DAHLIAbEL NURSERIES 
CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS 
u . * Grow 
-Potash Fedq 
>DAHUAS: 
The following directions are based upon years of 
experience and should be of value in solving some of 
your cultural problems. These suggestions should 
be changed to suit local requirements. However, we 
sincerely believe that the fundamental principles in¬ 
volved will apply throughout the country. 
SOIL PREPARATION 
The dahlia will grow and produce excellent results 
in a wide range of soils, other conditions being fav¬ 
orable. It is not so much a matter of soil type as it 
is conditioning. To grow exhibition blooms to per¬ 
fection, the nearer soil can be to ideal the better 
your results will be. Soil should contain enough 
clay to keep the fertility from leaching and also 
enough sand or stones to facilitate drainage. Fifty 
to sixty-five per cent sand is considered ideal. 
The use of peat moss broadcast and mixed well in¬ 
to the top-soil without the use of coarser material in 
the sub-soil is an advantage on heavy soil to open it 
up and on light soil it will conserve moisture and 
hold fertility. 
As soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, it 
may be further improved by a cover crop of oats 
and field peas. Or, better still, where winters are 
severe, sow rye in September or October. The green 
crop will do no harm during the late blooming sea¬ 
son, will winter over, and should be turned under 
about two weeks before planting. In New Jersey 
and farther south, rye can be sowed after digging 
roots. A cover crop will add organic matter, supply 
humus and further adjust soil conditions. If soil is 
poor, a top dressing of stable or chicken manure, 
after digging roots, in the fall or early winter will 
improve growth the following year. Chicken ma¬ 
nure, however, should be used very sparingly. 
A good time to work the soil, when no cover crop 
is planted, is about a month before planting, digging 
rather deep and thoroughly breaking up all lumps. 
Then rake the ground over about once a week to 
retain moisture. 
DRAINAGE. The primary factor in growing dah¬ 
lias is that of drainage, which in sandy soils is well 
taken care of, but in heavy soils a quantity of coarse 
coal ashes should be dug in and thoroughly mixed 
with the subsoil. Then coarse manure, straw, litter 
or peat moss should be mixed into the top-soil. The 
addition of a good quantity of coarse sand will help 
drainage and aeration wonderfully in compact or 
clayey soil. 
For soggy soil we might suggest ditching 18 or 
more inches deep where the row is to be planted, 
running the ditch with the slope if possible. Fill in 
with coarse ashes, clinkers or any coarse material 
that will not rot, keeping it below spading depth, 
then fill in top with soil mixed with peat moss, sand 
or the part of ashes about the size of corn or a little 
larger. When using peat moss, to each bale, add 4 
pounds of Pulverized Limestone. This will counter¬ 
act any acidity generated by the peat moss. 
See “Irrigation” for Tile Drainage System. 
LIMING. As a rule, the dahlia does well in a 
neutral to reasonably acid soil. Liming not only 
neutralizes acid, but makes the natural humus in the 
soil available as well as loosening heavy soil. With 
this in mind, lime applied at the rate of 1 pound to 
20 to 30 square feet is a safe practice on medium to 
heavy soil every 3 or 4 years. 
FERTILIZER 
Of the ten elements considered absolutely neces¬ 
sary to plant growth, we find nitrogen, phosphorus 
and potassium the prime essentials and the ones 
most lacking. 
Nitrogen stimulates the growth above ground, pro¬ 
ducing large bushes and flowers, but if used to ex¬ 
cess the flowers will be soft, wilting readily, and the 
bushes will be overgrown and lower the vitality of 
the roots. Nitrogen is found naturally in humus 
(decomposed vegetable matter or manure). It can 
best be supplied in animal matter, such as bone meal, 
tankage or manure. 
Phosphoric acid increases the root development, es¬ 
pecially the lateral and fibrous roots, strengthens the 
plant growth and gives substance to the bush and 
flowers. It also aids in ripening the roots. This ele¬ 
ment is found in bone meal, tankage and acid phos¬ 
phate, with a small amount available in manures. 
Potash is the balancing agent for nitrogen and 
phosphoric acid. It gives color to the flowers and 
foliage, and vigor and tone to the plant in general. 
It is an essential in starch formation and aids in the 
maturing of well-nourished roots. This is found in 
wood ashes, muriate or sulphate of potash. 
Fertilizer to be applied before planting. Scatter 
broadcast after spading and mix thoroughly into the 
top-soil to every 100 square feet of ground or to 
each 10 dahlia hills. 
5 lbs. raw bone meal, 
f 10 lbs. Unleached wood ashes, or 
( 1 lb. Muriate or sulphate of potash, not both. 
An additional 5 lbs. bone meal may be spaded in 
with or before the above application if ground is 
very poor. 
Fertilizer or top dressing to be applied about 
August 15. Scatter broadcast over ground, not clos¬ 
er than 6 inches nor more than 18 inches from the 
stalk and rake in, to every 10 hills, 
f 1 V 2 lbs. Raw bone flour, or 
[ 3 lbs. Raw or steamed bone meal, not both 
f 1 V 2 lbs. Animal tankage, or 
I 4 lbs. sheep manure, not both. 
f 5 lbs. Unleached wood ashes, or 
l V 2 lb. Muriate or sulphate of potash, not both. 
Manuring is not necessary, even in light soil, if 
the above formula is used, but an application of 
horse or cow manure or compost in the Fall is very 
good for soils lacking humus. This can be used as 
a top dressing for a cover crop, or dug in by shal¬ 
low spading in the Fall to help decomposition, then 
spaded in deep about two weeks before planting. 
Don’t use nitrate of soda as a fertilizer. Don’t try 
to grow exhibition blooms by forcing the life out cf 
your stock with sheep or any other manure and ex¬ 
pect your stock to do well for you the following year 
without balancing your plant food with phosphoric 
acid and potash. Exhibition blooms and good roots 
can be grown at the same time from green plants as 
well as from roots by following our cultural instruc¬ 
tions. 
PLANTING 
WHERE TO PLANT. In selecting a location for 
dahlias, it is essential to have a free circulation of air 
for healthy plant growth and to prevent mildew. 
Dahlias need direct sunlight at least 3 or 4 hours, 
preferably 6 to 7 hours, each day and should not be 
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