PLANTING DIRECTIONS 
IMPORTANT—Open your package of roots immediately 
when they arrive. Plant as soon as possible but if you 
have to wait a few days, either keep moist in open box 
in cool cellar, or better yet, bury in garden. 
Plant Peonies in good, well drained soil, in full sun if 
possible, and away from trees, buildings, etc. Do not plant 
where a peony has been before, unless all old soil is taken 
out and replaced with fresh. Plant 3 to 4 feet apart; set so 
that the eyes point upward and are 2 to 3 inches below the 
top of ground (very important). Give each root 2 quarts 
of water when planted, and then make a 6 inch mound of 
dirt above ground level to prevent heaving, scrape mound 
away late next spring. 
In northern states, a mulch the first winter is advisable. 
If soil is good, use no fertilizer when planting. Never 
put fertilizer in hole with the root, use it as a top dressing, 
keep it away from stems. 
Fall is the natural planting time for Peonies. (After 
Sept. 1st and before Nov. 1st if possible). Spring planting 
is possible but is not recommended. Never move an old 
clump without dividing it. Never dig out a piece of a 
clump with a spade. This invites decay in the part left. 
Peonies do not need to be divided and re-set so long as 
they bloom well, unless increase is desired. For increase, 
divide at 3, 4 or 5 years, in the fall. 
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
Peonies need their full space of 3 to 4 feet in all direc¬ 
tions. Do not crowd smaller perennials among them unless 
extra room is given. Only shallow cultivation is needed, 
to keep down weeds and grass. Use fertilizers sparingly, 
bone meal one year, hard wood ashes the next, two handfuls 
per large plant worked in topsoil six inches from the 
stems. The use of animal fertilizer is dangerous, as the 
bacteria of decay which makes it valuable, may also in 
time attack the Peony root and cause a damaging rot. The 
use of balanced commercial fertilizers is not recommended 
as a general practice, as they contain too much nitrogen. 
If soil is naturally very poor, sandy or gravelly, commer¬ 
cial fertilizer may be used sparingly, taking care to apply 
it when ground is wet, and watering enough to prevent 
burning. Keep it away from the stems. 
Watering during dry summers, and just before blooming 
is beneficial. Give a thorough soaking with two gallons or 
more of water once every week or ten days, not oftener. 
Daily watering or sprinkling is injurious. After October 
1st, cut off all foliage close to the ground, and burn at once. 
This is the best preventive measure against blight, and 
usually the only one necessary. Should blight appear in 
spring, before blooming, pinch out and burn all diseased 
tissue at once, and spray with weak Bordeaux, in propor¬ 
tions of one pound of bluestone and one half pound of 
hydrated lime to 50 gallons of water. To obtain large 
blooms, remove all side buds when they are the size of small 
hazelnuts. To obtain a fine cluster, pinch out the large 
center bud. Blooms cut before half open and brought in¬ 
doors will show finer color and last longer than blooms left 
on the plant or cut when fully open. Ants do no damage ex¬ 
cept to carry blight (if present) or if very numerous. Find 
their nests and poison or scald them out. 
A ten foot length of two inch diamond mesh chicken wire, 
two feet high, looped loosely about the plant just before 
blooming, makes an unequalled support, and is inexpensive. 
It can be removed immediately the bloom is done. Most 
Peony supports are too small, squeeze the foliage too close, 
and invite blight. 
A standard 3 to 5 eye division is the best size to plant. 
Do not expect heavy bloom the first two years, but third 
