/S THE T/ME TO SET 
STRAWBERRY 
PLANTS 
Buntings' - First* Strawberry Growers in This Section, 
Says Mr. G. E. Bunting 
We are growers of good strawberry plants, backed by forty-two years’ experience as 
commercial growers, having grown strawberries for marketing purposes at least twenty 
years before entering the nursery business. Those in charge of this business now are 
the second and third generation of our family, the first generation being the first to grow strawberries in this 
section of the country. During this period of time we have had much experience in strawberry culture, and any 
information that we have is yours for the asking. 
Q>UMA/inxf BbiawbeWii&i PnxdrfaJrLf, 
PLANTING TIME 
Northern States—April and Early May. 
Central States—March and April. 
Southern States—February and March. 
Each year we are surprised that so many people think 
you can postpone setting Strawberry plants during 
spring months, expecting to make up lost time by set' 
ting them in the summer or early fall; it cannot be done 
successfully. Early spring is the ideal time to set Straw¬ 
berry plants, depending upon your locality, just as soon 
as the weather permits preparing the ground. In the 
southern states we recommend February and March; in 
the central states, March and April; in the northern 
states, April or as early in May as possible. Be sure to 
allow enough time to receive plants when ready for 
them. You, when stopping to think the thing through, 
will realize it requires some time for your order to reach 
the nursery after it has been placed in the mails, and 
it’s true the nurseryman—while thoroughly organized 
to handle all business received promptly—has disap¬ 
pointments such as weather conditions, etc., which hold 
up digging and packing of plants. Generally speaking 
you are safe in judging that plants will be shipped in 
about two to three days after your order is received. 
Then, in addition to this, allow ample time for them 
to reach you. 
Soil Preparation 
Versus Plant Fertilizer 
Prepare soil same as for truck or garden crops. Lay 
out rows, usually 3 feet 6 inches to 3 feet 10 inches 
apart; set plants about 15 inches apart in the row. Do 
not use commercial fertilizer at the roots. Ground ani¬ 
mal bone is fine to use at the roots; however, it should 
be thoroughly mixed with the soil in the bottom of the 
furrow before the row is made up. The spreading of 
good barnyard manure on the land before plowing is 
fine, and always profitable. • Should your soil be very 
fertile, then we do not recommend using any type of 
fertilizer when planting. Potash at the rate of ten 
pounds to a hundred yards of row space, applied during 
the month of September, will have its effect on the 
quality of the fruit the following season. It makes it 
firm, and gives it a fine, waxy appearance, both of 
which are necessary for the fruit to command best 
prices in the market. We recommend applying potash 
as outlined above, and consider it the secret of success 
in commercial Strawberry culture. During very early 
spring, or we’ll say from four to eight weeks before 
growth starts, a good grade of commercial fertilizer 
carrying an analysis of say 5 per cent ammonia, 6 to 
8 per cent phosphoric acid and 10 per cent potash 
should be broadcast on the row of plants at the rate of 
fifteen pounds per hundred yards of row space. 
When making the September application of potash 
as referred to above, it should not be thrown directly 
on the foliage; instead, carefully broadcast along each 
side of the row of plants, and immediately cultivated 
in. It is well to select a day without much wind, and 
with a dry atmosphere to avoid burning the plants. 
Cultivation 
Keep Rows Free of Vegetation 
Soon after plants are set in the spring, cultivation 
should begin. Keep rows free of vegetation during the 
entire summer months, and to do this successfully some 
hand work is necessary, also the use of a hoe at inter¬ 
vals during the entire growing season. 
Best Results When Free from 
Weeds, Etc. 
The production of a field of Strawberry plants for 
fruiting purposes can be much less expensive if the 
location for planting is made by selecting a plot of soil 
which is free as possible from weed and grass seeds. 
Should you have a plot of land which you contemplate 
setting to Strawberries, you should keep the crop free 
from vegetation or as nearly so as possible during the 
year previous. Or, if the land has been lying idle, 
plow late in the summer before the weeds and grass 
develop seed to maturity, thus eliminating a crop of 
weeds and grass the next season, and at the same time 
you are making the soil more fertile by turning under 
a crop of green vegetation which is valuable in adding 
humus to the soil. This cover crop, whether it be 
weeds, grass or otherwise, when turned under green 
helps to retain moisture during the growing season. 
A cover crop which has been allowed to grow to 
maturity and dry out is of little benefit. It is well to 
be remembered that Strawberry plants are not like 
trees. They are small and do not root deeply in the 
soil; moisture is essential. Therefore, select a soil 
springy in nature, if possible, but be sure it is well 
drained. Heavy crops of Cow Peas, Soy Beans or 
any other crop including weeds, if plowed under in 
late summer while green will fill the soil with humus 
which makes it loose and porous; therefore, the more 
retentive of moisture. 
