J. W. JONES & SON, FRANKLIN, VIRGINIA 
5 
or 500 pounds will not hurt them, provided it is well scattered and then culti¬ 
vated in before setting the plants. We recommend raw or dissolved bone 
meal as the best for strawberries. 
SETTING PLANTS 
There are many methods of setting the plants. No particular method 
has advantage over another except in the saving of labor. The important 
thing is to get your plants in the ground the same depth as they grew in the 
original bed, and to pack the dirt firmly around the roots. This done there 
is little choice as to the method of doing it. The cultivation is always im¬ 
portant and should be started as soon as the planting is finished. If one 
will take the trouble to destroy all grass and weeds the year previous on land 
to be planted to strawberries, it will be found to pay handsomely, as the 
seeds thus destroyed will not be in your berry beds to plague the grower 
and run up the cost of hoeing. Keep them clean until frost, hoe shallow 
so as not to disturb the roots, and success is assured. One other bit of advice: 
remove all blossoms from the young plants. It will pay well in increased 
health and vigor. 
FALL PLOWING FOR GRUB WORMS 
One of the most destructive pests known to berry growers is the June 
Bug larvae, or common grub worm. Use land that has grown cultivated crops 
for two years previous to setting in plants, and then plow as late in the fall 
as possible. This hardly ever fails to control them. 
DISEASES 
Strawberries do not suffer from as many ailments as do most of the other 
fruits. Perhaps the worst of all foes are the “leaf spot” and “leaf scorch.” 
The first is rarely very serious, but the “scorch” may be so serious as to kill 
the entire foliage and sometimes the plants. The accepted remedy is to spray 
with Bordeaux Mixture as soon as the leaves attain any size in the Spring 
and to repeat as often as necessary so as to keep the leaves healthy until 
the crop is picked. 
THINNING 
For best results beds should never be too thickly set with plants. It 
has always been observed that the plants along the edges bear the most 
berries and of the best size, but it has now been determined that for the 
largest crop each plant should have at least thirty six square inches of space, 
that is they should be six inches apart in all directions. Obviously it will be 
difficult to make such spacing exact, but in general such approximate room 
will be found to pay. It should be borne in mind that this must be done early 
so the plants will attain the larger growth the wider spacing will give them. 
Such attention will cost, but in the end it will pay. 
STRAWBERRIES AND LIME 
It has always been assumed that strawberries require an acid soil for 
best results. It is now definitely determined that this is no longer true, 
especially if the organic matter in the soil is low. A series of experiments 
conducted by the Virginia Truck Experiment Station show that the yield is 
increased five times in a soil that has the proper lime content (pH 6. 2) over 
a soil very definitely acid (pH 4. 4 to pH 4. 6). Plants that were transplanted 
to the very acid soil did not grow well and many of them died after getting 
a slow start. Those that lived did not make the normal number of runners 
and their growth was greatly retarded. Further, those that lived and grew 
did not produce anywhere near a normal crop of berries the following season. 
Of course in the natural limestone sections, the probabilities are that no 
lime will ever be needed, but those who do not live in these favored localities 
will be wise in having their soil tested for acidity if the planting of strawber¬ 
ries is contemplated. It must be borne in mind that there is the danger of over 
liming which also reduces the yield, for that reason we strongly suggest that 
our customers get in touch with their State Experiment Stations and have 
the soil to be planted in berries analyzed. It will be possible to apply exactly 
the proper amount of lime for best results. If this scientific analysis is not 
possible for you, Mr. M. M. Parker, State Horticulturist in charge of these 
