FLOWER CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
SOWING ANNUALS 
All annuals can be sown in the garden in May 
when the ground is warm, either in a seed-bed or 
directly where they are to grow. There are some, 
such as Poppies, Eschscholtzia, Mignonette, Centau- 
rea, etc., which, on account of lack of fibrous roots, 
cannot be transplanted without setback. These 
should be sown, either broadcast or in rows, in the 
location desired. Most annuals, however, benefit by 
being transplanted so as to develop a better root- 
system. These are better started in a cold-frame 
on a prepared seed-bed deeply dug and finely sifted. 
Most fiower seeds are small and should be covered 
with only about Vs inch of soil; the very fine seeds 
are simply pressed into the soil. Water carefully, 
so as not to wash the seed out, and keep the soil 
moist. On warm, sunny days some shade should be 
given. When the seedlings are large enough to 
handle, they can be transplanted 1 inch apart into 
another seed-bed, or if they are not too close to¬ 
gether, they may be left in the original bed until 
large enough to transplant into permanent places. 
Always remember that flowers need good soil, an 
open sunny situation, and sufficient space between 
the plants. 
STARTING SEEDS IN HOTBEDS OR BOXES 
Many annuals, such as Snapdragons, Stocks, Asters, 
Carnations, Cockscomb, Cosmos, Dahlias, Pinks, 
Heliotrope, Lobelia, Pansies, Petunias, Phlox, Sal- 
piglossis. Salvia, Vinca, Verbenea, if sown outside 
do not bloom until quite late in the summer, but 
you can have them early if you sow the seed in the 
hotbed. March is about the best time except for 
Lobelias, and Stocks, which can be started in Feb¬ 
ruary. Sow either directly in the hotbed in shallow 
drills or in pans or boxes. The soil should be light, 
finely sifted, and well watered. Scatter seeds evenly, 
not too thinly. After sowing press the soil down 
with a flat board and cover with newspaper to 
prevent too rapid evaporation. This covering must 
be removed as soon as the seedlings are up. Always 
water through a fine rose, and only when neces¬ 
sary, with tepid water and as much as possible in 
the forenoon or midday on bright sunny days. 
When seedlings have four leaves, transplant in 
similar boxes 1 inch apart or singly into small 
nots, shifting into larger ones if necessary. Ven¬ 
tilate according to the weather and gradually 
harden the plants, setting them out when all dan¬ 
ger of frost is past and the soil is warm. Cultivate 
frequently and stimulate plant growth by applying 
a top dressing of cow manure or bone meal to the 
soil at frequent intervals. Keep seed-pods removed; 
never allow withered flowers to remain on the 
plants if you want them to bloom all season. 
HOW TO GROW PERENNIALS 
Perennials will bloom the second year from seed 
and are permanent thereafter. Most of them are so 
hardy that they do not require protection during 
winter. We find among them some of our most 
beautiful cut-flowers and many of the old-fashioned 
favorites. A hardy border is a continual source of 
joy; from earliest spring to late autumn it will be 
resplendent with color. Once established, such bor¬ 
ders need no other attention than to be kept free 
from weeds and to be given an occasional top-dres¬ 
sing with fertilizer. 
WHEN TO SOW PERENNIALS 
Many of the hardy flowers will bloom the first 
year from seed if sown in the hotbed in February 
or March. Outdoors they may be sown any time 
from May 1st to August. A coldframe is an ideal 
place, but, if you have no coldframe, perpare a 
seed-bed of finely sifted light soil, made rich by 
adding and mixing with it cow manure or bone- 
meal. Sow the seed in shallow drills or squares of 
suitable size, partitioned off with laths; cover % 
inch or more, according to the size of the seed—the 
very fine ones should only be pressed into the soil 
with a flat board—water gently but thoroughly 
and do not allow the soil to become dry while the 
seed is in process of germination, for as soon as 
the seed has sprouted and until it becomes a plant 
with roots, its life depends entirely on soil-mois¬ 
ture. Seed-beds must be shaded from the sun in 
summer and carefully watched and watered until 
the plants have made from four to five leaves. 
Most hardy flower seeds germinate in from eight to 
fourteen days, though some take a month or more, 
so do not become impatient. If seedlings come up 
too thick, pull out some and transplant elsewhere 
in boxes or other seed-beds, and when the plants 
are large enough set them out in their permanent 
places. This should not be done later than October 
1st, in order to allow sufficient time for them to 
take firm root before frost. Cover with leaves or 
salt hay, applied after the ground is frozen. 
For Cut Flowers 
Agrostemma 
Anchusa 
Antirrhinum 
Arctotis 
Calendula 
Calliopsis 
Candytuft 
Carnation 
Centaurea 
Chrysanthemum 
Clarkia 
Cosmos 
Coreopsis 
Dahlia 
Delphinium 
Didiscus 
Gaillardia 
Gladiolus 
Gypsophila 
Helichrysum 
Lupin 
Marigold 
Nasturtium 
FLOWERS GROUPED FOR SPECIAL USES 
Nigella 
Pyrethrum roseum 
Salpiglossis 
Scabiosa 
Schizanthus 
Shasta Daisy 
Sweet Pea 
Zinnia 
For Semi-Shade 
Balsam 
Campanula 
Centaurea 
Clarkia 
Godetia 
Lupin 
Mignonette 
For Late Bloom 
Alyssum, Sweet 
Aster 
Calendula 
Celosia 
Cosmos 
Dahlia 
Gaillardia 
Globe Amaranth 
Hunnemania 
Scabiosa 
Marigold 
Salvia 
Vinca 
Zinnia 
For Withstanding 
Drought 
Alyssum 
Ageratum 
Arctotis 
Brachycome 
Calliopsis 
Candytuft 
Cosmos 
Dimorphotheca 
Euphorbia 
Four-o'clock 
Humulus japonicus 
Lavender 
Lupins 
Petunia 
Portulaca 
Statice 
Sunflower 
Tithonia 
Verbena 
Vinca 
Zinnia 
For Window Boxes 
Ageratum 
Begonia 
Geranium 
Heliotrope 
Lantana 
Lobelia, Annuals 
Morning Glory 
Nasturtium, Dwarf 
Petunia 
Phlox drummondi 
Verbena 
For Rock Gardens 
Alyssum, Sweet 
Brachycome 
Dimorphotheca 
Lobelia, Annuals 
Phlox drummondi 
Portulaca 
Schizanthus 
Statice 
Verbena 
WILSON’S SEEDS 
16 
MONTCLAIR, N. J. 
