CACTUS CULTURE 
‘‘After you purchase your rare plants, learn 
how to care for them.” 
So much has been written in regard to the 
care of cacti that it would seem unnecessary 
to say more, however, there are a few cul¬ 
tural hints that I wish to stress, after many 
years experience with these most fascinating 
plants. If I repeat what has already been 
published it is because I do not wish you to 
lose those choice specimens. 
There are hardy species that will thrive 
when planted out in almost any climate. 
There are others, some of the most attractive, 
that must be grown inside, but under no 
circumstances, no matter how suitable the 
conditions, would I advise planting any seed¬ 
lings outside before they have reached a fair 
size. Also, when transplanting from inside 
to outside, always protect the plants from 
the strong sun for a few weeks until they 
become hardened. 
Now for the soil; for Cerei, Neomammil- 
larias, and Echinocacti use a porous soil com¬ 
posed of sharp, clean, sand; garden loam; 
and leaf mould. If possible add some hy¬ 
drated lime or, better, old plaster. Also a 
goodly portion of decomposed granite is ad¬ 
visable. Now even though many of the other 
succulents thrive in this mixture too, I think 
that, with a few exceptions, it is best to keep 
these plants in separate beds. 
In nearly all cases it seems that cacti, 
especially during the summer, like a partially 
shaded bed better than one in full glaring 
sunlight. An ideal condition would be to use 
deciduous shrubs or trees which would give 
summer shade and allow the winter sun. 
Since good drainage is essential for success¬ 
ful results, raised beds are by far the best. 
Now it seems that nearly all cacti like con¬ 
siderable moisture, much more than is ordi- 
narilly supposed. But here is the catch. 
Never water when the weather is cold, never 
permit the plants to be soaking wet for any 
length of time, but keep them moist during 
warm weather and especially while the plants 
are growing. I feel that more cacti plants 
are lost in cultivation because of lack of water 
rather than because of too much. 
When transplanting it is always better to 
trim back the roots, especially removing the 
long, “string-like” ones, which would prob¬ 
ably die anyway. If at any time the roots 
rot, cut them off, well back toward the base 
of the rootstalk, thoroughly dry the plant, 
and then re-root in moist sand. You will be 
surprised how quickly a fine, complete, new 
root system will grow, if the plants are kept 
in a warm place. 
Thus far, I have been speaking only about 
Cerei, Neomammillarias, and Echinocacti; 
Epiphyllums, for instance, need distinctly 
different culture—more moisture, and a richer 
soil, while Opuntias seem to thrive in almost 
any soil. The other succulents need various 
methods of care. Mesembrianthemums, here 
in Southern California seem to do better if 
kept dry in summer and moist during their 
growing period, winter. Aloes and Agaves 
enjoy the same soil and water conditions as 
Cerei, Echinocacti, and Neomammillarias, 
and many very effective plantings of these 
groups together, are seen here in the out¬ 
door gardens of the Southwest. For their 
winter blossoms add very effective color to 
the background of any gardens during this 
usually blossomless season. 
No plants can look, or be their best if in¬ 
fested with scale. There are two types, the 
circular, flat, tight sticking one which has a 
brown center. With a heavy infestation of 
this, the plant has a frosty appearance. This 
attacks all groups of cacti. There is a highly 
refined, good, oil spray which, used in the 
later afternoon, seems to keep this scamp 
under control. Then there is our old friend 
or rather enemy— Eriococcus coccineus, called 
“spiny mealy” by some. This is a bad pest 
and difficult to control and to kill, because 
of its waxy covering. Insect sprays must be 
used in very strong solution—so be cautious 
that you use one that will not burn your 
specimens. 
Pest Control—Guaranteed Results 
