Whatever type of squash is grown, they must be 
treated as extremely tender annuals, especially the 
winter and autumn varieties, which in some northern 
regions will ripen their fruits uncertainly, due to 
lack of heat and a short growing season. There is 
generally, except in the coldest regions, no difl&culty 
about raising summer squashes, but all sorts repay 
quick growth and plenty of heat. 
If you have space and prefer to grow the vine-like 
forms, the hills should be at least 8x8 feet apart, but 
if space requirements make the bush forms impera¬ 
tive, and they are far easier to grow, cultivate and 
harvest, the hills can be about 30 inches apart each 
way. 
It is useless to put squashes in a heavy, wet soil, 
for they grow too slowly in such places. It is better 
to select a warm sandy loam, upon which they thrive 
if it can be made rich enough. Being spaced so far 
apart, there is no use in a program of general soil en¬ 
richment for squashes, but every reason for concen¬ 
trating the fertilizer under the hills. A good plan is 
to dig out about 2 feet of indifferent soil and fill in 
with a half-and-half mixture of sandy loam and well- 
rotted manure. Or if this is lacking, mix about 1 
pound of a good complete commercial fertilizer with 
the soil. 
For the summer squashes, unless your soil warms 
up very slowly, the seed should be planted directly 
in the hills, 4 to 5 seed to a hill, which should ulti¬ 
mately be thinned to 2 or 3 plants, depending upon 
their vigor and ravages of cut worms. It will help 
greatly if Naphthalene Flakes are used at the time 
of planting. 
For the winter squashes or for any that have long, 
sprawling vines, it is better to start them in the hot¬ 
bed, as outlined above, if you live in a region with a 
short growing season. Otherwise, some of the late 
fruits will be caught by frost before maturity. In any 
case, the vine-like ones should be watched to see that 
all the growth does not run to vine and leaf at the 
expense of fruit. This is especially likely in rich 
soils or in one that gets extra top-dressing of fertil¬ 
izer. By keeping vines well pinched back it will de¬ 
velop better fruits. 
All Varieties Squash—Packet, 5c; oz., 15c; 
Yi lb., 35c, postpaid. 
WINTER VARIETIES 
Improved Hubbard Squash. Large and of 
warty Hubbard type. Shell dark green, hard, mod¬ 
erately warted. Flesh light orange, very dry and 
richly flavored. One of the best winter squashes. 
Banana Squash. One to two feet long. Flesh 
firm, orange yellow. Rind smooth, greyish green 
color. Excellent flavor and splendid keeping quali¬ 
ties. Packet, 5c. 
Golden Hubbard Squash. Same in size, shape 
and quality as the green Hubbard, except that it is 
bright red or golden color and somewhat earlier. 
Excellent keeper. Packet, 5c. 
Table Queen Squash. Small, dark green, acorn 
shape. Flesh rich yellow, dry, richly flavored. Me¬ 
dium early. A good keeper. Packet, 5c. 
Other Varieties of Winter Squashes: Boston 
Marrow, Mammoth Chili, Sibley or Pike’s Peak and 
Warty Hubbard. 
SUMMER VARIETIES 
Cocozelel or Italian Marrow. Skin dark green, 
becoming marbled with yellow at maturity. Flesh 
pale green, thick, firm and tender. Best when 5 to 6 
inches long. Packet, 5c. 
Early Summer Crookneck. Earlier and larger 
than ordinary crookneck. Skin yellow, thin, hard 
and warty. Flesh tender and of good quality. 
Packet, 5c 
White Bush Scallop. Early, medium size, some¬ 
what flattened with creamy white skin. Flesh milk 
white, firm and richly flavored. Packet, 5c. 
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