THE GARDEN MONTH 
JUNE. Make successive sowings of sweet corn, 
beans, carrots, beets, and other vegetables mentioned 
in planting calendar for June. (See 3d Cover page.) Con¬ 
tinue planting out seedlings of annual flowers; plant 
more gladiolus and dahlias. If you want to grow 
dahlias for the fall shows, the middle of June is the 
right time to plant. Buy plants in preference to roots; 
they will give the finest flowers. Make every spot in 
your garden produce two crops. Replant as soon as 
one crop is over. Set out celery plants for fall use. 
Cultivate rose-beds and spray with Black-Leaf 40 to 
destroy the aphis. Dust potatoes, squash, cucumbers, 
melons, etc., with Slug Shot. 
Sow seed of all the hardy flowers this month, and 
you will be certain of large plants which will stand the 
winter and bloom profusely next season. Cultivate 
thoroughly. 
JULY. Sow sweet corn for late crop; Golden Ban¬ 
tam can be sown up to July 10, for use in late Sep¬ 
tember and October. Make successive sowings of bush 
beans, carrots, beets, etc. (See planting calendar for 
July on 3d Cover page.) Set out celery, kale, cabbage, 
cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and rutabaga plants for 
fall and winter use. 
Old, wornout strawberry beds should be dug up and 
new plants set out. Use pot-grown plants which will 
bear a full crop next season; we have them in the best 
varieties. Write for special strawberry list. 
Cease cutting asparagus and allow the plants to 
grow so as to strengthen the crowns. Keep the beds 
free from weeds. Cultivate the garden religiously. 
Sow seed of all hardy flowers for next year’s blooming. 
Sow endive, lettuce, radish, etc., for fall and winter 
use. A planting of early peas the last week of July 
will bear a fair crop in late September and October. 
Weed and cultivate flower-beds and keep plants 
vigorous by removing all withered blooms; stimulate 
occasionally with fertilizer. Use Nitrophoska. 
AUGUST. Make a last sowing of early beets, 
carrots, and kohlrabi, and make successive plantings of 
beans, early peas, spinach, turnips, radishes, endive 
and corn salad. Celery plants may still be set out in the 
fore part of the month. Keep the soil moist around 
them and well cultivated. Celery is a great feeder and 
the soil must be rich. An occasional feeding with 
liquid manure is very good; apply it every two 
weeks. Blanch early celery as it requires it. 
Potatoes will now be ready for digging; dig only as 
you need them. Tubers intended for storing should be 
left in the ground until all the vines are dead, or nearly 
so. Evergreens can be planted with very good results. 
Spray their foliage every day and keep the ground wet 
until they have formed new roots. Pot-grown straw¬ 
berry plants should be set out now. They will bear a 
full crop of berries next year. In dry weather sprinkle 
the lawn to keep it green. Rose-beds should get another 
mulching with sheep manure or bone-meal; hoe it into 
the soil. If you have trouble with weeds in drives, 
walks, and gutters, an application of Atlacide Weed- 
Killer will destroy them promptly; but be careful not 
to touch flowers or other plants as it kills all vegetation. 
(See page 118.) 
Tomatoes should be carefully looked after. Remove 
all superfluous growth and trim off some of the large 
leaves that shade the fruit. Plant iris the end of 
August; it is the best time. 
SEPTEMBER. Rye, wheat, and buckwheat should 
be sown this month, either for crops or for plowing 
under. Continue to blanch celery; dig potatoes. 
Spinach, lettuce, radish, and corn salad can still be 
sown outdoors. Set out strawberry plants without 
delay. Beds planted in July and August should be 
carefully cultivated, and all runners removed from the 
plants as they form. Plant peonies this month; also 
iris. Seedlings of hardy plants that are strong enough 
may now be set out in the border. New lawns may be 
made and old ones reseeded. Sweet peas, stocks, snap¬ 
dragons, schizanthus, petunias, and calendulas can be 
sown now in the frame or greenhouse for plants to 
BY MONTH, continued 
bloom during the winter. Lilies and the Dutch bulbs 
should be potted up for winter forcing. Order Dutch 
bulbs, such as hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, etc., so that 
you may have them on hand for outdoor planting next 
month, as soon as the beds become empty. Write for 
our Bulb Book. Keep dahlias disbudded so as to get 
larger flow'ers. Make cuttings of geraniums and other 
tender plants the latter part of the month, root them 
in sand in the greenhouse or frame, and take in all 
tender plants that you wish to carry over winter in 
the house or conservatory. Spray the celery with 
Copper Solution to prevent rust and blight. (See page 
117 ») 
OCTOBER. Keep on banking your celery as needed. 
