Evergreens Produce Distinctive Effects 
T HE favorable climatic conditions, rich soil and long 
growing season which exist at the Neosho Nurseries 
promote the more rapid growth of Neosho Ever¬ 
greens. So when you buy your Evergreens from Neosho 
you get better developed trees—and you can count on 
them to do well for you. 
WHAT MAKES VALUE 
Since evergreens are furnished with a ball of earth 
wrapped in burlap, several transplantings with root 
prunings are necessary in the nursery to develop a mass 
of fibrous roots within the ball. Careful pruning of the 
tops is also required so that each specimen may be well 
shaped. Evergreens are offered for sale by height, but 
their value varies according to how well they have been 
grown and trained in the nursery. Obviously one ever¬ 
green will be worth more than another of the same va¬ 
riety and height. 
Neosho Evergreens are shapely, hardy 
specimens, carefully root pruned and bur- 
lapped with a good generous ball of earth to 
insure transplanting satisfactorily. 
Pfltzer's Juniper 
PINES 
Austrian Pine (Pinus Nigra) —50' to 
60'—Dark green foliage with needles -4 
inches long and borne in pairs. A rapid 
grower but retains its lower branches. 
Fine for specimens or screens. 
Mug'ho Pine (Pinus Montana Mug'hus) 
—1' to 3'—The only genuine dwarf 
pine. Needles short and stiff. Assumes 
a globular form very dense. Good in 
foreground of foundation plantings. 
Scotch Pine (Pinus Sylvestris) —50' to 
60'—Shorter and softer needles than 
Austrian. A rapid grower also, making 
it valuable for protective screens. 
BROADLEAF EVERGREENS 
Ahelia Gramliliora —2' to 4'—Leaves 
glossy green turning coppery red in 
fall. Blooms profusely from July to 
September with small white flowers 
blushed with pink. Holds foliage all 
winter in south. Not hardy north of 
Arkansas-Oklahoma. 
Cotoneaster Franchetti — 4' to 5' —- 
Gray-green foliage, arching branches, 
pink flowers, orange berries. Semi-ever¬ 
green. 
Cotoneaster Horizontalis— 2' to 3'—- 
Low spreading plants with small shiny 
leaves and bright berries that remain 
on branches well into winter. Very 
choice for rock gardens^ and fore¬ 
ground in foundation plantings. 
Julianne Barberry —A new hardy 
evergreen Barberry. An upright, slow- 
growing shrub with narrow glossy 
foliage which colors a deep bronze in 
winter. 
Nandina —A dwarf Jap plant with 
delicate foliage which colors a bril¬ 
liant orange-red in fall—clustered with 
bright red berries in autumn. Not 
hardy north of Neosho. 
Oregon Holly (Malionia Aquifolia) — 
2' to 4'—A beautiful evergreen shrub 
with smooth shining holly leaves, small 
bright yellow flower clusters in May 
and blue berries. The leaf color varies 
during year, assuming various shades 
of green with flecks of red and bronze. 
Will stand extreme cold. 
Euonymus Patens—4' to 5'—Ever¬ 
green shrub with orange-scarlet ber¬ 
ries. Hardy as far north as New York. 
Leatherleaf Viburnum —6' to S' — 
Evergreen shrub with large thick 
leaves, dark green and wrinkled with 
berries in fall—red changing to black. 
Hardy at Neosho. 
WHEN TO PLANT 
In this district—Southwest Missouri 
—the best time to plant is from Sep¬ 
tember 15th to December 1st and from 
about March 15th to June 1st. The time 
is not so important as the manner in 
which the planting is done and the 
conditions under which the planting is 
made. 
PLANTING-—If planting cannot be 
done at once, the trees should be placed 
where they will be protected from wind 
and sun and should be thoroughly 
watered. 
The holes should be dug several 
inches deeper and wider than the size 
of the ball. Pack good soil firmly in 
the bottom of the hole. Set the tree 
slightly deeper than it stood in the 
nursery. Loosen the burlap and roll it 
back from the top. Pack good soil firm¬ 
ly about the ball to within a few 
inches of the surface of the ground. 
Then pour in as much water as will 
soak away. Fill up the hole with loose 
dirt. 
CARE AFTER TRANSPLANTING— 
Cultivate the ground for about 18 
inches around the tree. Give the trees 
a thorough soaking- at intervals as 
needed rather than frequent sprinkling. 
Evergreens newly transplanted should 
have plenty of moisture before winter 
sets in and again during the dry sum¬ 
mer months. Well-rotted leaves, straw, 
hay or strawy-manure make a good 
mulch. 
FERTILIZERS -—- Fertilizer should 
never be placed in contact with the 
roots. Liquid manure applied several 
times in the spring has been found 
very satisfactory. Some have used a 
tablespoonful of Nitrate of Soda dis¬ 
solved in water early in the spring be¬ 
fore growth starts. 
PRUNING—A f t e r transplanting in 
their permanent location, the Pines, 
Spruces, Firs and Hemlocks require no 
pruning. When it is desired to keep 
Arborvitn.es and Junipers to a certain 
size or shape, they are clipped with a 
sharp pruning knife or pruning shears 
before the new growth starts in early 
spring. 
CONTROL OF IN SECTS—Bag worms 
can be controlled by spraying with iy 2 
lbs. of lead arsenate powder to 50 gal. 
water or the bags can be picked off by 
hand in the fall or early spring. For 
aphis or plant lice, use a 4% miscible 
oil or petroleum-soap solution in late 
autumn or before growth starts in the 
spring. During hot, dry summer 
weather the Red Spider multiplies very 
rapidly and causes the foliage to turn 
a rusty color. This insect is very small 
but its presence is sometimes indi¬ 
cated by very small white webs. Spray¬ 
ing with a strong stream of water will 
often eradicate them. 
INJURY FROM DOGS — Dogs some¬ 
times injure the lower branches, caus¬ 
ing the foliage to turn black. This can 
be prevented with a wire screen, but a 
planting of Japanese Barberry in front 
of the Evergreens is effective and 
usually does not spoil the appearance 
of the plantings. 
MOST IMPORTANT 
Evergreens are used extensively in 
Foundation plantings where wide over¬ 
hanging eaves often prevent their get¬ 
ting moisture from the natural rain¬ 
fall. Also concrete and rock founda¬ 
tions adjoining have a tendency to rob 
the adjoining soil of moisture. So be 
sure your evergreens are frequently 
watered if necessary, and bear in mind 
that since they are evergreen and 
never go dormant like other plants 
that they need the moisture 12 months 
out of the year. So it is just as impor¬ 
tant that you keep them well watered 
in the fall and winter. 
One reason Evergreens are more expensive than 
shrubs. This illustration shows how long it takes to 
grow an Evergreen correctly. 
If 
I YEAR OLD 
ONCE TRANSPLANTED 
READY TO SET OUT 
7 10 YEARS OLO 
