experience has 
l)een that they do well in almost any good, rich land with a strong preference for soils of a 
heavy nature. 
Preparation for planting: Given that a suitable plot has been selected, we now come to 
the main essentials to success. 
The soil should be trenched or spaded to a depth of not less than 18 inches, breaking all 
lumps, removing all stones, etc. This operation complete, spread over it three or four inches of 
rotted manure. Spade in, and when thoroughly incorporated, rake the bed to final grade. 
Measure the distance apart plants are to he set, allowing two and one-half or three feet 
between them. At each designated point dig a hole 12 inches wide by 2 feet deep; place in the 
bottom 8 inches of well-rotted manure, preferably cow manure, if obtainable. Tread this firmly. 
On top of this put 6 inches of well prepared soil containing no manure whatever. Tread again 
to firm the layer of soil on manure. The remaining portion of the unfilled hole will now he 
ready to receive the plant. 
If the Roses are in a dormant or hare-root condition, place them in the holes and carefully 
s|)read out the roots in as nearly natural position as possible, gradually filling in with fresh soil 
containing no manure. When the hole is completely filled, tread the soil around the plant as 
firmly as possible. Make a basin immediately surrounding the plant and water thoroughly. 
Depth of planting: The accompanying illustration shows a fair sample of one of onr 
strong 2-year-old budded Ro.se hushes. B denotes the point of insertion of the hud in the original 
wild stock. A, the depth that the plant should be set in the soil. C indicates the splendid root 
action to he noted in the class of Roses which we send out. The point A is about 3 inches above 
point B. Point A is the proper height the soil should reach when the plant is finally set. 
Watering: With the exception of an occasional syringing to clean the foliage of dust. 
Roses should have little or no water overhead. Irrigation either by means of shallow trenches 
running along the rows or by an individual basin around each plant are the best methods. 
This {)uts the water where it belongs ... at the roots. , 
In sections where there is small rainfall the plants should he kept moist during their entire 
growing season. After each watering a liberal hut shallow cultivation of the soil will prove 
highly beneficial and will tend to retain the moisture in the ground. 
It is almost imjiossihle to make any hard-and fast rule in regard to the frequency of water¬ 
ing, as at times the heat and consequent evaporation is greater than at others. The principal 
thing to take note of is to see that the soil is continually moist during the flowering or growing 
period. A mulch of well-rotted manure, 2 or 3 inches deep over the entire surface of the bed, 
will help check evaporation, saving water. 
Pruning: The principal pruning should he done either just after the plants have finished 
.Summer growth—say in the months of November or December, or in very cold sections just 
before the sap begins to rise in the Spring. - 
It is difficult to give the exact method of pruning, but it might he summed up as follows: 
Remove all small twiggy growth, pruning hack to strong, well-ripened canes which are 
well furnished with healthy, big dormant eyes. As a general thing, the entire top of the plant 
•diould be removed. The engraving shows a properly pruned Hybrid-Tea, a 2-year-old plant. 
As the. plant ages it naturally will support more canes and should he pruned accordingly. Very 
drastic-pruning is advised for exhibition blooms only. 
Insects and Diseases: Roses are affected with various diseases, pests, etc., hut we will 
only treat of two which give the most trouble. The.se are aphis, or green 
lly, and mildew. 
Foi- the first use a strong solution of tobacco water, administered on 
a quiet evening with a spray i)um[i. 
For the second, take two ounces of slaked lime, mix with one pound 
sulphur, i)lace in jiot, add two gallons of water; boil for three or four 
minutes. The suljihur, insoluble in water alone, is di.ssnlved through the 
action of the lime, forming a sulphurous solution. When cold, dilute 
this one part to five parts water and spray affected plants thoroughly. 
Vi'inter Gare: In sections where freezing conditions are severe, 
Roses of all classes can he safely wintered in the open ground by hilling 
up around the plants with soil as far as possible and placing on top of 
this a heavy mulching of dry leaves, straw or other similar litter. 
Remove same as soon as danger of frost is over. With these details 
taker care of even the tenderest lea Rose can he wintered in the harsh¬ 
est Fasten) climate, 'i'le hilling iqi of the i)lants or the covering with 
litter i- (juite unnece^fsary where heavy freezing conditions do not prevail. 
Rriiue<i hy MOHKIS.SEl BKOS., Printvrs^ I-.«s Angeles 
