PROPER PLANTING 
Trees, shrubs, and flowers require immediate 
and careful attention for successful results in 
planting. They must not be exposed to the wind 
or sun before planting, and should be cultivated 
and watered after planting to assure quick estab¬ 
lishment. 
HANDLING UPON ARRIVAL 
Receive your stock without delay and plant just as soon 
as possible. Plants received in freezing weather should not 
be opened until they have been put in a cool but frost-proof 
cellar and gradually thawed out. The stock will not be in¬ 
jured if gradually thawed out in this way. 
Stock which seems somewhat dry upon opening, should 
be buried in wet soil for a day or so. This will quickly 
liven the stems and make them ready for planting. Small 
bundles may be placed in tubs of water for the same results. 
I£ possible plant at once. If weather conditions do not 
permit immediate planting, place bundles or boxes in a cool 
but frostproof cellar. Should planting be delayed more than 
one or two days, unpack stock and heel-in in a well-drained 
location. 
Spade and plow thoroughly and deeply, raking or harrow¬ 
ing the soil fine and leveling off to facilitate planting. Dig 
holes generously wide and deep to receive root system with¬ 
out crowding or cramping roots. Loosen the soil in the 
bottom of the hole so that the roots may grow “in” readily. 
Poor soil may be benefited by spreading manure in some¬ 
times in advance of planting. 
PRUNING BEFORE PLANTING 
Pruning stock at the time it is transplanted assures more 
rapid recovery, providing less heavy top to be supported 
by the roots which themselves are burdened with the task 
of re-establishing tiny feeding rootlets. Use a sharp knife 
or shears. 
Trees. Remove about one-third of the top from average 
heavy tops, by clipping branch ends and removing small 
branches and interfering limbs. Cut off frayed or bruised 
roots just above the point affected. Leave one branch or 
stem to develop into a leader. 
Shrubs. Thin out the tops of many branched shrubs, re¬ 
moving old wood, and cut back average plants about one- 
third. Hydrangeas should be cut back to the ground. Re¬ 
move frayed or damaged roots as directed above for Trees. 
Fruit Trees. Trim roots as advised for Trees above. Peach, 
Cherry, Apple, Pear and Plum stocks in branched sizes, 
should be pruned so that three to five branches, well placed 
about the trees, should remain. Leave a leader for develop¬ 
ing. One year grades, usually whips, should be topped to 
the desired heading out, usually from 12 to 30 inches. 
Raspberry, Blackberry, etc. Are usually supplied cut back. 
Tops should be removed to about 6 inches from ground when 
planted. 
Grapes. Cut back roots proportionately to development. 
Tops should be removed, leaving one stem with three to 
four buds. 
Roses. Cut roots as advised for trees and shrubs, remov¬ 
ing bruised and broken parts. Cut tops back to three to 
four buds on each stem. 
Privet Hedge. Cut tops back to four to six inches above 
the ground to insure dense base growth. Set slightly deeper 
than stocks stood in the nursery. 
ROSES 
Roses require thorough 
cultivation of the soil 
and are gross feeders, 
necessitating rich ground 
or heavy fertilizing for 
best results. Plant all 
graft-joints so that they 
are at least three inches 
below ground level to 
prevent the strong root 
system of the rose stock 
from sending up shoots 
which will smother the 
budded top variety. 
BULBS 
Spring blooming bulbs, such as tulips, narcissus, hya¬ 
cinths, etc., should have good garden soil with natural 
drainage. Sand added to heavy ground will greatly benefit 
bulbs. 
Cannas, Dahlias, Gladioli and Lilies require good garden 
soil, a sandy loam being productive of best results. Place 
lily bulbs slightly on their sides so that water may drain 
away and prevent rotting in wet seasons. 
PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS 
Set trees one or two inches deeper than they stood in the 
nursery, as shown by the collar or bark at top of roots. 
Shrubs should be set at the same depth or slightly deeper 
than in the nursery. Spread roots out naturally and work 
in pulverized soil about the roots, tramping firmly with the 
feet. If soil is dry, water weli before hole is filled with 
soil. Lastly, fill the hole level, but do not mound up, as this 
tends to shed water away from roots and holds back 
growth. Don’t tramp down the top soil, but leave loose to 
prevent baking and cracking. 
Evergreens should be set a trifle lower than they stood 
in the nursery. Dig the hole a foot larger than the ball of 
earth about the roots and fill in with good loamy soil, pack¬ 
ing firmly by tramping or settling by filling hole with 
water. Loosen burlap at top of ball and roll back or cut 
off, but don’t remove entire burlap covering. 
Perennials are best planted with trowels, dibbles, or 
similar hand tools. Remove badly injured or dried up 
leaves. Trim long straggling roots back and cut out bruised 
or damaged parts. Plant so that roots spread out or extend 
down naturally. Don’t crowd into small holes. Plants with 
crowns should have the crowns slightly below or at the 
surface of the ground. 
Grapes should be planted along the same lines as shrubs. 
They require rich soil for best results and a few bones 
placed in the bottom of the hole will provide rich feeding 
later on. Trim roots slightly and cut back tops well. 
Plant Rhubarb 3 feet apart with buds one inch below 
ground level; Asparagus one foot apart in furrows 6 inches 
deep. Fertilize Rhubarb with manure every year; also 
Asparagus when through cutting in June. 
Currants and Gooseberries should be set about 4 feet 
apart and cut back about one-half. Every year after fruit 
has been gathered trim off old wood and burn. Raspberries 
and Blackberries should be set 3 to 4 feet apart. After 
fruiting cut out old canes and burn, leaving a few vigorous 
new stems for the following year’s crop. 
HEELING-IN STOCK TEMPORARILY 
Dig a trench sufficiently deep and wide to receive roots 
and at least a third of the top without crowding or break¬ 
ing roots. Lean the stock bundles or trees at an angle to 
save extra digging. Fine soil should be used so that the 
roots can be packed well to prevent air-pockets and drying 
out. Water when the ground is dry and heap the soil well 
about the stems of the stock. If trees or shrubs are to be 
heeled-in over winter, they should be well covered and all 
packing material removed to prevent mice from nesting 
and damaging stock. 
AFTER CARE 
Frequent cultivation after planting will maintain a dust 
mulch on top of the soil to conserve moisture and continue 
growth. Hoeing rather shallow gives best results in this 
respect and keeps beds free from weeds and orderly in 
appearance. 
In dry spells, artificial watering is strongly advised. 
Don’t sprinkle. Water thoroughly. If a hose is used, re¬ 
move the nozzle and let the water soak into the ground 
until saturated down to the roots. No further water is 
needed for several days if this is followed. Watering in 
the evening or in early morning is best. 
Fertilizing in the fall acts as a winter mulch and enriches 
the soil for the next season’s showing. Manure should be 
applied on top of the soil. It may be spaded in when well- 
rotted, but should never be placed next to the roots of 
plants. 
Shrub beds and circles cut about trees look much better 
when trimmed up with a spade occasionally during the 
summer. Ragged edges about shrub areas and weedy beds ' 
destroy much of the beauty of plantings. 