Early celery may now be ready for use if it is properly 
bleached. Hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, and all the fall 
bulbs that bloom in early spring should now be planted 
outdoors. Roses, shrubs, fruit trees and other nursery 
stock, and all the hardy flowering plants can be set out 
during this month. Sow lettuce, radishes, and other 
vegetables in the coldframe for use during the winter. 
Pansies, bellis, and forget-me-nots can also be started 
in the frame. Tie up a few heads of endive every week, 
but only as many as you can use up at a time. A few 
weeks will blanch them. The leaves make a delicious 
salad. 
Store cabbage in pits or coldframes the latter part 
of the month. Always put the head down; this will 
prevent the water from collecting among the leaves. 
Plant asparagus beds. Old rhubarb clumps can be 
divided and new ones set out. 
NOVEMBER. Manure the asparagus bed before 
winter sets in. Harvest all crops that you may still 
have in the garden, and store them away for the winter. 
Beets and carrots may be kept in the cellar. They 
should be covered with dry sand to prevent shriveling. 
Dig up celery stalks and stand them close together in a 
narrow trench, with the tops just level with the ground. 
Put a board roof over the trench and cover it with soil 
and manure. This will allow you to get at them easily 
after the ground is frozen. Manure around trees, 
shrubs, rose bushes, etc., and cover bulbs and all 
tender plants that need protection after the middle of 
the month. Salt hay is good material for protecting 
strawberry plants. Give attention to your coldframes; 
water and air freely on bright days. Clean up the 
garden; burn or plow under all rubbish. Collect sod, 
leaves, and grass clippings, put them in a pile, and 
mix some soil with them. This will make a splendid 
compost. Bulbs may yet be planted this month, any 
time before the ground freezes. Dig up or buy a few 
large clumps of rhubarb and witloof chicory roots; 
they are easily forced in your cellar. Dig up your 
gladiolus bulbs and canna and dahlia roots as soon as 
the frost has killed the plants. Store cannas and dahlias 
carefully, so they wall not rot or shrivel up. It is good 
to spade your garden and leave the soil in the rough 
over winter, so as to allow the frost to penetrate it. 
This will kill many of the insects and pulverize the soil 
thoroughly in the spring. 
DECEMBER. Ventilate the coldframe freely on 
bright days, to keep the plants as well hardened off as 
possible. Begin now to make your plans for next 
season’s work. Compare your notes and consider care¬ 
fully the matter of rotation; also the feeding of your 
crops. Your past experience should enable you to get 
even better results next year. Clean up the garden and 
premises. Cover bulb, rose, and asparagus beds, if you 
have not already done so. Look after all vegetables 
stored for the winter. See that they keep in good 
condition. Protect evergreens with pine boughs, to 
shade them from the winter sun. Rhododendrons 
should be similarly treated. Dig up and store all the 
parsnips and oyster plants that you will need for the 
winter. The rest can be left in the ground for early 
spring use as the frost improves the flavor. The 
leaves of kale and spinach can be cut at any time 
during the winter and used as greens, as can also 
brussels sprouts. Place all tools and implements under 
cover and oil all steel and iron parts to prevent rust. 
Conditions of Salp While we exercise the greatest care to send out only seeds of the very highest quality and ger- 
, , • 1 - -a there are too many elements of nature, or neglect on the part of the planter, not within 
our control, which may influence the ultimate results. It is for that reason that we can give no warranty, express or implied, as 
to the description, quality, productiveness or any other matter of any seeds, plants, or bulbs we sell; and we will not be in any 
way responsible for the crop. If the purchaser does not accept the goods on these terms, they are to be returned at once. 
618 Madison Avenue, New York City 
31 
