PLANT 
Grafted Vrooman Franquette Walnut Trees 
The culture of walnuts throughout the Pacific Northwest has reached such proportions that it 
bids fair to become one of the richest horticultural crops in this district. Having weathered the 
adversity of early experiments, in the way of planting, type of soils, varieties, and ways of market¬ 
ing, we feel safe in stating that the commercial planting of grafted walnuts throughout Oregon and 
Washington may well continue with safety. 
ADAPTABILITY: Oregon and Washington have proven to be particularly suited to the produc¬ 
tion of high quality Grafted Franquette Walnuts. Favorable soil conditions in the Northwest, quality 
of nuts secured, low priced soils available for the planting of walnuts, and low taxation are but a 
few of the factors which will eventually make the Northwest a leader in nut production. Co-operative 
marketing, proper distribution, and general advertising have already placed the Grafted Franquette 
foremost in its field. 
In the following paragraphs, we shall make an effort to establish the proper essentials for the 
successful planting and growing of a commercial walnut grove. 
VARIETY: After many years of experience in handling and growing grafted walnuts, we have 
discarded practically all varieties excepting the Vrooman Franquette for commercial plantings. 
This variety has proven to be the best yielder, highest quality, and most hardy tree for the North¬ 
west, blooming late enough to insure regular crops of finely filled nuts. This combination cannot be 
found in many sorts. 
PROPER SOIL: What is true of other commercial fruit trees of the Northwest is also true of the 
walnut. They do best in well-drained soil, clay loam and mellow soil of the valley prairie, upland 
hills, and lower land, where the soil has good texture and good drainage. Avoid soggy and all white 
land. 
DISTANCE PLANTED: This is a matter of choice, left to the planter as many successful walnut 
planters vary on this. It is a matter to be decided by each individual planter. Plantings are being 
made from 40 to 60 feet apart, but probably the best and most used distance, where walnuts are set 
alone and without fillers, is 40x60 feet. 
FILLERS USED: To make the land work to full capacity, where grafted walnuts are planted a 
long distance apart, we suggest the use of some good filler, and where location, soil, etc., are suited, 
the following fruit and nut trees are often used with success, bringing good dividends to the grower 
from the third to the fifth year. Peaches, pears, filberts and Montmorency large sour cherries have 
proven in the past to be very profitable where interset with grafted walnuts. 
CROPS GROWN BETWEEN ROWS: To bring in a revenue, while the orchard is young and a 
non-producer, intercropping can be practiced with walnuts, where planted alone, and as well where 
planted with any other crop. Any cultivated crop can be grown for four years at least, and in some 
cases longer, such as potatoes, berries, beans, corn, strawberries, etc. In using a cultivated crop, 
your orchard is properly worked, which is very necessary to trees, and at the same time it is paying 
to you, and you are not at an expense, such as clean cultivation would entail, where no crops are 
grown. At the time the orchard begins to bear, or has produced a good growth, all intercropping 
should be stopped, and clean cultivation given to the orchard. 
CULTIVATION: Walnuts should, the same as all other fruit trees, receive the necessary culti¬ 
vation; either clean cultivation should be given, or intercropping practiced. Uncultivated crops, such 
as grain, hay, etc., can be grown, by leaving a strip of several feet along each side of tree rows, and 
the same to be kept cultivated. We, however, do not recommend this; they will do well, yet not so 
well as where the entire ground is worked; for in this country it is very necessary that we conserve 
all moisture possible for the benefit of the orchard. 
For the young planted grafted walnuts we suggest thorough hoeing be given them at least three 
times each season. It is well to do this at intervals of about three weeks, starting in the middle of 
May and carrying on into the summer. 
HOW TO PLANT: In setting walnuts, the hole should be dug roomy enough to receive roots, 
without crowding, and should be set about two inches deeper than where they stood in the nursery 
row. Top soil should be put in first and the dirt gently firmed as it is being put in (do not ram nor 
pound dirt in), and see that roots are imbedded in a natural way, and not crowded. We contend that 
a hole made good and roomy enough so as to receive the tree in good shape without crowding, is 
better, for we believe that by having the hole right in size, about 3 by 3 feet, trees make a better 
start the first year, and are not so liable to dry out. In pruning the roots when setting, they should 
be given each one a clean cut at ends with a sharp knife; this also applies to the tap root. There is 
nothing technical about setting trees; only necessary to use good judgment. 
20 
Our Nut Trees Have Vigorous Branched Roots 
