CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
The chrysanthemums 
marked (*) as well as 
others may be success¬ 
fully grown in 5 o»' 6 
inch pots. In order to 
liave them low and bushy 
they will need fretiuent 
pinching up until a few 
weeks before the buds 
appear. Pinch out the 
new growth allowing but 
one set of leaves above 
the recently formed 
crotch. After pinching 
new growth will start 
when again it shalll be 
Iiinched in the same 
way, this method will 
keep the plants low and 
bushy. Pinching shall 
start when the plants 
are about 8 inches tall. 
MJtS. KISSER 
10 DEPENDABLE HARDY GARDEN VARIETIES 
THE EVER POPULAR CAPRICE FAMILY 
15c ea.—10 for $1.25 
20c ea.—5 for 90c 
ALADDIN; Bronze, decorative. 
CRIMSON SPLENDOR; C rimson, single. 
DAZZLER; Cardinal red. Single. 
GANNA; Bright Pink, decorative. 
GRANNY SCOVILLE; Coral bronze. Decorative. 
JEAN CUMMINGS; White, decorative. 
JEAN TREADWAY; Pink with dark center, decorative. 
RED FLARE; Bright red, button. 
RUTH HATTON; Ivory white, decorative. 
VIVID; Rose-crimson, decorative. 
4 NEW CUSHION CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
30c ea.—4 for $1.00 
Resemble well grown Azaleas. Starting into bloom early 
and withstanding early frost. 
AMELIA; Bronze. 
AMELIA; Pink. 
AMELIA; Red. 
AMELIA; White. 
6 ORIGINAL KOREAN HYBRIDS 
20c ea.—6 for $1.00 
APOLLO; Bronze Red. 
CERES; Old Gold. 
DAPHNE; Pink. 
INNOCENCE; White to blush. 
MARS; Wine red. 
MERCURY; Old Rose and Salmon. 
5 EARLY DOUBLE KOREAN HYBRIDS 
30c ea.—5 for $1.25 
EMBER; Coral and orange. 
KING MIDAS; Golden. 
ROMANY; Reddish Bronze. 
THE MOOR; Amaranth Purple. 
THE URCHIN; Raspberry and gold. 
CAPRICE BUTLER; Deep Pink. 
CAPRICE LILAC; Deep Lilac. 
CAPRICE PURPLE; Solid Purple. 
CAPRICE WHITE; Pure White. 
CAPRICE YELLOW; Pure Yellow. 
SELECTING HARDY PLANTS 
(Cont’d from Page 1) 
posed that colors will not clash or be unequally distributed, 
variation in the blooming season must also be considered in 
order not to have some sections of the garden without some 
show of color at anytime. 
Planting—The roots may be planted as early in spring 
as the ground is pliable, soil not to be wet or soggy. Large 
clumps are not necessary, the smaller divisions or pot grown 
stock often showing more thrift and developing into shaplier 
plants than the old roots. 
Any soil moderately enriched with rotted manure, bone 
meal or sheep manure, dug deep and thoroughly mixed will 
be satisfactory. 
Spacing—In planting perennials, varieties that do not grow 
above 2 feet may be planted about 12 inches apart. Taller 
ones at an interval one half the ultimate height. Crowding 
or stingy planting to be avoided for perfect effect and healthy 
growth. 
Cultivation—Keep the soil well cultivated free from weeds 
and litter, except during drought and mulch of grass (lawn 
sweepings) will help retain moisture and keep the soil from 
baking. 
Training—Staking at an early date will adjust later defects 
and will overcome the tied up appearance of the plant that 
has been allowed to develop before given support. 
Tidiness—It is a necessity to have an attractive garden, 
removing dead flowers, withered leaves, broken twigs, etc., 
will well repay the time and attention given. 
Dividing—The early flowering types are generally dwarf 
and close rooted, these do not need to be disturbed for sev¬ 
eral years. The tall sorts of later summer and fall are fast 
growing, for general appearance and quality of bloom these 
should be taken up, divided, and a part only replanted at 
least every second year. 
Winter Protection—It will be necessary to protect some of 
the less hardy plants in the border. Not all of them 
require it. Iris, Phlox, Peonies and Oriental Poppies with¬ 
stand severe winters without protection. A light covei ing of 
straw, stable manure or leaves will protect the less haidy 
plants, after removing all stems and dead foliage during the 
last days of November or before severe cold weather sets in, 
apply this dressing, removing it gradually in the spring as 
the frost begins to leave the ground. 
5 
