So universally popular have glads become that growing them is a hobby 
with many and many societies promote their popularity. 
The advent of the thrips proved a stumbling block nearly ten years ago. 
We said then that thrips would be conquered and that nothing could stop Glads. 
That proved true. Today, August 11, we have a field of almost perfect 
fiowers in spite of recent very hot weather. If you don’t believe it come and see. 
It is easy to do as well. Plant your bulbs in the fall in the south so that 
they bloom early before thrips appear. If possible water with an overhead 
sprinkler for about 30 minutes every evening. Like all hoboes, thrips don’t 
like shower baths. They bother very little where rainfall is frequent and 
abundant when blooming. 
Sprinkling may be accomplished by a Skinner overhead pipe or a rotary 
sprinkler at end of hose. Use finer spray. Or install sprinklers like those 
used for lawn but on pipes elevated above tops of Glads. Skinner system is best. 
In the north plant Glads as early in spring as ground may be worked. 
When you plant, don’t plant any thrips. Many live over winter on the 
bulbs. Treat them this way. Dissolve 1 oz. powdered corrosive sublimate 
in 1 gallon of boiling water. When dissolved add it to 7 gal. of cold water. 
Use no metal container as corrosive sublimate attacks all metals and ruins the 
metal and the solution. Also keep arfimals and children away as it is deadly 
poison. 
A barrel, keg or crock is ideal for use. Soak the bulbs in this for 6 or 7 
hours. If you peel and clean the bulbs first, 4 hrs. are enough and the job is 
more thorough but the peeled bulbs must be planted soon. 
Naphthaline fiakes sprinkled lightly over bulbs in storage, then covered, 
with paper will kill most or all thrips. This injures the bulb if too much is 
used or left on too long. Best to uncover after three weeks. 
The corrosive sublimate treatment also eliminates bacteria that causes 
scab or rot. But it does not eliminate possibility of future infection of either. 
Our bulbs have been treated, no more is needed, but keep them away 
from other diseased bulbs or storage in infected place. Also clean up trash 
around garden where thrips may find protection over winter. If possible plant 
on new ground as far as possible from former plantings. 
But if thrips appear remember they are regular hoboes. They don’t like 
wet or cool weather nor to take a bath. Glads that bloom before May 1 here 
are almost sure to escape. The fall planted bulbs will escape them but sprinkle 
as added precaution. Then plant some in March, April and May for a succession 
of fiowers. These spring planted Glads must be overhead irrigated, 30 min. 
after sundown to avoid injuring fiowers, and daily. Thirty minutes means 
continuous spraying in one place. 
Any good soil will grow Glads, rich sandy loam preferred. If there is 
alkali in your soil that is bad. Nearly all members of Iris Family prefer mildly 
acid soil. Glads bulbs raised in alkaline soil will be scabby and poor. To 
overcome alkali mix ground peat with soil in the trench. Leave a depression 
on surface above bulbs and mulch with an inch or more of ground peat. Leaf 
mold, especially from beneath oak trees is acid and very good in place of peat. 
Do not use fresh animal manures. They contain ammonia, an alkali. 
Completely rotted and incorporated long in advance they improve the soil for 
Glads. Only one chemical fertilizer may be used. Nearly all leave an alkaline 
residue but Superphosphate is acid and is good. Apply a tablespoonful to each 
foot of row when glads are about 8" high. 
Plant large bulbs 4" deep, small 2", two rows staggered in one furrow, 
twice the diameter of bulbs apart. 
The following list includes the worlds best and most popular. 
Pidces. In this list as thruout this catalog, L. means large; M. means 
medium; S. means small. The large bulbs give longer stems and more of them. 
Medium size in most varieties give good tall spikes but fewer. Small bulbs of a 
few varieties (like Los Angeles) will give a fine tall spike but usually only a 
shorter spike and but one. In Glads L. means #1 and #2. M. is #3 and #4. 
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